Routes as sport in Sebastapol Bluffs

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Showing all 51 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Unwin Crag Left sector
16 Fringe benefit

Left most line of bolts. Start on boulders in stream bed and up just right of arete. Crux above small ledge between bolts 6/7. Angle right to double bolt belay. Rap 25m.

FFA: Ray Button & Dave Alderson, 2011

Sport 28m, 9
16 Whispering grass

Middle line of bolts in wall. Start in stream bed and up bolted crack system. Good holds appear when you need them. Through overlap and up to chains.

FFA: Ray Button, 9 Apr 2012

Sport 25m, 9
16 Pinot

Right hand line of bolts.

FFA: Ray Button, 2012

Sport 23m, 8
Unwin Crag Right sector
15 Secret squirrel arete

FFA: Ray Button, 15 Dec 2012

Sport 54m, 2, 10
Javelin Wall
18 Growly Girl

FA: Trev street, 2008

Sport 15m, 4
19 The Old Bastard

FA: Sandra Martin, 2008

Sport 15m, 4
18 Five Hour Commute

FFA: Ruari MacFarlane & Sophie, Oct 2012

Sport 30m, 7
23 Olympic Feet

FFA: Jane Morris, Feb 2013

Sport 25m, 6
17 Five Ring Circus

Nice bridging along a left corner. You might want to place a cam before the first bolt for protection.

FFA: Murray Judge & Nick Begg, Oct 2012

Sport 30m, 10
Crimea Wall
17 Shell Shock

FFA: Murray Judge, Feb 2013

Sport 12m, 5
18 Shrapnel

FFA: Rob Connolly, Feb 2012

Sport 10m, 3
15 Holy Alliance
1 13
2 15

FFA: Dave Brash & Aoraki Polytech students, Mar 2015

Sport 35m, 2, 14
19 The Charge of the Light Brigade

FFA: Murray Judge, Jan 2013

Sport 7
Orange Wall
20 The Bitter End

FFA: Rob Connolly, Feb 2012

Sport 15m, 6
16 Lemon & Lime

FFA: Murray Judge, Feb 2012

Sport 10m, 4
16 Mandarin

FFA: Murray Judge, Feb 2012

Sport 10m, 4
20 Squirt

FA: Tom MacTavish, Oct 2011

Sport 12m, 3
20 Jaffa

FA: Jane Morris, May 2011

Sport 18m, 5
19 Bitter Sweet

FA: Tom MacTavish & Murray Judge, May 2011

Sport 22m, 7
17 Freshly Squeezed

FA: Murray Judge, Oct 2011

Sport 26m, 8
19 Clementine

FFA: Murray Judge, Feb 2012

Sport 28m, 9
21 The Orange Men

FFA: Rob Connolly & John Hamilton, Feb 2012

Sport 30m, 14
21 Peeled Back

FA: Paul Aubrey, 1980

FFA: Jane Morris & Murray Judge, 2011

Sport 30m, 9
19 Unnamed Route

Long route on RH S of red wall crossing two overlaps and diagonals to the upper R of the wall.

FA: 25 Apr 2016

Sport 45m, 12
21 Rodeo Drive
1 21
2 18

FFA: Murray Judge & John Hamilton, 2012

Sport 2, 19
21 Bucking Alley

FFA: Murray Judge & John Hamilton, 13 Mar 2016

Sport 9
Twin Cracks
18 Lunar Landing Sport 55m, 10
17 Bert Sport 35m
16 Mako

FA: 2000

Sport 63m, 2
revenge of the podge
20 Revenge of the Podge

FA: Brent shears

Sport 35m, 8
23 a slovakian nightmare

FA: cory green, 2008

Sport 25m, 8
20 Poison Dwarf

FA: Kylie wakelin, 1999

Sport 10m, 4
19 Seamstress

Pitch1 10m grade 18 pitch2 10m grade 19

FA: Kylie wakelin

Sport 20m, 2, 6
atomic punk / Lunar Wall
23 Drug Abuse

Run out!

FA: Paul Aubrey, 1980

Sport 45m
18 Nicked

Run out! Has rap anchors half way up.

FA: Nick cradock, 1983

Sport 55m, 10
19 Lunar Tick

Bring two ropes to get down - although apparently it is possible to rap across to the anchors half way up Nicked.

FA: Brent Shears, 1999

Sport 50m, 10
Red Wall
16 Let's Go Bush Walking

P1 15 P2 16 (Don't bother - scrubby).

Best to do P1 of this then traverse right into P2 of Shark Attack.

Sport 60m, 2
16 Shark Attack
1 14
2 16

Starts just left of where the track arrives.

FA: Nick Cradock, 1980

Sport 87m, 2, 20
15 Red Arete
1 14 37m
2 13 36m
3 15 20m

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

  1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

  2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

  3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

    Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

FA: Tom Fyfe, 1894

Sport 93m, 3, 28
13 Link pitch

Unnamed link pitch between P1 of Let's go bushwalking and Mako

Sport 20m
16 Mako

Overgraded and incorrectly named "Kermit" on the 2012 Sebastopol brochure. From the anchor at the top of the first (50m) pitch of Shark Attack, climb up a couple of meters and head left through the bushes to find its start anchor. Either reanchor there, or just continue up without clipping the anchor to avoid drag. After reaching the next anchor, follow the bolts left again and though the overlap.

FA: C.Burtenshaw & AATC students

Sport 63m, 2
18 Ernie Sport 35m
Kingfisher Area
19 Dirty Digits

FA: Ray Button & Troy Kirwin, 1999

Sport 35m, 9
19 Seriass

FA: Tony dignan, 1982

Sport 35m, 10
18 Keep Left Arete Sport 35m, 9
Poo Pond Crag
16 Scorpions sting

Arete. Chain Anchor.

Set by BJ Veasey

Sport 25m
14 The snout

Climb the narrow rib in the trees moving R at 2/3 height. Chain Anchor.

Set by Anton Wopereis & Sam Bosshard

Sport 22m
13 Nature's Good Will

Short climb left of the Poo Pond slab over a small bulge - better than it looks.

Set by BJ Veasey

16 Poo pond slab

The original route started on the R of the face to the ledge then a 2nd pitch above. Two pitches that probably deserve more traffic than they get.

P1. A line of bolts (mossy?) on the R of the wall to the ledge. 21m Grade 16

P2. Interesting climbing.The first bolts are remarkably close together then the gap and the clips get further apart. 30m Grade 15

Set by Anton Wopereis & Sam Bosshard

Sport 50m, 2
19 Right hand slab

line of bolts right of poo pond slab. Thin and fun!

Sport 15m, 3
Central Crags
18 Nicked Sport 170m, 5, 41

Showing all 51 routes.

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