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Chad Wall

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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep hand crack with a good start, cruxy centre and widening top to ram's horns belay.

FA: Rick McGregor, Tony Martyr & Robbie McBirney, 1974

Start as for ‘Chad’ until it is possible to traverse right to reach the thin crack. Climb this crack, hard to protect

FA: Rick McGregor & Len Gillman, 1980

A direct start to ‘Pin Ups’. Climb ‘Chad’ for 1m then up the face to the right past one bolt until the thin crack is reached.

FA: Ton Snelder & Clare Kermode, 1987

The straight crack, hardest towards the top.

FA: Rick McGregor & Cado Avenali, 1974

Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack, stepping at the top to easier ground.

FA: Rick McGregor, Cliff Smith, Robbie McBirney & Greg Pickford, 1973

On the sea ward end of the point. Climb the left end of the rib pulling over the overhang on good but brittle holds. Continue up the steep wall to an awkward ledge. Climb the overhang above and easily to the top.

FA: Rick McGregor & Bryce Martin, 1975

The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on the right to DBC belay.

FA: Jeff Clark & John Watson, 1972

The arête and the ‘fang’ at half height. Wet at high tide. DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle & John McKenzie, 1997

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