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Ineia-Drousheia Area

Seasonality

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Description

This beautiful area on the west coast of Cyprus is a boulder jungle of mostly great quality sandstone with a potential of 500+ problems.

The bouldering experience in Ineia/Drousheia is second to none, with varied movement and style of problems on great rock. The height of boulders range from powerful low balls to monster highballs (many of which yet to be climbed) but the most common height is 3-5m. The boulders are generally well clustered together and access is mostly easy due to their close proximity to farmer's roads, with the exception of some short bush-wacking required for a few remote boulders.

The biggest difference to other areas in Europe is that you get great conditions all year round, in all but perhaps the hottest months of July and August. Even then however, due to the altitude (around 500m), this area is normally cooler than the rest of the island and you can escape the heat by climbing in the shade, early morning or late evening. The bouldering is set in a very peaceful and wild area of the island overlooking the Akamas Peninsula and Lara bay, with great views across the west and northwest coast of Cyprus, easy access to the beach and close proximity to traditional Cypriot villages of the Paphos region.

Access issues

No known access issues, the area is within the Akamas National Park. Please respect the nature and behave responsibly (do not litter, try to keep to established roads/trails as much as possible and practice the principle of leaving the place you visit better than it was before). This is to maintain the current free access to the boulders for everyone to enjoy.

As the rock quality in the area is excellent, we must as climbers do our best to ensure that the rock remains in the best condition possible for the future. As such please read the steps below that can be taken to ensure that we preserve the rock while climbing:

  1. Please don’t climb with wet or dirty shoes, as this damages the hardened outer layer of sandstone over time, exposing the soft layer underneath, which is prone to erosion. As such make sure to thoroughly clean your shoes before pulling on any problems using a rag, carpet etc.

  2. Don’t climb when the rock is wet or damp, and refrain from climbing the day after it has rained. The rock may appear dry on the outside however the inner layers absorb water which weakens the overall integrity of the rock, which can cause holds to break. A good rule of thumb: if the ground around the rock is still pretty wet then probably you shouldn’t climb.

  3. Don’t use wire brushes to clean the rock as this can be highly damaging to the rock, there may be occasions where some wire brushing may be necessary to remove heavy patches of lichen, but this should always be done as a last resort, with a light touch and a lot of care, so if you need to clean something opt for nylon or bristle brushes.

  4. While the farmers we have spoken to are perfectly fine with us climbing on their land this is dependent on us not disturbing or damaging any of their crops and trees, so please be extra careful of this when climbing on boulders located in farmland as this is the easiest and quickest way for us to lose access to these boulders.

  5. Don’t litter! (This should go without saying)

  6. No chipping, manufacturing, or modification of holds! (This too should also go without saying)

To summarize, the area around Inia and Droushia is an incredible area with unique rock and climbing, and the only one of its kind in Cyprus. As there is a limited amount of quality rock on the island if we all make sure to follow the above steps, we will be ensuring that the boulders and crags in the area will survive and that their quality will be maintained over the years for everyone to enjoy!

Ethic inherited from Cyprus

The local online source is: https://www.cyprusrocks.eu. Please consider donating to there bolting fund.

History

History timeline chart

The Climbing community in Cyprus is pretty small and you can imagine that the Bouldering community is even smaller. Over the years there has been sporadic Bouldering activity on the island, mainly seen as practice for roped climbing or at times when active climbers did not have a partner to climb routes but had time to kill. The development of bouldering in Cyprus mirrors the development of climbing in other larger nations, where the focus was initially on developing Sport and Trad climbing areas.

Most notable development was the organisation of some Bouldering Festivals in the 2010s (the last one being in 2015) by a group of some of the active core of climbers at the time, including members from the "Climber's Den" (a small cosy member’s wall in Nicosia which is still active today). Some participant names include: Andreas Parparinos, Andreas Theophanous, Agnes Phili, Marios Hadjipetris, Evagoras Xydas, Kyriakos Rossidis, and Xavier Otenblaaum, amongst others. The development however stayed confined to these festivals and never really took shape into establishing boulder problems or projecting harder boulder lines.

This changed when a strong and eager young bouldering specialist, Christos Sophocleous, decided to explore the boulders back home in the west of Cyprus in the area near Akamas National Park. Chris was nurtured in Glasgow's infamous urban bouldering scene at "Dumbarton rock", as well as the other prime bouldering venues of Scotland and mainland Europe, and who in a matter of 5 years of climbing experience, managed to redpoint "Sabotage" (Font 8A), one of Dave MacLeod's problems. So with abundant talent and power to spare, Chris started adding a few lines here and there on his infrequent short visits back home and establishing the first 6C-7B lines, before he managed to spark the attention of Demetris Papakyriacou, through his YouTube videos, who also lived and climbed in the UK but was also exploring many of the prime bouldering areas in the USA (Joshua Tree, Red Rock Canyon, Bishop and so on). Demetris on his short trips back home, with the help of Markos (local climber), then went on to repeat some of Chris’ lines, found new boulders and added a few lines in the 6s, to bring up the total tally to 50 problems.

The realisation was made that there was great undiscovered potential and quality in Ineia & Drousheia and eventually Demetris connected with Chris and together they started gathering all the info with the goal of eventually creating a topo and attracting more people into Bouldering.

Since Chris moved back to Cyprus permanently in 2021, with the sole focus to hunt for new boulders and establish new lines, the development saw a rapid increase, attracting more and more people to help with finding, cleaning and developing new boulders. Since then, a handful of people have been contributing new lines, adding a different taste and style of problems, helping to break the 200-mark. The most notable latest development was the establishing of Cyprus’ first proposed Font 7C /V9 (”Bahamut”), a steep line going through the roof of a small cave called “Stoma tou Drakou” (following its discovery by Florin Cimpoca). Most recently Cyprus also saw the send of "Pulp Friction", the first proposed 8A (V11) on the island and a sick-looking steep compression line. The hunt for new boulders of various styles and difficulty is still ongoing!

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Ineia area
102
277
21m
11
Droushia crag
11
31
22m
2
Kalami boulder
3
0
5m
Perdikes boulder
-
0
0
O Kyklopas boulder
-
0
0
Litsopetra boulder
-
0
0
Koudoumeni boulder
-
0
0
Asprosidhia boulder
-
0
0
To Diedro boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
Leaning Bloc boulder
-
0
0
O Parperis boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
-
0
0
Yin boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
Yang boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
O Krimmenos boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
-
0
0
O Erimitis boulder
-
0
0
Persefone boulder
-
0
0
UFO boulder
-
0
0
Koratgi boulder
-
0
0
Tsunami boulder
-
0
0
Kerveros boulder
-
0
0
Triangle boulder
-
0
0
Pikramygdalo boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
-
0
0
Volatzies boulder
-
0
0
Secret Garden boulder
-
0
0
Arkham boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
Skepasti boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
Epikalipsi boulder
-
0
0
Titanas boulder
-
0
0
The Gymnasium boulder
-
0
0
Inferno boulder
-
0
0
Pulp Friction boulder
-
0
0
Jumbo boulder
-
0
0
-
0
0
Ypovryhio boulder
-
0
0
The Overlook boulder
-
0
0
The Pope boulder
-
0
0
O Karaolos boulder
-
0
0
Didimoi boulder
-
0
0

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