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Summary

Seaside cliff, where you will be belaying from the sea if you get the tide wrong.

Description

Small wall with some limited development and bolting.

Access issues inherited from Bowentown Heads

Can be difficult at high tide.

Approach

Drive to Bowetown, and pass the campground. Right before the carpark after the campground, turn right and drive up the hill to another carpark. Take the stairs down from the carpark. At the bottom of the stairs go to the right until you reach the sand.

There is a drop from the rocks to the sand, but it is possible to climb through a small cave near the rock face.

Where to stay

Waihi, Waihi beach town, or the Bowentown camp.

Ethic

The site features at least Maori Pa.

No particular ethics need to be followed aside from being respectful and not damaging the area.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb found by turning right after descending the stairs, beginning is in the little enclave after you hit the sand.

Not accessible at high tide.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the right side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the right side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the left side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

One of a bunch of shorter, easier routes in the middle of the beach. Start on the right hand side of the buttress on big holds, finishing on the shallow groove at the top. Room for one nut and one cam, then rap off the big tree at the top.

FA: Pippa Cronin, 11 Jan 2020

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