A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Christian Gamst Sergey Komarov Thibaut Zachary Brierley Alexei Drummond Marco Lefebvre Andy Baird Chris Hailey Nicole Dan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Whiskey Delta Area 19 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Whiskey Delta Area 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.319253, 174.800332
description
Stays dry at hide tide.
access issues
The crag borders private property so please respect this.
Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.
descent notes
Many routes have had ram's horns added. https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Slap and Tickle
Between two chimneys is a slabby wall. There are a lot of large pohutukawas at the top of this part of the cliff and this route is below the eastern most tree. Climb easily past the first bolt to the ledge. Move right past the second bolt and up the outside of the chimney, past the third bolt and up into the wide crack. The bolts then continue up the left face to the new rams horns anchors. FA: Graeme Dingle & Ariaan Dingle, 1998 | 15 | 18m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Chimney Climb
Start at the lowest point of the chimney and climb easy ground into the chimney proper. Up the chimney to easy ledges, then the rib above. Shares ram's horns anchors with 'Slap and Tickle'. FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 10 | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★ closed project
Climb the crux of ‘The Troll’ then head out left after the second bolt. Set: Chris Hailey | 10m, 4 | ||||||
4 |
★★ The Troll
Start up the thin crack, pulling onto the face with some big moves to the break at about half height. Move right at the top to join the anchors of 'J P Superdog'. Originally a bold undertaking protected with traditional gear. A seldom, if ever repeated feat. FA: FA: Michael Welson, 2001 Set: James Field-Mitchell, Oct 2021 | 25 | 12m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ J P Superdog
A broken hand crack on the left of a slabby wall. Climb past a small tree up to a large one and double Ram's horns belay. | 15 | 10m | |||||
6 |
★ Suicide Wall
A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’. Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Heather Howlett, 2004 | 14 | 10m, 4 | |||||
7 |
Njoker
The chimney finishing at a large tree. FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 12 | 10m | |||||
8 |
★ Grunt=Mc2
Four bolts and tree belay. Follow the two almost horizontal bolts traversing right until reaching the arête and finishing as for ‘The Appendix’ past the third and fourth bolt. Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell and Andrew Batten, 2004 FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Andrew Batten, 2004 | 21 | 8m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★ Birds Can't Fly on One Wing
On the large block - juggy and steep. FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell, Heather Howlett & Simon McFedries, 2004 | 18 | 7m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★ Farewell MMD
To the right of 'Birds Can’t Fly on One Wing' climb the obvious line up the centre of the block. FA: Graeme Dingle, 2004 | 16 | 7m | |||||
11 |
★★ The Appendix
Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation. Ram's horns have been added. There is also a chain around the tree. FA: Graeme Dingle & Fiona Joyce, 1996 | 18 | 13m, 4 | |||||
12 |
★ Peritonitis / Toxoplasmosis
Climb the slabby wall to the ledge at the base of overhanging section placing a wire or cam on the way or clip the first bolt of ‘The Appendix’. From the ledge clip the bolt on the headwall then move up past this to clip the last bolt on ‘The Appendix’. A right side variation involves climbing the face directly to the single bolt on the steep bulge. Stay right on the bulge using a sketchy heel hook to gain better holds. Press out mantle to finish. This variation is called "Toxoplasmosis" by Marco Lefebvre. FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Andrew Batten, 2004 | 22 | 12m, 3 | |||||
13 |
★★ The Womb
The short corner just before the grassy bank, there is a chain link hanger on the left face at about half height. Climb the crack or face on the left until the chockstone, over and then the left face or squeeze up the crack. FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 13 | 12m | |||||
14 |
★ Twinge
Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa. FA: Graeme Dingle, Mark Johnston & Craig Johnston, 1998 | 18 | 8m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ Sterrick
FA: Jeff Clark & Gordon Mather, 1972 | 15 | 10m, 1 | |||||
16 |
★ Elementary
The short crack facing the sea, Crux is the second section of the crack proper, tree belay back from the top. FA: John Watson, 1972 | 14 | 10m | |||||
17 |
★★ Ariaan Makarena
To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above. FA: Graeme Dingle & Dillon Vickery, 1996 | 19 | 10m, 2 | |||||
18 |
Erg
The leaning chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. Tree belay. FA: John Watson, Brian Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 13 | 10m | |||||
19 |
★ Piglet's Dilemma
The slightly over hanging wall with three bolts. There is only one hard move, just above the second bolt. Double bolt belay with rams horns. FA: Graeme Dingle, Fiona Joyce & Liz Horne, 1996 | 21 | 10m, 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | ★ | Chimney Climb | 25m | ||
12 | Njoker | 10m | |||
13 | Erg | 10m | |||
★★ | The Womb | 12m | |||
14 | ★ | Elementary | 10m | ||
★ | Suicide Wall | 10m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ | J P Superdog | 10m | ||
★ | Slap and Tickle | 18m, 5 | |||
★ | Sterrick | 10m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ | Farewell MMD | 7m | ||
18 | ★ | Birds Can't Fly on One Wing | 7m, 3 | ||
★★ | The Appendix | 13m, 4 | |||
★ | Twinge | 8m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ | Ariaan Makarena | 10m, 2 | ||
21 | ★ | Grunt=Mc2 | 8m, 4 | ||
★ | Piglet's Dilemma | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ | Peritonitis | 12m, 3 | ||
25 | ★★ | The Troll | 12m, 4 | ||
? | ★★ | closed project | 10m, 4 |