Fantasy Factory Mostly Trad climbing 55 routes in crag

On the upper part of the cliff at the left-hand side are three short climbs that all feature very loose blocks, and have little to recommend them...

Climb up the wall for 5m, or start in a loose corner to the right and reach across left to place gear; then move across, taking care to avoid pulling the wobbly blocks off. Step up and jam in the corner. Avoid the blocks at the top by moving left, and anchor at a boulder about five metres back.

The first route that goes the full height of the crag. Start on slab left of "Faigan", climb leftwards to first bolt. Crux on layaways and small holds after third bolt. Wires and small cams for top trad section, through the split prow. Double bolt belay anchor

The first gully, from the left that goes the full height of the crag. Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step left and climb the crack over a large block (crux, easy but commiting), and finish up the corner. You can use Geoid anchor.

The prominent corner-gully. The first few metres is the hardest, with typical Fantasy side-pulls and down-pressure moves. Climb the gully, traversing right below the big roof. Continue up cracks beside the arête to exit in the right-angle corner.

Start in the Faigan gully, go immediately rightwards to gain the face above the balcony,climb the wall when the angle eases past the 4th bolt, veer left onto the lefthand crack, then up the corner using the rap station just rightwards of the top of the corner. Eats smaller trad gear. Start in the Faigan gully, go immediately rightwards to gain the face above the balcony,climb the wall when the angle eases past the 4th bolt, veer left onto the lefthand crack, then up the corner using the rap station just rightwards of the top of the corner. Eats smaller trad gear. Lots of protections after 3rd bolt.