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Description
Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford
Access issues
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.
Approach
<5 min
Head for Takaka. About 2km before it, you'll cross a bridge: park in the carpark on the right, shortly before Hangdog Camp. From here, follow the main access trail. Smaller trails head up from this to the base of the crags.
Where to stay
Hangdog Camp is 5 minutes walk from the crag, or there are other options in Takaka. Hangdog also publish a cheap & cheerful guide to the grade 16-23 climbs for $10, available from the camp.
Ethic
Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.
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