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Access issues inherited from Kawakawa Bay

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

Routes

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Grade Route

The left-facing corner near a Kanuka tree. Bridge and pull through the easy roof, then up and traverse right near the top (don't go between the trees), finishing up The Slot Machine.

FA: Heather Brockway, 2005

The obvious hand crack, take a few #3 cams. Probably quite a hard scary lead if you can't jam.

FA: S King & C Ellery, 2005

A bit of everything. Bridge and layback start, hand jam middle, face climb top. Take some small gear for the top.

FA: M Thom, 2005

Undercut start through blocks onto arete

The right-facing corner and crack system.

FA: Matt Thom & Kevin Barratt, 2005

FA: Stephan King, 2005

The long flake/crack with a small roof low down. Move right around the roof and step up the ledges, then balancy but well protected moves onto the face. Continue more easily up the crack to the DBC belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

On the arete right of flake 7

FA: Martyn Owen, Jan 2017

The long open book corner and thin crack. Start up the unprotected slab to gain the corner. Clip the first 2 bolts of Great Scott if you aren't game for that.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

FA: John Dawkins, 2006

The crack immediately left of The Gecko Groove. 17 if climbed using only the thin crack and face to start.

FA: Matt Thom, 2005

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb.

FA: Stephen King, 2004

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

FA: Stephen King, 2004

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2006

Break off right up the right side of the blunt arete.

Set: -

Alternate start to 'Back to the Future'. Traverse from a crack on the right.

FA: Stephen King, 2006

The serrated finger crack and bridge corner on the face left of Rohan's Little Sister, topping out above its anchors. A good first trad lead, extremely well protected on cams or nuts and hexes. At some point you need to commit to moving across, if you do so at the slot lower down (as per the ground-up first ascent) and just use the crack the grade is about 17.

FA: John Pitcairn, Tim Swain & Rob Addis, 6 Jan 2019

FA: Heather Brockway

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

FA: 4 Apr

The right-facing corner with a hand/fist crack and tight dihedral around the corner from Rohan's Little Sister. Take small cams for the top. Has an independent anchor.

FA: Rob Addis & Colin Megson, Jan 2019

Scramble up right to pre clip the 1st bolt if you don't have a stick clip. Starts in the corner, then head up the slab (avoiding the crack), moving right at the tree, then tackle the improbable-looking upper slab. Great photo spot out right on a bushy ledge above 'The Zoolander Center'.

FA: Mariel Victoria & Dan Head, 6 Mar 2019

Up the short fingertips crack with great difficulty then left to the anchor on Skink Prince. Micro cams essential.

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