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Description

Outdoor climbing right by a great cave system with stream and glow worms.

Access issues inherited from Waipu Caves

Two of the walls have been closed due to being on private land. Cave Wall is still available to the public.

Approach

On State Highway 1 heading North from Auckland you turn left into Shoemaker Road (heading inland). You hit a T junction with Mountfield and turn left, shortly after make another left turn into Waipu Caves Road. Follow this until the sign posted Caves Gate on your right. If you park by the orange post you can walk across the small concrete bridge directly to Cave Wall.

Descent notes

All climbs on Cave Wall can be set up from above either using provided bolts or trees as anchors.

Ethic inherited from Waipu Caves

The climbs are aimed to be kept in as natural state as possible so where possible bolts are avoided and trees can be used as anchors.

History

History timeline chart

The other two walls are closed as they are located on private land.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

On the "Wet Entrance Wall" Th e stream disappears underground about 50m south-east of the cave dry entrance. Start on the far bank. Climb past two parallel cracks to a bulge. Move right over the bulge and direct to the top. Natural pro, tree belay.

FA: Alan Hill & Andrew Mumford, 1991

Start at the right-hand side of the cave entrance, from the earthy ledge behind the tree. Climb the bulge, move slightly right then up through small overhangs to the top.

To the right of the cave is a tree, you can belay from this point and climb up and to the left (over the cave entrance, have your belayer watch for people coming into and out of the cave).

It's a trad climb that leads up and over the large block at the top, the belay anchors are on the back wall of the block, either loooong slings or cord is helpful to set up a top rope.

FA: Alan Hill & Stuart Smith, 1991

At the left hand end of the wall by the cave entrance is a large flake that juts out to the left. Climb up and behind this flake, heading right and up the natural staircase past the trees to the top.

FA: unknown

To the left the wall degenerates to a tree-lined slope before outcropping again. Start 2m to the left of the second tree growing at the foot of the cliff . Climb to a sharp edge and large hole, then up a groove.

Climb the pointy flake that leads up to the pocketed wall above, the Crux is getting established on this. There are a few good holds but many are slopers and watch out for the moss and lichen that really make you feel you're climbing in a Jungle.

A metre to the left is an open corner with a thin crack. Climb this, then move left to finish up a waterworn groove.

FA: Alan Hill & Stuart Smith, 1991

Climb the green wall in between two large trees. Tending rightwards. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

The route starts at the next sizeable outcrop some 15m to the left . Climb to a small overhang below the tree with protruding flake (what!?). Move right to gain a ledge, and finish by the right-hand tree.

FA: Alan Hill & Andrew Mumford, 1991

Climb past two bolts on jugs and slopers. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown

Climb up past a single bolt on juggy flakes. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

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