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Description

First bit of wall you reach when you get lakeside. Denoted by the area between the Pump House wall and the fence you walk around to get to the Lakeside wall

Access issues inherited from Maungarei Springs

Please be sensible, respectable and safe, wear a helmet whether you're climbing, belaying or just watching (falling rocks, hardware etc. aren't picky who they hit). Be considerate to other park users and residents of the area. Dogs are not allowed in the wetlands as per council rules.

Please park considerately to maximise cars parked in the marked carparks on Barbarich Dr or Tephra Blvd, do not park in the turn around area or up on the grass. It’s a short walking distance to the climbs and there is an access road round the right side of the lake. There is a toilet and drinking fountain in the reserve by Tephra Blvd.

All climbs are on reserve land, Maungarei Springs Wetland is classified as Open Space – Informal Recreation Zone in the Auckland Unitary Plan. The original route developers have been joined by NZAC & ACAT for managing the crag for recreational climbing in the reserve.

Approach

Easiest approach is by the access road on the right side of the lake.

Descent notes

Abseil off climbs, the top of the cliff can be accessed from the anchors of "Gorse of the Gods" and "Hrgngh Direct" but it is currently infested with gorse (council should be spraying shortly).

Ethic inherited from Maungarei Springs

Routes are a mix of sport, mixed and trad, was originally developed for dry tooling but all routes have been free climbed. No retro bolting of trad climbs without first ascent confirmation. Since it was a working quarry there are still loose rocks from blasting, but a solid wall is slowly emerging.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

A controversial and contrived route. This largely retrobolted Midday Lightning. Eliminate both left and right crack and climb the slabby face.

Chopped.

FA: Unknown

Head up a thinning crack then step across right to access another thin crack. Possible earlier FA unknown.

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, 5 Apr 2018

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

FA: Christian Gamst, 2 Apr 2018

Hard bouldery start up the scoop to a no hands rest at mid-height. Then some balancy moves direct up the face to finish (stay off the right arete for full value).

Set: Christian Gamst, Apr 2018

FA: Leon Laubscher, 7 Feb 2021

Left- hand start variant to Hrgngh.

Start left of the blunt arete for Hrgngh, the left crack and everything beyond is out (no bridging obviously). Make your way up some difficult moves and finish as for Hrgngh.

FA: Sooji Clarkson, 17 Jul 2018

Right facing corner crack from hand to fist to offwidth.

FA: Petrouka Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, 13 Apr 2018

Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, the only trick is mantling at the top without ending up with gorse in you.

Set: Andrew Baird & Eric Horn, 3 Dec 2019

FA: Andrew Baird & Eric Horn, 3 Dec 2019

Start either on the left or right of the pillar (left is 18), follow the main flaring corner up & right to a very cool blast hole. Continue upwards and left to the DBC anchor (shared with Atomic Rooster).

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grienson & Owen Lee, 8 Jul 2018

Start up crack to the right of the slab face. First piece can be placed from the ground, second piece from first stable stance . Then go left up the slab face via bolt to place piece in horizontal crack to second bolt and DBC anchor finish.

Set: 7 May 2018

FA: Tim Swain & Colin Megson, 7 May 2018

Follow the obvious flared crack to the left of slab wall. Leads to easy run out scramble. limited protection once you get to the scramble. Double chain anchor.

Set: Tim Swain, 23 Apr 2018

FA: Tim Swain, 23 Apr 2018

Climb the blocks then pull through the steeper section to the right of the tree. Easy slab finish to the anchor. Stay left of the arête to avoid the choss and place gear in the thin crack on the left.

FA: Thibaut & Simon Binney, 17 Nov 2020

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

FA: Thibaut, 13 Sep 2020

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Activity

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