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The Watchtower

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 2
7
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

The obvious tower on the left as seen from the road.

Access issues inherited from Borland Valley

From early May to mid October, the road to the Borland crags is closed. Though winter here is not suitable for cragging due to seepage. But for those determined enough, a bike can be ridden up the road.

Approach

Park up when the road side crags come into view. Walk up the bank and down to the left most pylon. Here a cairn marks the start of a flagged track up through beech forest to the base of the Watch Tower.

Where to stay

Borland lodge

Ethic

Do not bolt the cracks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Below the Whachtower are three large fallen boulders, just to the left of the track approaching the crag. The lower boulder has this stunning line. Start both hands in the lowest part of the crack. Use the diagonal features to move up right to the protruding nose on the lip. A lower start is yet to be done.

The left most route on this wall. Climb the slabby face over the small overlap (crux) past three BR's before moving up and left through the ledge system to a double bolt anchor in a corner.

FA: Tony Burnell

P1, Starts 5m to the right of Real Journeys. Undercling start off ledge. Thin moves gains a big ledge. Mantle and traverse the break left and up on easier ground to the anchor and start of MSC.

FA: Adam Herbstritt

The exposed route above Energetic Dissasembly. Climb the short corner, step right and pull onto the face and out to the arete. A hard sequence and clip gains a rest and easier but athletic climbing to a great finale'. A few ascents should clear off a bit more of the moss on the upper wall.

FA: Owen Davies

Right most route on the real journeys wall. Technical slab leading to overhanging flake. Great climbing but needs a dry spell.

FA: Joe Ward

Climbs the full length of the gently overhanging golden wall facing the gully.

FA: Owen Davies

Climb The Autumn Tower to the fourth bolt before following the crack that cuts off diagonally right across the lower face of the wall to end by the bush.

FA: Owen Davies

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