Ascents in Middle East

Nice crimpy, tricky.

Going second bold reachy but real crux was two Gaston stand up for me . Going to anchor was tricky and fun .

Till last two bolt super nice 6c, 6c+( dynamic moves). Last two bolts have tricky foots and sloppy crimp holds. I couldnt find nice foot for anchor clip.So last two bolt and anchor are giving real 7b grade.

Great #warmup with small crimps, high feet and always something good in between.

Went after Berna's onsight, wow there is a lot of small weird gastons and smeary feet

A lot of interesting moves in 2nd part, even though don't think that it is 5c, more like 6a.

Crack

Interesting sequence in the middle.

Mono!

Good for warmup

40 minutes rest and a good burn, clipped after the crux slightly differently but managed the under correctly, very nice - - now it's time for Can baba...

Warmed up on the hangboard and climbed the first 6 bolts of the route as warm-up, then gave it a burn. Very nice, and made it to the 2-finger under at the last bolt where - for whatever reason - I put 3 fingers and couldn't pull hard enough to make the dead-point to the horn.

warmed up on the hangboard with the intention to do the first few bolts to finish it. Felt pretty good though and continued through the crux and past the other hard moves to fall off from teh good (but far) left hold - thgis arm wasn't ready

Second burn, really good, made it to the last bolt but put - in a fight to get high as fast as possioble - my left foot too high to make good use of the weirtd 2-finger under...

Reested a while and went again but tired - messed up after the crux. Soon

Moves are dead point go for me . I am waiting that my skin will be okay and I am trying this route and one slipping, my skin is going again . I gave up . It is nice route, hard one and so sharp.

2 crux. 2 try . I think 6c+

Warmed up on it again, man this is a $£" - decided to finiosh it later.

Oh man, fell off after the upper crux...

OK, this took way too long . I would give it a 6c+, it is small crimps and sidepulls all the way with maybe just half-rest. Very nice though.

After 3 warm-ups in th 6c I decided to give it a burn and woops, what a surprise. Climbed through the crux and up to clip 8 where I steamed out. Continued to the anchor and was equally surprised to have found a nicer beta that is less of a finger killer in the 2-finger under. Use the small horn above it to adjust the fingers as I climb higher, get the feet placed right and dead point to the bigger horn for the anchor clip.

Same story again but this time I actually looked at the beta so maybe next time...

Went to put up the draws again. Felt better but I reworked the beta of the crux to soemthing more reliable. Chnaged form left hand on the poor side crimp to gaston and take an intermediate to pump the left hand to the good hold. Works like a charm . The anchor move will kill me, rarely had something that hurts so badly but maybe it's doable on the go.