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Summary

Map 4 in The comprehensive Castle Hill Climbing Guide, 2015

Access issues inherited from Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin

Some areas are part of Kura Tawhiti Conservation Reserve and managed by the DOC, others are private property.

For access to the main Castle Hill area, you can park in the lot available for the Castle Hill Park which contains some walking trails. These walking trails will also take you to Quantum Field or Spittle Hill. This is one of the easiest areas to get up and get going unless you want to fit in a good hike.

If you want access to Flock Hill, Dry Valley or Cave Stream, take a 10 minute drive further north along 73 to park at the Cave Stream Park area. There will be an obvious park sign. You will then need to take a bit of a hike to get where you need to go.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Pockets.

Big buckets.

Little Lost Wall

Crack.

Layback.

Mantle.

Sit-start and traverse.

High Areté.

Mantle.

Grade: VM

Grade: VE

Hop to crimp.

Slopers.

Crack.

Grade: VM

Slopers.

Grade: VE

Buckets. Grade:VM

Start on the hole while smearing and rock-over.

Crack.

Areté

44

Grade: VE

Ledges & crack.

Grade: VM

Grade: VE

Grade: VM

Slab.

Grade: VM

Grade: VE

Crack.

Areté.

Rusty holds.

Traverse.

Brilliant climbing up high arête

Pitch1: 21 Pitch2:24

Easy up to the first bolt, one hard move to get to the second bolt filled by the superbly technical crux up to jugs by the arete. Swing around the arete to finish

FA: John McCallum, 1986

Classic Solo up the off width that turns into a tight chimney at half height

The excellent technical face left of Suicide by Hallucination. Hard start and continually brilliant crux climbing up to the first bolt. After here the grade eases back slightly up to one final crux just before the top. Either pre-clip first bolt or boulder pad is recommended.

FFA: Colin Phol, 1989

FA: Colin Phol, 1989

The thin face left of Moment of greed. Crux at first bolt then eases back to the top. Mega Classic

FA: Roland Foster, 1985

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Map 4 Willy Nilly & Sun Wall.

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