Access issues inherited from Maungarei Springs

Please be sensible, respectable and safe, wear a helmet whether you're climbing, belaying or just watching (falling rocks, hardware etc. aren't picky who they hit). Be considerate to other park users and residents of the area. Dogs are not allowed in the wetlands as per council rules.

Please park considerately to maximise cars parked in the marked carparks on Barbarich Dr or Tephra Blvd, do not park in the turn around area or up on the grass. It’s a short walking distance to the climbs and there is an access road round the right side of the lake. There is a toilet and drinking fountain in the reserve by Tephra Blvd.

All climbs are on reserve land, Maungarei Springs Wetland is classified as Open Space – Informal Recreation Zone in the Auckland Unitary Plan. The original route developers have been joined by NZAC & ACAT for managing the crag for recreational climbing in the reserve.


Easiest approach is by the access road on the right side of the lake.

Descent notes

Access to the top is possible by walking up the top ledge from the pump house. Beware of knocking loose rock down on climbers below. There are some anchors on the back top wall, but locating where you are is difficult, and most anchors don't have access from the top of the cliff. Plus the top tier is currently overrun with gorse which the council is meant to be spraying.

Ethic inherited from Maungarei Springs

Routes are a mix of sport, mixed and trad, was originally developed for dry tooling but all routes have been free climbed. No retro bolting of trad climbs without first ascent confirmation. Since it was a working quarry there are still loose rocks from blasting, but a solid wall is slowly emerging.


History timeline chart

One trad route was put up by Stephen McInally in 2009, then nothing much happened until early 2016.



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Grade Route

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

FA: Owen Lee, 4 Jan 2019

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

FA: Mario Hernandez, 4 Nov 2018

Not yet bolted, as I'm still cleaning it.

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

FA: Christian Gamst, 26 Mar 2018

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for Dochawiyogicojalime

FA: Myles Perry, 27 Oct 2018

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

FA: Owen Lee & Gregor Kolbe, Feb 2016

The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value.

Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020

FA: Leon Laubscher, 14 Nov 2020

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Greirson & Owen Lee, May 2016

Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet

FA: Andrew Morozov, 15 Nov 2019

Up the groove as for Zag, finish right past two bolts to the anchor of 'I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie'.

First bolt installed by unknown, climbed to anchors of dochawi by Mario Hernandez, later extended by running out to the top by Phil Higgins and Dave Ackery, Before finally having an extra bolt and anchors installed. You figure out who the FA is.

Set: Unknown, 2018

FA: Mario Hernandez, 2018

FA: Phil Higgins & Dave Ackery, 31 Dec 2018

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of Shooting in the Dark.

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

FA: Christian Gamst, 18 Mar 2018

Climb up the corner between shooting in the dark and zag, traversing left under the chossy ledge and finishing at the former's anchors. Slinging the tree while amusing, is not advised. If (and when) it goes, it will pull down most of the climb. The crack in the corner offers excellent protection, although the chossy ledge above provides food for thought. First ascent done with two offsets and a 0.5 C4 that a certain leader forgot on the ground.

FA: Jason, 1 Mar 2020

Climb the slabby arete to the right of "I Do My Cleaning in the Rain", leads to a great crack on the left with plenty of placement options. Mantle onto the large ledges and protect the widening crack above to head up to the anchors. You can either stay mostly in this crack, or bridge out left so you can use the juggy edges above.

Spotted the great crack and had already cleaned the widening crack at the top so it was match made in the heavenly sun.

FA: Andrew Baird, Gianna Evans & Gerald Lanning, 18 Oct 2020

Climb the inwards corner to the right of "Shooting in The Dark" and left of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun". Some subtle cracks for protection down lower open to a nice wide hex size crack as you get to the crux of mantling before easier ground above. Climb moves right up the easy blocks to the anchors of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun".

Gianna and I managed to dodge the rain and climb "Shooting in The Dark" but the rain returned with a vengeance so we cleaned this route instead of climbing. Named after the a-ha version of Crying in The Rain which I heard the weekend before.

FA: Andrew Baird & Gianna Evans, 21 Mar 2020

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

FA: Owen Lee, 1 May 2016

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of Shooting in the Dark to shared anchors.

FA: Mario Hernandez, 20 Jan 2018

Start to the left of" My Foot Slipped". Climb the steep crack on the left side of the pillar. Continue directly up for a few meters then step left onto a ledge below a smooth concave face. Climb a few moves up the left side of the face to reach the handrail then traverse right just above the bolt to the nose.

FA: Duncan Peters & ken burgess, 17 Mar 2019

Warning Rock: Loose rock around 3rd bolt

Warning Rock: Massive loose rocks.

Use the thin crack and pockets up the steep face then straight through the overhang. Once through the overhang trending left and up a steep corner to the anchor. Initially climbed as a dry tooling route at grade M7, later free climbed.

FA: Owen Lee, 13 Jul 2019

FFA: Daniel Scott, 12 Oct 2019

Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His".

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, 13 Nov 2018

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, 13 Apr 2018

Starts just right of Canadian Summer.

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

Set: Ken Burgess & Duncan Peters, 19 Apr 2019

FA: Ken Burgess & Duncan Peters, 19 Apr 2019

Climb to the blast hole between "Swan Lake" and "Canadian Summer (M5)". Trad gear all the way, bouldery finish either up the crack (which is protectable with large cam/s) or the arete.

I'm still investigating anchors, you can sling over the rock behind and above the blast hole and through the blast hole. You can then pull the rope over the right side (i.e. up through the hole).

Named after Maungarei and the mokomoko (Māori for skink), there are many around the crag and the two first climbers looked like mokomoko clambering up through the crack or over the arete.

Set: Andrew Baird, Gianna Evans & Eric Horn, Jan 2021

FA: Andrew Baird & Phil Higgins, 19 Feb 2021

Warning Rock: Terrible rock, deteriorated?

Warning Fixed Gear: A couple of bolts need attention

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Set: Owen Lee, May 2016

FA: Owen Lee, May 2016

Scramble up onto the ledge. Navigate straight up the face. slight left of bulge goes at 25, right of the bulge 26

Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020

FA: Travis Rangi, 26 Jun 2020

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Set: Petrouch Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

FA: Petrouch Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

Climb the large blocks to the boulder and crack. Protection goes in the crack, you go to the left of the boulder - hexes and nuts work well. Traverse right to the anchors of Sylvie’s Blast Hole.

FA: Andrew Baird, 9 Dec 2018

Start below as for Sylvie's Blast Hole, then traverse diagonally up to the anchors of A Carp Died for this.

Loose blocks have been removed, but there may still be a few more until it sees more traffic.

FA: Lizzie Gamst, 11 Mar 2018

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

FA: Ken Burgess, 7 Sep 2019

Start 5m R of ‘A Carp Died for this Climb’ Climb the corner with a thin crack at the back of it. Alternatively climb the corner 2m to the R. Continue directly up easier rock to the corner with yellow rock on its right. Start in the corner then move up left and continue trending slightly leftwards up the face and corner until a bolt can be seen on a smooth face to the right. Traverse past the bolt and continue upward to the anchor point below a large overhang near the top of the crag.

FA: Duncan Peters & Ken Burgess, 29 Jun 2019

To the right of A Carp Died for This Climb, follow the line of weakness to the anchors.

FA: Lizzie Gamst, 18 Mar 2018

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Set: Joshua Thoresen & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

FA: Joshua Thoresen & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Climb the cruxy face then slabby corner left of "A Carp Died for this Climb", moving right for the last move or two to the shared belay/rap anchor. 3 bolts and possible to clip the fourth on "A Carp Died..". Take care approaching and clipping the third bolt as run-out.

FA: Phillip Higgins, 14 Nov 2018

Climb the corner between Carpe Diem & Tuatara on gear placed in the crack. Continue up Tuatara climbing the smooth face either to the right or left of top bolt.

Set: ken burgess & Duncan Peters, 10 Jan 2021

FA: Duncan Peters & ken burgess, 10 Jan 2021

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

FA: Duncan Peters & Ken Burgess, 17 Sep 2019

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

FA: Ken Burgess, 15 Aug 2019

Start is between Fingertip Face and MV6.Follow the crack,groove,drillhole,up to the MV6 anchors. Good stances for gear placements but a little run out at the top.

FA: ken burgess, 24 Jun

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

FA: Duncan Peters, 15 Aug 2019

Climbs the blocks to the right of 'The South Face', follow the blast hole line towards the anchors of 'Finger Tip Face'. Some good placements on the first half, the bolts can be used for a mixed route or there's a small crack with a couple of placements leading up to the anchor.

FA: Andrew Baird & Gianna Evans, 10 Feb 2020

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

Climb the line of weakness on the left hand side of "The South Face" ledge. Curves it's way up to the anchors of that climb. Plenty of small placements in the crack and very obvious line now that the gorse bush and choss is gone.

FA: Zane Zahnay Bray, 14 Nov 2020

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

FA: Bryce Martin, 17 Jun 2016

Warning Fixed Gear: Missing lower off hanger

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Climbs the face up to the first bolt of Blood, Sweat and Sunblock then traverses left to a diagonal rail. Some big moves lead to the horizontal crack with a bomber placement, then a big move to the lip.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 7 Nov 2018

Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 15 Dec 2018

Climb the face just left of the arête. Technical face climbing on small crimps, arête is out. Place a cam in the horizontal break before the anchors for added protection at the final move.

Set: Marco Lefebvre, 2018

FA: Marnus, 10 Nov

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Up the groove, delicate traverse left, finish straight up with some powerful moves

FA: Christian Gamst, 8 Dec 2018

Climb up to the ledge, move right onto the face and go up through the gorse bush. Climb the headwall on the right using the top two bolts of the project or do it all trad with small gear in the crack.

FA: Paul Renwick & Gianna Evans, 11 May 2019

Set: Juan Antonio Cuenca, 6 May 2019

FA: Daniel Scott, 15 Sep 2019

Up the blunt arete right of 'Two Tools..'

FA: Michael Crapo, 16 Dec 2018

Warning Fixed Gear: One bolt is a bit loose at the top

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

FA: Thibaut, 24 Mar 2020

Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

FA: Stephen McInally, 2009

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Warning Fixed Gear: Bolts currently removed

Bare walls make bridging a necessity without mixed tools. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

FA: Owen Lee, May 2016

Start up between 'Whimsical West' and 'Rockclimb this you Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.

FA: Ken Burgess & Duncan Peters, 30 Jul 2020

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Set: Duncan Peters & Ken Burgess

FA: Duncan Peters & Ken Burgess, Jan 2020

Starts 5m left of "The Whimsical West". Climb 3m up to the left end of large rounded ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb up to second bolt then traverse horizontally along ledge then up to third bolt.

Up to fourth bolt then up the corner just right of the anchor bolts. Alternatively from fourth bolt climb corner just left of the anchor bolts.

Set: Duncan Peters & Ken Burgess, Oct 2019

FA: Duncan Peters, Oct 2019

Start as for Go up the Waterfall but instead of traversing leftwards under the overhang go straight up to the same anchor. Possible earlier FA unknown.

FA: Richard Flinn & Fujine Wolken, 31 Dec 2017

Starts on the face to the right of the waterfall (the slabby jutting out pieces where birds hang around, look for the guano), traverse left under the waterfall and then steel yourself for the big haul up and over!

Top half is a breeze and fun to climb up where the water flows after heavy rain.

Set: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Start slightly right of the shrub in the middle of the waterfall face under the guano, work your way straight up on small edges to the bulge, then proceed directly up.

First few meters offers no opportunity for protection, but provides enjoyable and delicate climbing. Placements improve as you get higher, and the big haul over the overhang and bulge is well protected, leading to easy climbing above, topping out on DBA. Look out for the hidden jugs and edges on top of the bulge.

Unsure if this variation has been climbed before, but thought I'd share.

Set: Jason, 24 Dec 2019

Wide groove just inside the end fence of Lakeside Wall. Technical start leads to quality jugs and good placements.

Delicate mantle and traverse right on the ledge to clip the one bolt. Climb diagonally right up to the anchor of Go up the waterfall.

Set: Andrew Baird, 27 Oct 2018

FA: Andrew Baird, 27 Oct 2018

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