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Red Wall

8
AU

Seasonality

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Description

most popular wall of the sebastopol bluffs, for route description please refer to http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-river/sebastopol-bluffs/red-wall

Approach

driving from unwin lodge park at the third bay after the bridge then follow the track

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Routes

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Grade Route

P1 15 P2 16 (Don't bother - scrubby).

Best to do P1 of this then traverse right into P2 of Shark Attack.

FA: Nick craddock, 1980

1 14 37m
2 13 36m
3 15 20m

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

  1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

  2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

  3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

    Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

FA: Tom Fyfe, 1894

Unnamed link pitch between P1 of Let's go bushwalking and Mako

Overgraded and incorrectly named "Kermit" on the 2012 Sebastopol brochure. From the anchor at the top of the first (50m) pitch of Shark Attack, climb up a couple of meters and head left through the bushes to find its start anchor. Either reanchor there, or just continue up without clipping the anchor to avoid drag. After reaching the next anchor, follow the bolts left again and though the overlap.

FA: C.Burtenshaw & AATC students

An alternative start to Red Arete, starting 3m right of that route and climbing to the belay station at the top of the first pitch. Anton Wopereis

mix trad and bolted

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