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Pump House Wall

9

Seasonality

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Description

Behind the pump house

Climbs listed from right to left

Access issues inherited from Maungarei Springs

Please be sensible, respectable and safe, wear a helmet whether you're climbing, belaying or just watching (falling rocks, hardware etc. aren't picky who they hit). Be considerate to other park users and residents of the area. Dogs are not allowed in the wetlands as per council rules.

Please park considerately to maximise cars parked in the marked carparks on Barbarich Dr or Tephra Blvd, do not park in the turn around area or up on the grass. It’s a short walking distance to the climbs and there is an access road round the right side of the lake. There is a toilet and drinking fountain in the reserve by Tephra Blvd.

All climbs are on reserve land, Maungarei Springs Wetland is classified as Open Space – Informal Recreation Zone in the Auckland Unitary Plan. The original route developers have been joined by NZAC & ACAT for managing the crag for recreational climbing in the reserve.

Approach

Go round the back of the pump house, climbs can be top roped by climbing up to the right of the cliff. Good to have long slings or ropes as the anchors are far back from the edge.

Descent notes

You can either abseil off the single anchor in the middle or down climb at the right end of the cliff as you face it.

Ethic inherited from Maungarei Springs

Routes are a mix of sport, mixed and trad, was originally developed for dry tooling but all routes have been free climbed. No retro bolting of trad climbs without first ascent confirmation. Since it was a working quarry there are still loose rocks from blasting, but a solid wall is slowly emerging.

History

History timeline chart

Originally established in 2009.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Easily up to the overhanging bulge, hump and bump your way over the bulge and continue to the anchors.

Anchor hangers now have rings so you can climb and then abseil without walking off.

FA: Grant Johnston, 30 Sep 2017

FA: Christian Gamst, 12 Aug 2018

Follow the arete just to the right of The Potarta moving right and up to the shelf and anchors. 2 BRs, 2 BBs.

FA: Phil Higgins & William Higgins, 4 Sep

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with TBD.

Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on.

Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off.

FA: Steven McInally, 2009

Start as for Sunny Sunday, at the third bolt step right and over the bulge (crux).

Set: siva-blaize faalavaau

FA: Phillip Higgins, 1 Dec 2019

Start as for Sunday Sunday, clipping the first bolt of that route to move right and follow two more bolts, finishing directly and to the left of the third, to the groove above.

FA: Gerald Lanning & Phillip Higgins, 1 Jan 2019

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

FA: Herman Voss, 2009

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

FA: Robert Scott, 2015

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

FA: Stephen McInally, 2009

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