Routes in Darran Mountains

If one reads the guidebook description with at least one eye open, it will be apparent that this route and the Price/ Scott route are the same. Sorry guys, we were there first!

If one reads the guidebook description with at least one eye open, it will be apparent that this route is the same as the Biggs/ Hudson route. Sorry guys, we were there first! Calum.

This route takes the obvious big roof-capped corner straight to the summit.

Follow a shallow groove on the far left side of Moir's Mate, just right of the ridge.

Start up an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove left of Strobe Light.

Large right to left crack system on the left side of the Diamond Face.

Variation of Rough Diamond, joining at the 3rd pitch. Start up the Rough Diamond crack for 20m, but continue climbing up to a belay. Follow some grooves then trend right to rejoin the original route.

On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

Direct start to the Garden Trowel Route on the right of the original corners.

Variation of the Garden Trowel Route. Pitch one is the same, then climb through the steep wall and overlap directly above.

On the right of the Diamond Face, follow grassy slabs trending up and right to the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height.

P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges)

P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay.

P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it.

P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m.

P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof.

P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the crack on the left.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the wall between the cracks.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: crack to the right of Between the Lines.

An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike.

The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays.

A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo

Starting at the broken ledges, move left before straightening and climbing up the left side of the headwall. Continue right past the roofs to finish up the split headwall crack.

Start as for the Central Line, then turn right under the overhangs at the top slabs. Climb up a steep finger crack and up a groove to the top.

Starting from the broken ledges, climb right to a corner system then up a slab. Rap 20m down and left before climbing a gulley to the obvious overhang, then right and up to the summit.

Variation of Fantini Coradine.

Direct finish variation of Fantini Coradine.

Left side of the cliff.

Start on the slabs left of the arches.

Start up the easy slab below the overhanging arches.

Start off the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. First 5 pitches originally aid climbed, last 2 pitches freed. The route trends up and left to a small roof near the top of the face.

Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow a corner to some left-leaning ramps, then over the right side of the cliff.

Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow ledge systems up and left, then through a series of cracks to a lone right-facing corner on the edge of the cliff.

Start at the right side of the cliff, right of the arch and after starting to scramble up to the Moir ledges. A bolt and maillon marks the start of the route, about 15m above the ledges and slightly left. Bolted belays.