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The Arch

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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Begin climbing the far left-hand side of the face verging right through a boulder sequence into the main headwall following the vertical break compressing between on crimps & slopers.

FA: Daniel Scott, 5 Sep

Start just right of the large boulder beneath the arch, then traverse right onto the face and climb the wide crack using traditional protection. At mid height, veer slightly left past two bolts to the top of the cliff, then climb onto the boulder to the anchor of route ‘The Angry Sea and the Sky’.

Set by Thibaut, 31 Aug

FA: Thibaut, 23 Sep

The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face.

FA: Bryce Martin & Simon Vallings, 1983

The chimney at the back of the arch with chockstone half way up. Climb to the chockstone turning it on the outside (crux). Ascend easily till the chimney has to be vacated out onto a slab on the right, then up easy but poor rock.

There is a large knob of rock on the top of the ridge that can be belayed off, or chuck a sling around it and climb down the gully on the other side to the belay of "The Angel of Calcutta" which is on the right wall of the gully.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1973

On the right side of the arch and at a slightly higher level is a maze of chimneys. Climb by the easiest means and finish up loose rocks.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1973

Face out to sea and head up the huge crack in the left wall towards the roof. Climb the roof crack and belay at a bottomless stance from big gear.

Pitch two: Out towards the sea and up a fist crack on the outside wall.

FA: Bill Atkinson & Paul Richardson, 1975

Not recommended, first pitch as for ‘Kyrie Elison’.

Pitch two: Face inland and climb up the wall on rotten rock and mud. Protection and rock quality is poor.

FA: Bill Atkinson & Paul Bougher, 1975

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1999

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

FA: Christian Gamst, 17 Feb 2019

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