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Climbing in this area is closed.

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Summary

Dragon Crags is the new name applied to the collection of trachyte cliffs and buttresses to the east of the main Devils Gap cliff. This area has been separated into its own crag area because of the number of routes now established and the distinctive style of the area.

Access issues

The crags are on private farmland, and permission to climb must be obtained from the farm manager, Giles Foley, on 03 325-1109. It is not always possible to make contact, so a back-up plan is advised (Coffin Rock is nearby and on public land). Note: It is not reasonable to expect Giles to call you back, so please don't ask for this. Just try calling again.

Approach

Drive toward Little River and turn off to the east just before the town, on Kinloch Road, continuing uphill to the south to join Bossu Road. Drive 2 km east and turn south again on Gap Road toward Robin Hood Bay. The best parking is just before a gate near the pine trees. Walk along the road 100 metres to another gate with an NZAC sign and track. Walk south along the track and on to the main ridge wit a view to Peraki Valley. The Gap itself is to the south, with the farm track running through it.

The lower track takes a farm track that goes eastward from the ridge through a gate, leading gradually down the slope. Past an area of gorse and kanuka that has been sprayed, drop down through the paddock to a branch track below that cuts back to the west, and then swings south toward the crags. This old overgrown farm track runs level to a small clearing, and then a foot track ascends through the gorse and scrub to the lower buttresses.

The main track is marked with pink flagging tape, and goes directly to the start of The Road to Perdition in the Multi-pitch area, with a side track leading off from an area of bush to Pioneer Ridge on the right. The main track continues past the base of the Baby Buttress, across a small gap, and up to the base of the Dragon's Tail. A side track goes steeply up to the right to The Gully area and the top of the Baby Buttress, while the main track continues up to the Dragon's Tail, and then left and up around to join the upper track.

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed
1 14 60m
2 18 40m
3 15 15m
4 16 15m
5 17 20m
6 6 30m
7 15 12m

Set: Lindsay Main, 2019

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed The Red Slab area
-
0
0
Closed Karaka Wall area
-
0
0
Closed Bobo Wall area
-
0
0
Closed Upper Walls area
-
0
0
Closed Gaga Wall area
-
0
0
Closed Upper Pillars area
-
0
0
Closed The Gully area
3
2
27m
Closed Baby Buttress area
2
2
35m
Closed Little Pillar area
-
0
0

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