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Summary

Langdale Buttress is considered to have some of the best quality rock in the Mt Cook National Park.

Description

A couple of single and multi pitch routes have recently been developed along with some older trad lines.

Access issues

The Beetham valley access has been continually deteriorating due to Moraine erosion. The Reay Valley access is straight forward as of Nov 20. Speak to DOC about current conditions.

Approach

By Foot: Walk to Ball Shelter navigating the Husky Flat slip (3-4 hours). Descend garbage gully and cross the moraine to the Reay Valley. Ascend the Reay on the true right. Head over Pt 1801 and 1954 before climbing up to the Langdale glacier (approx 10 hours).

A helicopter up the Tasman to the white ice is recommended to cut down on the approach.

Where to stay

Good camping spots can be found on the north edge of the Langdale glacier.

Routes

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Grade Route

Could use a cam to protect the first move.

FA: Andy Tindall, Jan 2017

FA: Dave Lewis, 2017

1 19
2 18
3 19
4 20

FA: Nick Cradock & Guy Cotter, Mar 2020

1 16
2 15
3 17
4 18
5 18

Fully Bolted, with 30m rap stations. Ascends the lower blunt arete of the buttress (1.5 pitches) then moves on the buttress proper. Climbs the right side of the face then finishes on a thin arete.

FA: Mt Cook Ski Club, 2020

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