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Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach

From the carpark, walk past the gate. At the toilets, turn left up the formed steps: This will bring you up under 'Rawhide'.

Ethic inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

FA: Charlie Creese

Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top.

FA: unknown

In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left?

Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain.

FA: Phil Castle, 2005

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

FA: Kath Meek, 2001

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

FA: Charlie Creese, 1982

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

FA: Spence Pomeroy

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right.

FA: John Row, 1996

FA: John Row, 1996

FA: Colin Daniel, 1993

FA: Willie Butler, 2002

FA: Dave Skilton, 1985

Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back.

Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave.

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

FA: Mike Rockell, 1987

FA: Kristen Foley, 1993

FA: Paul Rogers, 1995

FA: Phil Marsh, 1990

Further climbs to the right are listed under Rata Wall.

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Thu 24 Feb
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