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The Amphitheatre

25

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1997

Closed

Closed Project (Two bolts with yellow tape)

Set by Daniel Scott & Christian Gamst

Begin in the crack to the right (as for Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.

FA: Grant Davidson & John Dawson, 1984

Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top. DBC.

FA: Rick McGregor & Geoff Mead, 1975

The second arête from the Arch. Climb past the first bolt to the ledge on the right then straight up. DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

Follow the crack-looking feature up the face. At 4th bolt, veer slightly right on thin holds (crux), before powering through the final moves to the anchor. Stay on the face for full value.

FA: Chris Lacoste, 9 Jun

Set by Thibaut, 9 Jun

The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Kaaren Cordukes, 1996

The fist crack right of "C.J.D Arete", climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Geoff Shekell, 1974

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on "J.E.M." helps with otherwise lean protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.

FA: Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley & John Watson, 1972

Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab.

Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.

FA: Christian Gamst, 2 Feb 2019

Short bouldery line which climbs directly up the left hand side face of Pegasus.

FA: DanielScott, 23 Jan 2020

Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley. Slopey holds, and some fantastic moves.

FA: Christian Gamst & Mario Hernandez, 5 Jan 2019

Climb the short offwidth to the right of the gully, then head right, up the hanging corner to gain a large ledge. Beware of loose rock. Continue up the offwidth with a chockstone above, finish to the right of the arete. There are rap chains behind the large blocks.

FA: Rick McGregor & Cado Avenali, 1974

Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. No anchors yet. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up the Line of Fearless Freddie to it’s anchor.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 18 Jan 2019

Climb the face right of the crack. Crack is out. A bit contrived, but fun.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Feb 2019

Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Ken Harcombe, 1999

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Neil Withers, 2000

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

FA: Mark Bodt & Marcus Thomas, 1991

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 2000

The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.

FA: Gordon Mather & John Watson, 1972

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