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1 14 37m
2 13 36m
3 15 20m

description

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

  1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

  2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

  3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

    Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Route history

1894First ascent: Tom Fyfe

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -43.75009, 170.11130

Grade citation

14,13,15 Assigned grade
Robin Jodon
zac
Chris
14 South Island Rock

Seasonality

J
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A
M
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 106 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 59
Flash 2
Red point 4
Tick 47
Top rope 3
Attempt 1
Target 2

Comment keywords

fun exciting enjoyable satisfying classic great awesome amazing sweet nice good super cool solid hard scary easy interesting cruisy arete epic

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