Secret Garden




Big slab with a steep face on the right. There are many good easy to moderate sport climbs in close proximity, with some instant classics throughout. The bottom of most routes are well shaded by the canopy, but half way up each climb the canopy opens, providing sun and good views.

Access issues inherited from Kawakawa Bay

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.


As for Welcome Wall, follow the obvious track past Eagle Wall and Dreams Wall.


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Grade Route

The obvious crack on the left side of the boulder. It has been done as a highball (V3) if you dare...

Climb the face just right of Pain Au Chocolat.

FA: Dan Head, May 2020

Up the left hand side of the arete, transitioning onto a slab to the top.

Straight up the crack in the middle of the face.

Up the blunt arete of the right of the boulder.

Go up the main just left of the main slab of Secret Garden

Left most line of bolts on the main wall. Low angle slab, start up big holds and trending slightly left following the bolts, small traverse left then back right and up to the anchors on the face. DBR anchor.

Goes directly up the wall, parallel to Miromiro, then trends slightly left to a separate anchor on the shorter section of the wall. Crux bulge has two options: direct (16) or out left to the original boulder problem (17).

FA: Alice Nathan & Daniel Head, Feb 2020

Set: Alice Nathan & Daniel Head, Feb 2020

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Set: Dan Head, Apr 2019

Start as for ‘Miromiro’ for the 1st 3 bolts then trends slightly right. The original 19 direct exit was rebolted to the right to keep the climb as a sustained 15 and to give the original line to the left (Miromiro), more space. A separate anchor was installed (single ring w/ chain).

FA: Dan Head & Dan Head, 1 Jun 2020

Maint: 1 Mar 2022

Up the obvious crack in the middle of the face, then climbs parallel to Curious Kiwi, placing some good & some average gear (especially at the crux), instead of using the C.K. Bolts out left. Not recommended unless you have triple 0.5's (large finger size) and feel very comfortable at the grade.

FA: Dan Head, Jun 2020

Runs up the central smooth part of the main wall, between Miromiro and Rise of the Sloths, follow the black bolt hangers. Finishes up the vertical groove with a technical second crux to keep you entertained. Originally graded as a hard 20, potentially a grade harder.

An easier variation start is possible by laybacking the crack out left to avoid all the slab crux moves. The top crux in the groove is grade 18 if you want to log this variation.

Set: Dan Head & Alice Heath, 1 May 2020

FA: Dan Head, 1 Jun 2020

1 23 12m
2 19/20 13m

Line of bolts up the middle of the right side of the slab face.

Pitch 1: (23) Up the smoothest part of the wall on small features to a ledge with an anchor on the vertical wall on the right.

Pitch 2: (20) Climb the left side of the wall, over the arete and up to the anchor. Pitches can be linked with a 60cm sling on the anchor of pitch 1.

Set: Dan Head, May 2019

Up the right side of the slab, next to Rise of The Sloths, near the body sized crack. Hard for the grade due to the old school style. Probably a 15.

Keep climbing onto P2 of R.O.T.S. For a nice long pitch dubbed 'Tinkerbella', Grade (19/20).

FA: Alice Heath, Jul 2020

Difficult face and arete climbing, with 2 bolts before and after the crack.

FA: Dan Head

Balancey moves down low give way to easier slab climbing up above, anchors are the same as for Bitten By A Cobra.

FA: Dan Head

Go up the face with interesting moves (can be bypassed by using the tree), good luck and have fun.

FA: Alice Heath

FA: Dan Head, Feb 2020

The overhanging wide crack/corner. Rappel / lower as far right as you can to avoid your rope getting caught in the crack.

Set: Dan Head & Thomas Hermann, Jun 2020

FA: Dan Head & Thomas Hermann, Jul 2020

Fantastic moves on well bolted, slightly overhung face climb, then over the arete to an easy slab top out.

FA: May 2019

Start right of the Animal Farm arete, then up the slab to the anchor

FA: Alice Heath, Jul 2020

Second line of bolts right of 'Animal Farm', start scrambling up on to the ledge then into the groove and follow it straight up the easiest terrain,keep the ledges on your right, trending slightly left on the top slab to the anchor. Double bolt D anchor.

FA: Alice Heath & Dan Head, Mar 2020

Go up the boulder start or use the hand jam on your right to gain the rest of the climb. Continue up and right through the slight overhang, pulling over onto the easy slab finish.

FA: Alice Heath, Mar 2020

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

FA: Dan Head, Mar 2020

The overhanging arete. Packs a lot of good moves in for a short route. Originally graded easy 22, then hard 20, settled on 21. Short beta possible for the crux. Tricky onsight. Originally had 6 bolts for the F.A.

FA: Mar 2020


Climb the face, both adjacent boulders are in as are knee pads... hint hint...

Set: Dan Head

FA: Chris Hailey, 2 Jul 2022

Go up the tight chimney, then into a boulder crux. Can be done as a crack eliminant which goes at 21/22.

FA: Dan Head, Jul 2020

A hard start leads to multiple cruxes high above the forest. Preclipping the first bolt might prove beneficial..

FA: Dan Head, Mar 2020

Cool moves up the left hand arete. Consistant climbing with great flow (once you have the beta sussed).

FA: Jul 2020

Hard onsite, easy redpoint (with good conditions). Great photo spot up and right. Preclip the 1st bolt off the small boulder to avoid an awkward ground fall at the 1st crux.

FA: Henry Booker, Jul 2020

The scariest thing in all of this wood, Alice saw the rock and the rock looked good!

Multiple tecky cruxes and interesting moves make it feel longer and climb better than some other short routes. Great photo spot and views from the belay ledge.

FA: Alice Heath & Dan Head, 16 Mar 2021

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