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Description

Steep cranking, permadraws, sika and link-ups.

The crag with the greatest concentration of hard routes in Aotearoa / New Zealand.

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Routes

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The first five routes are on the face above the cave.

Closed

Single bolt anchor. Significant earthquake damage/ choss at the top. Dangerous.

FA: Perry Logan

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

Start to the top left of gorilla grip / she devil Traverse right then follow the bolts up to a double ring belay station.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Start at the very left side of the cave and at the 4th bolt head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998

Formerly the "warm-up", begins on the extreme left side of the cave.

FA: Tom Hoyle, 2005

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

Start as for Super Glue but continue traversing right and finish up Gorilla Grip. Awesome endurance climb.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

The horizontal line which traverses almost half of The Cave. Start as for She Devil, pass Gorilla Grip and continue along the seam which leads to Bogus Machismo. A mediocre rest after the long traverse provides some recovery for the weird and very wide crux.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2004

Cave classic and always climbed on. Most people's first climb here. Start up the short slab and continue straight up to the chains over the lip of the cave. Most people jump off the top instead of clipping the chains to avoid destroying their rope.

FA: Matt Evrard, 1993

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Zac Orme, 2019

Seven boulder problems between jugs.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2014

Start up Troglodyte and finish up the chains of Bogus.

FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2013

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Start in the corner and, once up a bit, drift left via a very long section of consistently very hard moves to the lip of The Cave.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Start up the line of bolts to the right of Kaz's, climb up to a dyno and then traverse into the pigeon pod on Ride of the Valkyries. Extension into the top of Bogus is "Snake Charmer (29)"

FA: John McCallum, 1994

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

Line to the left of Bogus. V10 boulder to the pigeon pod leads into the top of Bogus Machismo.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped.

FA: Peter Taw, 1994

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2015

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Start up Bogus but go right at the 4th bolt into the no hands rest. From here continue up and right to the lip of the cave. Was originally climbed by Alex Palman with glued holds at 29, and recently broke to become harder again.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Hard boulder problem to start into rest hole, and continue up into an inverted crux!

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021

FA: Josh Cornah, 2020

Classic. Line directly to the left of Dracula, climb up the vague arete and then straight up. Continue up through another crux to the lip of the cave for the extended version.

FA: Matt Evrard, 1994

FA: Kaz Pucia, 1995

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Classic power endurance line, direct start to Nosferatu. Was originally 32 but has gone down due to hold breakage and poor re-gluing.

FA: Kaz Pucia, 2003

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021

FA: Max Farr, 2008

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

FA: Kaz Pucia, 2005

FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2014

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004

Start up line to the right of Dracula. Climb hard boulder problem to link into and finish up Dracula.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2002

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

Closed

Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start.

FA: Brian Alder, 1993

Cave classic. Interesting, sustained moves that slowly get harder as you go.

Sustained, funky, bouldery moves on the right hand side of the cave. Starts on a large bulge about 5m left of the waterfall. Equipped with permadraws and a lower-off.

FA: Peter Taw, 1993

Go halfway up Bolts and break right at the big blob. Some long moves lead you to the anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2017

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2014

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2002

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

Cool start into a small rest, and then sustained climbing into a hard move through the roof.

FA: Peter Taw, 1993

Start up Attack Mode but continue straight up.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998

Start up Attack mode but move right and through the roof.

FA: Alex Palman, 1998

FA: Lucas Dowell, 2020

The following routes are 50 metres right of The Superbowl.

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