Mixed in amongst the bouldering routes are a number of sports climbs.
Shares anchors with the leveller
To the left of cave 1
steep line on right of cave
FA: Steve Carr, 2009
Just right of cave 1
FA: Calum Hudson, 2010
Set: 2010
FA: Calum Hudson, 2009
Up the left side of second cave to join the fridge joke
Up the right side of the second cave
Juggy arête
A sidepull has recently snapped off, raising the grade from originally 22.
Start up Flaky Cadbury and veer right instead of reaching left. Continue easily until the thin finish removes complacency.
Set: Steve Carr, 3 Jun 2019
FFA: Sam Henehan, 3 Jun 2019
Pumpy jugs! Grade reflects a direct standing start directly below the first bolt, but high first bolt for your boulder problem start mixing & matching pleasure. Finesse your way over the overhangs, then move left of the corner (avoid the right side of outcrop) and up to the ledge. Finish at the same anchor as Cave Woute.
FFA: Eugene Yeo & Robert Chow, 6 Mar 2021
The rightmost route on far side of northern cave. Traverses left over the cave opening.
FA: Steve Carr, 2012
Pleasant climbing up corner then through the short steep section to chains
Set: John Hamilton, May 2019
FFA: John Hamilton, 31 May 2019
Start under the left hand end of the last cave before the sea. Steeply up and around the bulge on some sharp holds and up the vertical featured wall above. Interesting holds and rock.
FA: Bob Chow, 2022
FA: Steve Carr, 2022
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