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Description

The central area of Moir's Mate, right of Bowen Allan Corner on the Diamond Face.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 16 30m
2 18 32m
3 20 30m
4 14 30m
5 21 30m
6 21 30m
7 21 30m
8 18 30m
9 21 30m
10 20 30m

An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike.

FA: Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock & Jonathan Gillian, 2016

1 15 25m
2 19 30m
3 18 30m
4 12 60m
5 22 20m
6 21 25m
7 21 30m
8 21 30m
9 21 30m

The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays.

FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2013

1 18 55m
2 18 45m
3 18 30m
4 19 45m
5 20 25m
6 20 25m
7 13 50m

A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo

FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010

Starting at the broken ledges, move left before straightening and climbing up the left side of the headwall. Continue right past the roofs to finish up the split headwall crack.

FA: Murray Jones & Keith Nannery, 1969

Start as for the Central Line, then turn right under the overhangs at the top slabs. Climb up a steep finger crack and up a groove to the top.

FA: Merv English, Dave Fearnley & Calum Hudson, 1983

Starting from the broken ledges, climb right to a corner system then up a slab. Rap 20m down and left before climbing a gulley to the obvious overhang, then right and up to the summit.

FA: Paul Coradine & John Fantini, 1970

Variation of Fantini Coradine.

FA: Robin McNeill & Hugh Van Noorden, 1985

Direct finish variation of Fantini Coradine.

FA: Neal Mathieson & Hugh Widdowson, 1988

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