Routes in Doctor's Point

Start in the left corner behind the big pine. There's some awesome quality rock and great exposure for the grade. Expect a bit of sand on the holds until it's had some traffic - and it will get traffic. This is destined to be a classic at the grade. After dispatching the steep, juggy corner, delicately traverse the hanging slab before encountering steep country again.

Probably unclimbable now due to rock fall.

Thrilling climbing once you are in the steep ground – has what it takes to become a classic. Up overlaps to a corner above the Delta Slab, then memorably L to a jug. The last move to the DBB under the roof is the crux. Steve Carr, 1999

The R wing of the Delta Slab is followed to the steep corner. Up and R before moving L to finish at the DBB on the L diagonal ramp under overhangs. Murray Judge, 1999.

On the right hand end of the Delta Slab area at the Arches. Follow the bolts onto a series of hanging slabs. Up the blocky corner to finish high up and left of the pine tree. Murray Judge 2016

The sustained crux sequence high on the headwall is only unlocked when the secret hold is discovered – superlative and worth enduring the inferior climbing to get to it. Steve Carr, 1999.

Another new addition at Doctors' Point sent recently by Navideep Singhbrar. Very steep in the top section, you'll have to put in the work to free this one. 'Sandstorm' goes at grade 21.

Has sharp teeth! A good crux section. Pull steeply and sharply through the initial overlaps past many bolts (you may want to back unclip to prevent rope drag), heading for the deep hanging V corner (crux). Finish as for Gold Digger. Murray Judge, 1999.

Some good moves up the steep arete. A couple of wires before the 1st bolt, then bolt pro the rest of the way. The arete to the DBB on the lower LH corner of the black slab. 2: Up and out L to DBB. (Grade 16)

A couple of new pitches have recently been added to the top section of 'Nervous Wreck' on the Delta Slab at Doctors' Point. 'Nervous Breakdown' diverges rightwards from the first belay and takes you on an atmospheric journey through the overhangs and up into a hanging corner. Ring belay on a small ledge. Now straight up through the fracture in the upper grey wall. These two pitches go at around grade 18 making the whole route 16,18,18. (fully bolted). It's over 30 metres to the ground so you will have to make two rappels or carry a second rope. FFA - Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Dave Brash.

1: Shared start with Tumbleweed, at second bolt traverse left below the grey wall then around arete and up slab to belay. 2: Step up and left to the black slab

Another new route at The Arches at Doctors' Point. A second pitch to 'Black Slab', (the first route to be established in the area in 1998). Move left and follow the weakness up and right. 30 metres to ground with a bit of rope stretch. Also a handy 2nd ring half way down to do a 2nd rapel. FFA Steve Carr/ Mauro Donati. Grade 17, 10 bolts.

Heads up into the V groove.

First route from the left of the Coalition Crag. Starts with a nice cruise up and right to the first anchor. From there it gets more crimpy with good footing heading back left and ends with a small traverse. The 2nd anchor is more exposed but well placed with the last pitch almost directly upwards. From the top rappel down to the 2nd anchor and from there to the ground.

Small incuts provide the solution to move past the last 2 bolts. Matt Squires, 1998.

Some interesting moves (not to mention interesting rock). Keep your eyes peeled for the volcanic glass intrusions.

Begins in a right facing corner and heads up and over a small bulge. Now drift rightwards towards the ring belay.

Lower off to the cliff below. Anchors visible in the boulder in the middle of the crag.

Some hard crimpy moves through the first bulge. Rinse and repeat to the belay ledge.