Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Cijevna canyon | |||||||
Disco | |||||||
5+ | Thats the way | ||||||
5+ | I Like It | ||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Cijevna canyon | |||||||
Grey left | |||||||
5b 5c | ★ No name yet | ★ Good | |||||
5+ 5 | Sarajevski Malboro | ||||||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Cijevna canyon | |||||||
Disco | |||||||
5 | Do the Husle | ||||||
5+ | Bell Bottom | ||||||
Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Autocamp Titograd | |||||||
6a | ★★ Hanuni | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Bi Mu Ga Rabota | 15m, 6 | |||||
7a | ★★ Nije Šija Nego Vrat | 20m | |||||
7a | ★★ Nije Šija Nego Vrat | 20m | |||||
6c | ★★★ Punoglavac | 15m | |||||
6b | ★★★ Vegan | 15m | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a ~6 | ★ Leptir | 20m | |||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Punoglavac | 15m | |||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Ringispil | 15m, 6 | |||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Ringispil | 15m, 6 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Molto bella | 15m | |||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a ~6 | ★ Leptir | 20m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan | 20m | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor A | |||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Vaskršnji | 9m | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor C | |||||||
6a+ | Tetkica | 10m | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Molto bella | 15m | |||||
6b | ★★ Sin City | 14m | |||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a ~6 | ★ Leptir | 20m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan | 20m | |||||
Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Kolašin | |||||||
Sector 2 (Scorpion Wall) | |||||||
3 | Miki Maus - with nikki | ||||||
3+ | ★★ Pinokio - with nikki | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Couple of fun easy routes here. Also did some slabby stuff further right which is not listed here
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Kolašin | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
5- ~5 | Dancing with Sega - with nikki | Don't Bother | |||||
Maybe I went off route but absolutely dogged this one, not normal for a 5!
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4+ Hard | ★★ Pop stone - with nikki | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Struggled finding the beta for the crux, made it very hard for the grade on first attempt!
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5+ | ★ Jedite kod Dzoa - with nikki | ★★★ Classic | |||||
All the fun is at the start
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6+ | ★★ Toplo pivo - with nikki | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
5b | ★★ Aj sa srećom | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor A | |||||||
6a Hard | ★★ Zub | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a Hard | ★★ Zvijuk | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan - with Ronja Barelli | 20m | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
5c | ★★ Ogi i Matija - with Ronja Barelli | 15m | |||||
6a | ★★ Puzavac - with Ronja Barelli | 14m | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor C | |||||||
5 | ★ Bubica - with Ronja Barelli | 10m | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor A | |||||||
6a | ★★ Zub - with Ronja Barelli | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Autocamp Titograd | |||||||
6a+ | Josip - with Ronja Barelli | 16m, 6 | |||||
6a | ★★ Hanuni - with Ronja Barelli | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor A | |||||||
6a | ★★ Zub | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a | ★★ Zvijuk | 12m, 5 | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
5b | ★★ Aj sa srećom | 20m | |||||
6a ~6 | ★ Leptir | 20m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan | 20m | |||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Kotor | |||||||
Sector above bus station | |||||||
6a | ★★ Sister savior | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6c | ★★★ All Tinder no sparks | ||||||
Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Pirlitor | |||||||
West Wall | |||||||
7b+ Hard | ★★ Buma | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Probably my hardest technical send, ever. Thank glob the bouldery crux is right off the deck. 2nd crux is the most committing, and third crux is technical slab/vert. 3 sessions. 1st go today.
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Concordia | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Everything felt 7a except the crux move off the sidepulls into the black undercling block. That felt pretty damn hard. Good technical route with a cool slab finish.
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Pirlitor | |||||||
West Wall | |||||||
5c Easy | ★★ Black Scorpion | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I thought this was by far the best of all the 5’s here.
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5b Easy | ★ Il Cetriolo | ★ Good | |||||
Basically just a bunch of 5.7 ledge-mantling with one 5.8 move or two.
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Pirlitor | |||||||
West Wall | |||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Snake free | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I thought this route was really nice. It’s a challenging onsight, with a lot of the key holds being sort of hidden. Being taller helps. It felt about 10a/b to me at 6’4”.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lojanik | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Durmitorsko ogledalo - with @sneškonja | 310m | |||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Pirlitor | |||||||
West Wall | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Falsa Partenza | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Vert/slab moves after halfway, all the holds are super small and requires a lot of balance and route-reading. There’s no resting on jugs anyways so hold onto your butts! Probably one of my hardest slab onsights. Felt closer to 7a for me but I’m 195 lbs.
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5b Hard | ★★ Red Berries | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The OS warm-downfelt sandbagged, I read it super poorly at the start and finish. A few days later came back for a repeat and it felt 5.9 with better beta.
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6b Easy | ★★ Trip in the Night | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Amazing climbing. Reminiscent of Ten Sleep, WY. Perfect moves on hard, compact rock with bomber pockets. Power endurance flake down low with a more technical sequence towards the top. One of my favorites in Montenegro.
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6a | ★ Brodo | ★ Good | |||||
Really cool flake lay-backing with a crimpy traversing crux at the last bolt.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Kolašin | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
9- ~9 | ★ Daniel Vincek | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Did every move except the third move, falling into the pocket LH with the RH on the bad crimp. From the LH pocket I took it to the top clean. This crux is nails hard and not worth trying unless your pulleys are healthy. With healthy fingers I could only try the crux moves 3-4 times before my tendons gave up. It all comes down to good foot placement and tendon strength. After the crux which felt like a 7c/+ move personally, it felt 7a+/b for a few bolts then once you are established on the arête feature it’s easy to anchors. I would not argue with 7b+ for the grade based on the crux alone.
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7+ ~8+ | ★★ F*** you with your thankyou | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Had to clean the absolute shit out of this to climb it. Was super dirty. Pretty hard technical moves. Maybe solid 6c+, or soft 7a. Hard onsight.
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5+ ~6 | ★ Jedite kod Dzoa | ★ Good | |||||
Weird. Maybe 5.10a
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6+ ~7- | ★★ Toplo pivo | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Felt 5.10b/c to me
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Otpisani | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Honestly happy to send on TR. First day on it felt impossible to link. Lots of texture and lost skin working the crux. Phew. Solid 12c.
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Kolašin | |||||||
Sector 2 (Scorpion Wall) | |||||||
8- ~8 | ★★★ Soo schweeer! | ||||||
Crap start, but amazing route. Felt 5.11c/d. The final sequence in the roof crack is phenomenal and cruisey on jugs. Crux is on the face.
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6 Easy | ★★ Powderfinger | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty chossy, one-move wonder getting over the starting bulge.
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6- ~6 | ★ Ruza | ★ Good | |||||
Way more fun that it looks. Solid 5.9/+
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7 | ★ The last ropejump | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Choss start, cool finish. The first move is easy off the deck but use a stick clip!
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Bar Old Town | |||||||
Stari Bar | |||||||
6c | ★★ Old Town | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Interesting and fun. A little bit of choss at the start but nothing crazy.
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7c Easy | ★★★ Wild Fig — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Taking the points while I can. Definitely soft though.
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7b+ | ★★ Die Barheit | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Ouch. There goes my pride.
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6a ~6+ | ★★ Puzavac | 14m | Crap | ||||
Pile of choss and weeds. Don't bother. 5.10b.
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Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Kotor | |||||||
Sector above bus station | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Buket cvijeca | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great!
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6c | ★★★ Pilot | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor C | |||||||
6b+ ~7+ | ★★★ Ћирилица | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The move at the last bolt almost spit me off. Blind reach. Bouldery and fun. Benchmark 5.11a
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6a | ★★ Puzavac | 14m | |||||
5c+ | ★ Bi Mu Ga Rabota | 15m, 6 | |||||
7a | ★★ Sin City ext. | ||||||
6b | ★★ Sin City | 14m | |||||
Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor C | |||||||
6c | ★★ American women | 15m | |||||
7a | ★★ Srce i ljubav | 15m | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Mark It Eight, Dude | 18m | |||||
Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Ringispil | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6b | ★★ Jesen | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun and powerful moves.
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6b+ ~7- | ★★★ Molto bella | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy, would be a hard warmup for sure. Clipping anchors is demanding. 5.10c.
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6b Hard | ★★★ Vegan | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good. Pumpy route with a few creative rest stances. Epic finish move that will pucker yer butthole
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a+ ~6+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice warmup. Best route in this sector. 5.10b/c.
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor A | |||||||
4b ~7- | ★★ 3Z | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sandbagged. Committing and hard for a warmup. 5.10b
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6b Hard | ★★ Tiha Dolina | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazingly technical route up some rock that looks poor but is actually great. The hardest move is pulling past the flake around bolt 3/4, then a few technical cruxes on smaller crimps with stemming. Feels exposed and awesome! The top is overgrown and a little dirty but has big holds. With more traffic this route will become really popular. You need at least a 70m for this climb. 5.10d.
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor C | |||||||
6c ~7+ | ★★ American women | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun! 5.11b
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7a ~8 | ★★ Srce i ljubav | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of those lines that looks like crap from the ground but climbs soooo gooood. Somehow felt easier than Proljeće since the beta was more straightforward. 5.11d.
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6c+ ~8- | ★ Proljeće | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Dirty, wandery, and hard to read. The holds beyond the tufa section are good but very sharp.
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6b+ ~7+ | ★ V.I.P. | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
A frustrating and hard tufa crux probably around V3/4 gets you over a bulge then it's still got a few weird moves to the top. 5.11a/b
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Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
6c ~7+ | ★★★ Punoglavac | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A classic tufa line. Will feel easy for those adept in the style but sandbagged for those who aren't (me). Right knee-pad was useful.
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5c ~5+ | ★★ Ogi i Matija | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warmup, but short. 5.9+
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor D | |||||||
7a ~8 | ★★ Sin City ext. | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really difficult crux move above the anchors after a small rest. Final bulge is exposed and committing! 5.11d
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6b ~7 | ★★ Sin City | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome movement. Short and sweet. Sneaky kneebar if you need it.
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
5b ~6 | ★★ Aj sa srećom | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a ~7- | ★ Leptir | 20m | Average | ||||
Delicate and chossy.
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Autocamp Titograd | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Auto Camp | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome crack! The scenery by the river, the rushing water, couldn’t ask for more.
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Smokovac | |||||||
Smoki - Smokovac Sektor E | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Good Luck Ivan | 20m |