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Node
Orjen Subra
6 Trenutek Resnice
6 Bidi Vez Z Zivljenjem
4+ Ples Pod Kaminom
5+ Davova Smer
5 Nasa Bica
3 Južni greben
Orjen
Mrceve grede
Orjen Mrceve grede
4- Zvrnda druga
5- Zvrnda prva (opcija 1)
4 Zvrnda prva (opcija 2)
5 Zvrnda treča
6- Zvrnda četvrta
Orjen
Zubacki kabao
Orjen Zubacki kabao
5 Dje malo
Moračke planine & Maganik
Mrtvica canyon

Mrtvica canyon is located in the central part of Montenegro. The river is a tributary of the Morača River and it flows into it at the villlage of Međuriječje which is also the starting point if this little-known canyon is our aim. Geografically, the Mrtvica Canyon belongs to the slopes of the Mt Maganik. The length of the most interesting part of the canyon in terms of rock climbing is about 8 kms. From both sides of the canyon, the rocks with the height of 600-700 m rise up, and those are, along with the Morača Canyon, the greatest traditional climbing potentials in the central part of Montenegro. We haven't got the data that there are ascended routes in the canyon.

How to get there

Mrtvica Canyon is situated near the Morača Canyon along which the major main road connecting the south and the north of Montenegro runs. The access to the canyon is the fastest and easiest from the Međuriječje village which is located 38 km away from Podgorica towards Kolašin. 1 km after the Pjenavac bridge, by the yellow house one should turn left (if approaching from the direction of Podgorica) downwards across the wooden bridge on the Morača River, 200 meters further on to the meadow from where the marked mountain trail to the canyon starts. It takes about 45 minute walk to get from the beggining of the trail to the entrance to the most attractive part of the canyon.

Accommodation.

There are no lodging facilities in the immediate surroundings of the Mrtvica Canyon. Before entering the central part of the canyon one passes through the Luke village, in which there are several meadows, but since they are private property it is necessary to ask local people about camping opportunities. Although it surely offers a great enjoyment, sleeping in the canyon is not advisable in the summer months due to the presence of snakes. The water of the Mrtvica River is drinkable.

Boka Kotorska

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

Orahovac - Izvor Ljute
Boka Kotorska Orahovac - Izvor Ljute
5 Lunina svetloba (tri varijante)
4 Proti soncu
4- Razkošje v skali
4 Najina pesem
4- Tiho pride jesen
4 Muca moja
4 Kozje molitvice
Boka Kotorska
Kotor

At the foot of the slopes Lovćena, at the bottom of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean, is located in Kotor, a city of rich cultural tradition and one of the best preserved medieval urban centers in this part of the Mediterranean. Two thousand years of its history have left their traces in every stone of its buildings, towers, squares and walls, paintings, frescoes, in the records of the stone and paper, in all the portals and its narrow streets. As rarely, in Kotor are remnants of bygone eras. Due to the unique blend of different cultural influences Kotor's 1979th was added to the list of world cultural heritage under UNESCO protection.

For those who would like to combine the enjoyment of culture, architecture, history and tradition that provides Kotor, festivals and carnivals, swimming, sunbathing and a little climbing equipped sports directions, then Kotor is definitely your choice! I almost zaboravim.Nad Kotor dominated southern rock peak Pestingrad, 300-350 m height. No ascended routes! I believe that climbing this rock provide unforgettable experience with a view of the Bay of Kotor.

How to get there?

Do some climbing destinations in Montenegro, you will have problems to come. That is not the case with Kotor. As one of the most popular tourist destinations in this part of the Mediterranean is well connected with the traffic environment. It is located 5 km from the international airport of Tivat, lead up to it a number of bus lines from all over Montenegro in recent years and the Croatian. The nearest train station is located in Bar, at about 65 km distance.

Accommodation

As a tourist center, Kotor, offers various types of accommodation. The best information about accommodation in Kotor can be found on www.tokotor.com official site Tourist Organization.

Climbing

During the 2005 summer, Austrian climbers from Innsbruck with the assistance of the domestic climbers equipped 15 sport routes in three locations in Kotor. What those locations have in common is that the routes are mostly excellently equipped with glue-in bolts. The most attractive routes are situated in the sector above the bus station, in the clearly visible left section of the face, while the routes in the sectors Ljuta and St Stasije are less attractive and intended for novice climbers.

Sector above the bus station

Above the bus station there is a clearly visible yellow amphitheatre. This is a place with the hardest routes; there are four of those, which are located in the left wing of the amphitheatre. Those have difficulty grades ranging from VI to VIII. The rock is of an excellent quality, the routes have a length of 15 to 20 m. It is clearly visible from the main bus station in Kotor.

Boka Kotorska Kotor
Sector above bus station
Boka Kotorska Kotor Sector above bus station
4+ Prva praska najbolj boli

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19195

Vstopimo na grebenu v levem delu previsne stene. Čez prvo stopnjo in dva raztežaja po lažjem svetu. Desno na rob grebena in po njem čez strmo stopnjo in v lažji svet.

7a+ Vertical gardener
7a+ A bad case of nihilism
7a Snail's patience
7b Culebra
7a+ The awesome 8
6c All Tinder no sparks
7a Sheep are people too
7b+ Speci
7b A moment's peace
6c Buket cvijeca
6c Pilot
7b+ Luda spilja
7c+ Lamb to the slaughter
8b Sacrificial lamb
8b Animal sacrifice
6c+ We will rakija
7b Pins and needles
7a Boreas
6a Sister savior
5a Stumpy
5a Mutton bustin'
4b Mr toad
6a Lady bird
5a Goat
5b The soccial ladder
Boka Kotorska Kotor
peak Pestingrad
Boka Kotorska Kotor peak Pestingrad
5 Čuk

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20586

Kada se dodje do desne stijene, ona se na samom početku razdvaja na dva grebena. Smjer počinje na prvom grebenu i prati ga do kraja. Drugi cug u stijeni se izdvaja jer je malo teži, a ostali lagani ali krušljivi. Sam smjer izlazi malo ispod cuvenih Pestingradskih vrata.

4+ Beštija

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=18871 Pestingrad se nalazi povise grada Kotora. Centralni dio stjene je previsan i jako krusljiv tako da smo od njega odmah odustali! Smjer pocinje usjekom na desnoj strani stijene prije cuvene pestingradske pecine u kojoj po legendi zivi vila Alkima. Prva tri cuga su jako slicni i odlikuje ih trava i solidan kvalitet stjene. Pocetak cetvrtog cuga je na malom balkonu na kojem se moze malo odmorit i uzivati u pogledu na Boko Kotorski zaliv. Tu smo ostavili jedan klin. Zatim pocinje strm dio koji karakterisu trava i jako krusljivo kamenje. Poslije tog strmog cuga dolazi ogromna polica i onda se otvara pogled na drugi dio stijene. Ocekivali smo da ce gornji dio stijene biti kompaktan kako to obicno biva u Boki ali na Pestingradu je gornji dio jako krusljiv i veoma nezgodan za penjanje. Do samog vrha vode jos 4 cuga.

Boka Kotorska Kotor
Dobrota
Boka Kotorska Kotor Dobrota
4+ Greben Dobrote 2

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20587 Smjer je u stjeni odličnog kvaliteta i sa interisantnim detaljima. Prva dva cuga su potpuno vertikalni i pružaju najviše uživanja, dok su naredna dva sve lakši i lakši.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop Sa vrha smjera desno se nailazi na pjesačku stazu, koja vodi ravno u podnožije stijene.

4+ Greben Dobrote

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=18966

Vstopimo nekaj metrov višje v desnem delu stebra. Sprva levo na steber in po njem dva raztežaja. Desno čez skalno zaporo in iščemo prehode po grebenu, ki je posejan s strmimi skoki. Še nekaj raztežajev položnejšega grebena.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop

Desno čez greben in navzdol na markirano pot, ki vodi v naselje Dobrota. 1 ura.

4 Ognjeno obzorje

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19191

Vstopimo v razčlenjen svet pod previsom in po pol raztežaja levo proti razčlenjenem razu. Po njem pod bariero. Levo navzgor na raz in iščemo prehode do plošče z razčlembami in do pastirske poti.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

4 Perunika

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19192

Na začetku po razčlenjeni skali in po desetih metrih levo na večjo polico. Še navzgor in levo po poševni razčlembi na rob. Nekaj metrov navzgor in desno na stojišče. Po nekaj metrih desno čez strmi del stene. Zgoraj levo na greben in do pastirske poti, ki poteka nad steno.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

3 Jok vetra

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19189

Vseskozi po grebenu na vrh njega.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografije z vrisano smerjo poiščemo greben, po katerem poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami. Čez spodnji del stene, ki te pripelje na pastirsko pot. Prvi lažji prehod levo na greben. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

4+ Av

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19188

Smer poteka po neizrazitem razu, ki je razdeljen na tri dele. Vmes je lažji teren. Vseskozi se držimo raza in iščemo najlepše prehode.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografijo z vrisano smerjo poiščemo steno po kateri poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami do vstopa v smer ob kovinskim električnim stebrom. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

4+ Merjasec in pivo

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19190

Čez plošče navzgor na rob. Od tu tri raztežaje po lahkem svetu pod strm del grebena. V levem delu po poklini v lažji svet in po grebenu na rob.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota po stari poti, ki te pripelje pod greben. 25 minut.

Sestop Na levo stran iščemo najlažje prehode za sestop.

Hajla

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

North rock face of Mt.Hajla ridge

North rock face of Mt Hajla ridge is the biggest mountaineering/rock climbing potential on this mountain. The rocky ridge stretches almost 2 kms in width, while its height in the section below the highest peak is around 500 m. Due to its ruggedness, numerous steep and grassed gullies and couloirs it can be an attractive destination for winter alpine climbing, in particular, if one take into account that there are no ascended routes.

Approach and Descent.

The details of reaching the mountain hut at Bandžov have been already described. A marked mountain trail through the forest leads from the hut to the locality Grope - a meadow below the north rock face at around 1800 masl. Starting from the hut, it takes about 1.30 hours of moderate hike to reach Gropa, in which the abandoned katun is located. Descent is possible along the ridge following mountain markations in the direction of the east to the first ridge, and then one should descend from the ridge going towards Grope in the direction of the north.

Accommodation.

At above-mentioned mountain hut, or if you want to be closer to the crag in the tents on the meadows below the crag. The mountaineers from Rožaje have started building the new hut at Grope. The hut should be built by the end of 2009. By the abandoned 'flats'(cottages) where the new hut will be located there is a tapped (captured) karst spring-head called Studenac.

Nikšić sa okolinom
Povija - Nikšić

Near the Ostrog Monestery in the Povija village there are routes of various grades and heights. The equipped section refers to the crag with the height of 15-20 m, characteristic for its shape of a tower, which enables climbing all its faces. It has 4-5 routes with difficulty grades ranging from V to VII. There is a potential for equipping several hundred routes on the surrounding crags. Apprach: on the road Podgorica - Nikšić in the Bogetići village, about 40 km from Podgorica one should turn right towards the Ostrog Monastery. After about two kilometres, one should turn left towards the crags.

Maglič - Bioč - Volujak

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

Bioc

Mt Bioč is the largest group of peaks which are positioned between the deep canyons- Sutjeska Canyon on the west and Piva Canyon on the east. The largest crags in the area of these three mountains are located in this massif.

Maglič - Bioč - Volujak Bioc
Vrsta(The Sort) Peak

Vrsta(The Sort) Peak is the predominant peak on the southern side of the Mratinje valley. It is characterized by an impressive north-east rock face, with the height of about 700m and the west rock face with the height of about 300m. North-east rock face with its exposed ridge forms, along with the west ridge of Oblik Peak, an amphitheatre of steep gulleys, and short rocky verticals extending to the north rock face of the barrier of Veliki Bioč and Gladište. In the rock face of Vrsta Peak there are two routes of 700 m, Istočni brid(The East Rim), IV and Centralni smjer(The Central Route), V, which were ascended 60-70 years ago but they still haven't got the first repeat!

The approach to the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak goes from Mratinjsko Lake near the Mratinje village, through forest along the smaller lake to the screes below the rock.

Oblik(The Shape) Peak

Oblik(The Shape) Peak is located eastward from Vrsta Peak and its north rock face represents a logical direction of extension of the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak. It has a height of 450m, and width of about 1000m. The approach is the same as for Vrsta Peak.

North rock face of Gladište Peak

North rock face of Gladište Peak is the biggest rock of the group of Mt Bioč. It has the height of about 750m, and the width of about 3.5kms. In spite of its size it is hidden from the looks, almost from all sides. The approach to the crag goes from the Mratinje village along the herd path to the south, along the wooded slope to the meadows of the Oblik katun. Going along the south-eastern slopes of Oblik Peak through the forest one comes out onto the screes. Traversing the screes one comes out above the two karst sinkholes below the north rock face. Oblik katun can be reached from Mratinje Lake traversing the base of the north rock faces of Vrsta Peak and Oblik Peak. The imposing rock face of Gladište Peak is visible from the shores of the accumulation lake, or, more accurately, somewhere halfway from the road leading from Plužine to the Mratinje dam. The rock has not been ascended yet.

Maglič - Bioč - Volujak
Maglic

In the triangle among the rivers Piva, Drina and Sutjeska Maglić occupies the smallest space. The northernmost peak of the massif is at the same time the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Bosanski Maglić Peak(Bosnian Maglic) 2386 m. The peak has the shape of a pyramid, and all its faces are rocky. 400 m further to the south 2 m higher Crnogorski Maglić Peak(Montenegrin Maglic) is located . The north-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić Peak faces Perućica Primeval Forest. It is about 300m in height. It is rather rugged and compact looked as a whole. An obvious rib dominates its central part. The upper section of the rock face ends in the double-headed ridge. Approach to the rock is from the end of the road to Prijevor in the direction of the east, over the slopes covered with mountain pine. Drugi kotao(Second Kettle). Southwards from the first kattle there is the second kettle as well. It is bounded by the two east ridges the southernmore of which is considerably more jagged. From its north side "The Alpine Route" leads to the summit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. That ridge has the north rock face plummeting into the second kettle. It has a height of about 200m. That rock ends on the lower foresummit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. There it joins the east rock face which has a height of 250m. Along its height it is intersected with gullies. Approach to the rock is from " The Alpine Route" rightwards into the kettle hole. Crnogorski Maglić Peak

It has a height of 2388 m. Further southwards from the second kettle, the third kettle is located. The kettle has two prominent rock faces, the north face and the east face. The north rock face is prominent for its height and exposure. It has the height of about 300m. Especially in the middle of the rock face smooth slabs and overhangs are noticeable. This rock face via the narrow crack turns into the east rock face which is along its height wrinkled with gullies and chimneys. It has the height of around 250m. The approach is from the "Alpine Route". West and south-west rock face of Crnogorski Maglić Peak are separated along the centre with the jagged ridge which lowers down all the way to Stavljani, above Suva jezerina(Dry Lakeland). West rock face starts from a narrow cleft and grassed slope in its extension which separates the south-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić from Crnogorski Maglić. The crag starts with a fairly large rocky mass with the height of about 150m. Further on it increases all the way to the south-west ridge.The crag is rugged and exposed. The central section of the crag is about 300m high. The south-west rock face is situated somewhat closer to Trnovacko Lake. It has a height of about 200m. Below it there is a large scree ending on the grassy slope, which then, over the short rocky vertical, runs downhill into Suva jezerina. Approach to the rocks is from Prijevor, that is to say from the road to Suva jezerina and Trnovacko Lake. In order to approach it one should surmount short rocky verticals

Volujak

Vlasulja Peak has the highest rock face in the massif of Mt Volujak with the height of about 350m. Central part of the north rock face is the most prominent. Going eastwards and westwards the rock face is gradually decreasing. Central part of the rock has the shape of trapezoid. It is characterized by its exposure and smooth slabs. The western section of the north rock face is about 200m high and it is intesected by chimneys and cracks. There are eight ascended routes on this crag. Like on most routes in this region, the difficulty grades III and IV with rare details of the V grade prevail.

Approach to below the rock goes from Trnovacčko Lake along the trail through the forest to the west to Trnovačke kolibe. Ascent should be continued along the trail leading through the dale on the west, which turns abruptly towards south-east to below the crag.

Trnovacki Durmitor

Within these group of the mountains a special place is occupied by the rocky barrier of Mt Trnovački Durmitor which towers above the lake on its southern side. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak and the north rock face of Centralna glava Peak(Central Head) are the most prominent parts of this massif. In these rocks there are the most of ascended routes in this region in general- about 20. Almost all routes were ascended at the rock&alpine climbing camps in 1954 and 1956. All of them are up to IV grade of difficulty except Direktni smjer trapeza(The Direct Route of Trapesoid) - Grade VI.

Trzivka Peak is situated in the eastern part of the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. The approach is from the marked trail Trnovačko Lake-Presjeka-Urdeni dolovi. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak is the highest crag in the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. It has a height of about 350m. The approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along the herd path which turns left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe.

North Rock Face of Centralna glava Peak Centralna glava Peak is, as its name says, the central peak in the massif of Mt Trnovacki Durmitor. Its northern section has several characteristic groups of crags. In the eastern part of the crag there is a prominent shape similar to the one of the trapesoid. It is connected with the north-west rock face with two obvious gulleys between which a rather large ridge sticks out. Central section of the rock face is the most prominent and the largest one. It has a height of about 250m. Approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along a herd path turning left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe - 1hr.

Prokletije
Gusinje

Introduction

Until recently Mt Prokletije has been a bait only for the masters of traditional climbing in big walls of this mountain where there are few easy and short routes. From May 2008 in the foot of these mountains sport climbing has started to live as well, owing to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the German organization for technical support and cooperation-GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in the Ropojana Valley and Grbaja Valley, southwards from Gusinje. The largest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipašini izvori, which could be a little bit cleaner, too. Visits made so far say that the best sector is Djerani, Troja Sector is pretty loose, while the two sectors in Grbaja Valley are around 10kms away and we still haven't got more precise data regarding those. Climbing season lasts from April/May to October/November. Pretty large number of sectors with different orientation provides an opportunity for climbing even in the warmest summer days.

How to Get There?

Gusinje is about 200 kms away from Podgorica. You'll need a minimum of 3-hour drive from the capital city, and perhaps even more if you find yourself stuck in some of the frequent summer traffic jams in the Morača Canyon or come across the roadworks. From Kolašin you can choose between two travel routes, one leading further along the main road via Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane, Andrijevica and Plav to Gusinje. This road is much longer, but also much better than the travel route running from Kolašin towards Mateševo via Bare Kraljske, past Komovi, over Trešnjevik pass to Andrijevica where it joins the above-mentioned route. Road over Mateševo is currently in a shabby condition, therefore we recommend you to take it only if you don't really care too much about your car, although you'll enjoy the view of Mt Komovi and soon forget giant potholes on the road. It takes 5 minutes by car or a 20 minute hike to get from Gusinje to the sector in the surroundings of Alipašini izvori. Two sectors in the Grbaja valley are about 8kms away from Gusinje.

Accommodation

In the Grbaja valley there are two mountain huts. One is the ownership of PD Radnički (Mountaineering Association Radnički) from Belgrade; it is permanently open only during the summer months, but it can be used the rest of the year as well. The other hut is the ownership of the mountaineers from Plav and Gusinje and is generally closed to the public. Apart from the hut, one can rent one of the several little log cabins, which can accommodate one rather big Šarplaninac(Yugoslav Shepherd Dog) or two men not taller than 170cm in lying position. Anyway, our recommendation is - be sure to bring along your tents. Camping is not banned anywhere, but if you really aimed at some meadow near the houses, ask the owners for permission.

Prokletije Gusinje
Main Area
Prokletije Gusinje Main Area
Sektor Verticali

15 – 20 min walk from the vtown of Gusinje.

Prokletije Gusinje Main Area Sektor Verticali
6b Radikali
5c Steinregen
6c+ Izet is driving today
6c Zuvdija is cooking today
7c+ Horizontali
7c+ Unnamed
6a Clim-Bing
Prokletije Gusinje Main Area
Sektor Pyramide
Prokletije Gusinje Main Area Sektor Pyramide
7a+ Die Mumie
6c+ Pharao
6b+ Sphinx
5a Amandas Krautergarten
7a+ BARKfest
6a+ Hakenleiter
6b Banane
Prokletije Gusinje Main Area
Sektor Risse
Prokletije Gusinje Main Area Sektor Risse
5c Corner Crack
5c Meister Proper
6c+ Abgerissen
6b+ Life could be so slow and painful

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