Ascents of Midday Lightning

Good to get back on it, got some better placements on the top crack. Tricam on the right wasn't great, otherwise good.

Spooked by thin crack at top 👻 couldn't hand jam (need more experience) and my toes and calves were dying 😂 Got it though, nice climb!

Pulled a hold off at the top.Would have been clean.

Repeat

2nd favorite trad route at the Springs.

Can't believe I'd never done this before. Really enjoyed!

More or less alzheimers onsight again. Good thinking fun though had to wait a bit after the traverse due to a little rain en route. Still a tad slick up top. #2 & 3 ball nuts, 2x WC zero #2s.

Had attempted the start of the crack before and retreated onto "Gorse of the Gods", otherwise an onsite .

Quality climb, some great moves, kinda thin gear up top 1/3rd keeps it feeling spicy, would have been nice to have another ballnut. Definitely getting this climb down smoother, got better gear in this time too. Placed my first ballnut and offset cam!

Traverse felt a little better this time.

Sat at the anchor saw a dead carp floating in the lake with a rat onboard having a feed.

multiple climbs of this route teaching friends gear placement and pitching style. also maybe a sneaky tool placement or two.

Got 2 tri cams and 2 ball nuts in

Loose nut on left anchor and mallion half open.

Some of the gear is fiddly. Need lots of small wires.

Bit of a scary traverse, commiting move over. Wonder if there's a better way..

One of the best climbs at Stonefields. Managed to place 2 of my new brass offsets.

Managed to get in even more gear this time. Nice climb.

I tried to follow the hand traverse low and couldn't so I then climbed higher on the face on little feet using the left hand crack and then reached across to the right hand crack and I have to say I think it is a better climb this way but might be dicey on lead.

Helps to have long limbs and a #2 Ballnut

Both this and atomic rooster felt like 18s to me. Traverse not so bad if you have long arms.

Couldn't do the traverse without rope assistance. Good climb.

Good fun, jammy start, exciting wee traverse, nice moves above. Ball nuts were handy. Not sure its 19 though.