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Sam Bullock Wall

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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

FA: Derek Watts, 2003

FA: Lydia Bradley, 1992

Climb the twin cracks to a chock stone at half height, finish up left to good ledges.

Grade 17 variation: climb the right-hand crack direct.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Rick McGregor, 1973

Straight up past four bolts to belay on top of pinnacle.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1992

Climb the first 2 bolts then traverse left to pick up the top 2 bolts of Man From Atlantis. Start requires more powerful moves than MFA but less technical so the grade probably stays the same. Climb the crack before stepping left to clip the 3rd bolt of MFA. The direct version is getting bolted and will be very hard!!!

FA: Chris Hailey, 30 Sep

The crack through the pea pod. Belay as for Man From Atlantis.

FA: Geoff Shekell & Cliff Smith, 1972

Corner crack left of the gully. Climb the wide crack, exiting on large holds over some chock stones. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

Step left onto a steep slab below the only bolt. Straight up into the crack to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Derek Watts, Ken Harcombe & Bev Smith, 1999

Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m . Up for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, and on to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

FA: Cliff Smith, John Maine & Mike Dean, 1973

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

FA: Derek Watts & Ken Harcombe

Starts from the high boulder ledge up the right leaning crack to the right of 'Puffin'. Place some smallish cams and then sling the pinnacle before heading up the crack. Exit the crack and traverse left to the anchors of Puffin. First climbed after a big night drinking Roaring Meg.

FA: Peter Robinson & Cormac Flynn, 2010

1 14 12m
2 16 15m

Starts in the open book corner to the left of 'Slap and Tickle', climb easily up large blocks to a widening crack. Layback off an easy hand jam and climb the short crack to top out on a large sloping ledge with flax bushes.

Set up a TRAD belay in the cracks on either side of the solid/stable massive wedged boulder. The money is the next crack (on the RHS of the ledge) which starts off as hands then fist then a short offwidth crux. Worth having a BD 2,3 and 4 cam.

Once the crack has been exited climb easily trending right below the large “diving board” roof. Once below the diving board step right and traverse for 1 metre on an exposed ledge system (above the slab of 'Slap and Tickle').

Finally, high step up over the bulging boulders and scramble carefully to the anchors of “slap and tickle” There is a small pine tree below the anchors which can be slung for those feeling a little faint hearted. Helmet recommended.

FA: Peter Robinson & Andre Basel, 31 Jul

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