Map 11 Cyclops Boulder Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ashkan rew Tommy Alex Hartshorne Sergey Komarov AlexD Christian Lopez TG Thibaut Luke

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1. Map 11 Cyclops Boulder / Nasal Slip Area / Diablo and Pandemonium 99 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Map 11 Cyclops Boulder 99 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -43.231372, 171.715416

summary

Map 11 in The comprehensive Castle Hill Climbing Guide, 2015

access issues

Some areas are part of Kura Tawhiti Conservation Reserve and managed by the DOC; others are private property.

For access to the main Castle Hill area, you can park in the lot available for the Castle Hill Park which contains some walking trails. These walking trails will also take you to Quantum Field or Spittle Hill. This is one of the easiest areas to get up and get going unless you want to fit in a good hike.

If you want access to Cave Stream, take a 10 minute drive further north along 73 to park at the Cave Stream Park area. To access Flock Hill and Dry Valley, you need to drive 1 kilometre further from Cave Stream's parking area. There will be an obvious park sign. You will then need to take a bit of a hike to get where you need to go.

inherited from Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	★ 1	V1	Boulder
2	★ 2	V0	Boulder
3	3 Mantle.		BoulderProject
4	4	V0	Boulder
5	5	V0	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	★★★ The Fickle Finger of Fate / 6	V3	Boulder 4m
7	★ 7 Sit-start.	V5	Boulder
8	8	V2	Boulder
9	9		BoulderProject
10	★ 10	V2	Boulder 2m
11	★ 11 Mantle.	V4	Boulder 2m
12	12 Mantle.	V0	Boulder 2m
13	13 Mantle.	V3	Boulder
14	14 Mantle.	V2	Boulder
15	15 Mantle.	V1	Boulder
16	★ 16 Sit-start nose.	V3	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★★ 17	V4	Boulder
18	17 sit-start	V8	Boulder
19	★★ 18	V2	Boulder
20	★★★ Nasal Slip	V4	Boulder
21	★ 20	V0	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
22	★★ Ride the Snake / 21	V6	Boulder
23	22	V1	Boulder
24	★ Cherry First move is a dynamic move up to the side pull FA: Tommy, 23 Feb	V3	Boulder
25	★★ The Element / 23	V5	Boulder 5m
26	★ 23 sit-start	V7	Boulder
27	★ Chalice / 24	V2	Boulder 3m
28	25		BoulderProject
29	★ When Animals Attack / 26	V10	Boulder
30	★ The Orb / 29	V8	Boulder
31	28	V0	Boulder
32	29	V2	Boulder
33	29 sit-start		Boulder
34	30 Mantle.	V0	Boulder
35	31 Mantle.	V1	Boulder
36	32	V1	Boulder 3m
37	33	V1	Boulder
38	Chinese Monkey Spines / 34	V2	Boulder
39	★ 35	V1	Boulder
40	36 Mantle.	V2	Boulder
41	★ 37	V2	Boulder 3m
42	★ 38	V3	Boulder 3m
43	39		BoulderProject
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
44	★★ Connect Four / 40	V3	Boulder 3m
45	★★ Connect Four SS	V4	Boulder 3m
46	41	V1	Boulder
47	42	V0	Boulder
48	43	V1	Boulder
49	★★ Pandemonium / 44	V7	Boulder
50	45	V1	Boulder
51	★ 46	V2	Boulder
52	★★ Eldorado / 47	V4	Boulder 6m
53	★ Komodo / 48	V6	Boulder
54	★ Merkaba / 49	V3	Boulder
55	★★ Self Arete / 50	V4	Boulder
56	51	V3	Boulder
57	52	V4	Boulder
58	53		BoulderProject
59	★★ Chocka-Block / 54	V3	Boulder
60	★★ The Letter Box / 55	V5	Boulder
61	★★ 56	V3	Boulder
62	★ 57 Grade:VM	VB+	Boulder
63	58	V0	Boulder
64	59		BoulderProject
65	★ Branded / 60	V5	Boulder
66	★ 61	V7	Boulder
67	62		BoulderProject
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
68	★ Sloper Madness / 63	V6	Boulder
69	★★★ Old School / 64	V4	Boulder
70	65 Mantle.	V0	Boulder
71	66 Mantle.	V0	Boulder
72	67	V0	Boulder
73	68 Jug.	V0	Boulder
74	★★ Bludgeon / 69	V3	Boulder
75	Generator / 70	V5	Boulder
76	71 Mantle.	V3	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
77	72	V1	Boulder
78	73	V1	Boulder
79	74	V0	Boulder
80	★ Fat Lip / 75	V3	Boulder
81	★ Swift / 76	V2	Boulder
82	77 Mantle.	V1	Boulder
83	78	V1	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
84	79 Grade:VM	VB+	Boulder
85	80	V2	Boulder
86	Sendan / 81	V5	Boulder
87	82	V1	Boulder
88	83 Mantle.	V1	Boulder
89	★ 84 Caution: Fatal risk.	V3	Boulder
90	85		BoulderProject
91	86		BoulderProject
92	87		BoulderProject
93	88		BoulderProject
94	★★ Kooshtie / 89 Start on the slanting crack and up to a hueco then to the arete with a slab top.	V4	Boulder
95	★★ Where Love Crawls on All Fours / 90	V5	Boulder
96	★★ The Ultimate Start	V8	Boulder
97	★★★ The Cyclops Boulder / 91	V5	Boulder
98	★★ Diablo / 92	V8	Boulder 5m
Lead routes
100	★★★ Cyclops Slab / CCH15 M11 R59	16	Sport 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
VB+	★	57	Boulder
		79	Boulder
V0		12	Boulder 2m
	★	2	Boulder
	★	20	Boulder
		28	Boulder
		30	Boulder
		4	Boulder
		42	Boulder
		5	Boulder
		58	Boulder
		65	Boulder
		66	Boulder
		67	Boulder
		68	Boulder
		74	Boulder
16	★★★	Cyclops Slab	Sport 9m
V1	★	1	Boulder
		15	Boulder
		22	Boulder
		31	Boulder
		32	Boulder 3m
		33	Boulder
	★	35	Boulder
		41	Boulder
		43	Boulder
		45	Boulder
		72	Boulder
		73	Boulder
		77	Boulder
		78	Boulder
		82	Boulder
		83	Boulder
V2	★	10	Boulder 2m
		14	Boulder
	★★	18	Boulder
		29	Boulder
		36	Boulder
	★	37	Boulder 3m
	★	46	Boulder
		8	Boulder
		80	Boulder
	★	Chalice	Boulder 3m
		Chinese Monkey Spines	Boulder
	★	Swift	Boulder
V3		13	Boulder
	★	16	Boulder
	★	38	Boulder 3m
		51	Boulder
	★★	56	Boulder
		71	Boulder
	★	84	Boulder
	★★	Bludgeon	Boulder
	★	Cherry	Boulder
	★★	Chocka-Block	Boulder
	★★	Connect Four	Boulder 3m
	★	Fat Lip	Boulder
	★	Merkaba	Boulder
	★★★	The Fickle Finger of Fate	Boulder 4m
V4	★	11	Boulder 2m
	★★	17	Boulder
		52	Boulder
	★★	Connect Four SS	Boulder 3m
	★★	Eldorado	Boulder 6m
	★★	Kooshtie	Boulder
	★★★	Nasal Slip	Boulder
	★★★	Old School	Boulder
	★★	Self Arete	Boulder
V5	★	7	Boulder
	★	Branded	Boulder
		Generator	Boulder
		Sendan	Boulder
	★★★	The Cyclops Boulder	Boulder
	★★	The Element	Boulder 5m
	★★	The Letter Box	Boulder
	★★	Where Love Crawls on All Fours	Boulder
V6	★	Komodo	Boulder
	★★	Ride the Snake	Boulder
	★	Sloper Madness	Boulder
V7	★	23 sit-start	Boulder
	★	61	Boulder
	★★	Pandemonium	Boulder
V8		17 sit-start	Boulder
	★★	Diablo	Boulder 5m
	★	The Orb	Boulder
	★★	The Ultimate Start	Boulder
V10	★	When Animals Attack	Boulder
?		25	BoulderProject
		29 sit-start	Boulder
		3	BoulderProject
		39	BoulderProject
		53	BoulderProject
		59	BoulderProject
		62	BoulderProject
		85	BoulderProject
		86	BoulderProject
		87	BoulderProject
		88	BoulderProject
		9	BoulderProject