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The Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 241
  • Aka: The Superbowl

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Description

Steep cranking, permadraws, sika and link-ups.

The crag with the greatest concentration of hard routes in Aotearoa / New Zealand.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first five routes are on the face above the cave.

Closed

Single bolt anchor. Significant earthquake damage/ choss at the top. Dangerous.

FA: Perry Logan

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

Start to the top left of gorilla grip / she devil Traverse right then follow the bolts up to a double ring belay station.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right past 3 bolts, then head straight up via big moves to reach the jug rail. Follow this right to the Super Glue anchors.

Start at the extreme left side of the cave and commence traversing right on jugs. At the 4th bolt, head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave. Significantly harder after losing a crucial jug.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998

Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right on jugs to join Rubble at the 5th bolt. As for Rubble, there is no anchor so just jump off.

Start as for Super Glue, and traverse right as for Shrubble. Like She Devil, this line finishes up Gorilla Grip. However, instead of joining GG at Rubble's 4th bolt, continue higher to the 5th bolt of Rubble and traverse right to join GG from here.

FA: Tom Hoyle, 2005

Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble and the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, to join Kaz's Project at the big rest. Finish as for this route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble to join and finish up Gorilla Grip. Awesome endurance climb.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998

The horizontal line which traverses almost half of The Cave. Start as for She Devil, pass Gorilla Grip and continue along the seam which leads to Bogus Machismo. A mediocre rest at the flat ledge allows for a modicum of recovery before attacking Bogus' final crux.

Set: Ivan Vostinar

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

The most mega of the mega Cave linkups. Start as for Super Glue, cross Rubble and Gorilla Grip, then drop down to the good jug on Troglodyte. Continue up and right as for Phantom to the sloper jug on Kaz's. Soldier on past nearly every route in the cave, angling up and right to finally finish at the top of Space Boy.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

The line of bolts immediately to the left of Gorilla Grip. Ascend to a distinct crux above the 3rd bolt, then continue up to top out through a slot left of the bolt line. Jump off.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2004

Cave classic and always climbed on. Most people's first climb here. Start up the short slab and continue straight up to the chains over the lip of the cave. Most people jump off the top instead of clipping the chains to avoid destroying their rope.

FA: Matt Evrard, 1993

Start as for Gorilla Grip. At the third bolt, veer right to the good jug on Troglodyte, then veer up and left to rejoin GG at the 5th bolt and finish as for the original.

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

Same as for Elephant Tits, but after zigging back left to the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, zag right again to join Kaz's Project and top out as for this route.

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

Climb Gorilla Grip to the 3rd bolt, then traverse right to the good jug on Troglodyte. Keep angling up and right to the good rest before the final crux of Kaz's, then finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

Same as for the Phantom, but at the good rest near the top of Kaz's, continue right to the flat ledge at the penultimate bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Similar to Phantom Menace, but traverses one level lower. After reaching the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip, head right but instead of going up to the good rest at the penultimate bolt of Kaz's, traverse straight right to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Similar to Phantom Machismo, but upon reaching the 'one jug' feature above the pigeon perch on Hung Like Elvis, go up and left, then back right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that line.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Starts between Gorilla Grip and Troglodyte. Climb up to the good jug at the 4th draw of Trog, then head left to join GG and finish as for that route.

FA: Zac Orme, 2019

The line of bolts all the way at the back of the central cave. Ascend to the 3rd draw then angle left to eventually join Gorilla Grip. Seven boulder problems between jugs.

Set: Ivan Vostinar

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

Climb Troglodyte to its 3rd bolt, then traverse right to join Kaz's Project at the slopers. Finish as for that line.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2014

Start up Troglodyte. At its 3rd draw, traverse right all the way to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2013

Same as for Hydroplaning, but upon latching the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, follow the line of bolts angling up and right to finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Climb Kaz's Project to the slopers at the 5th bolt, then drop down to the level of the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip. From here, climb GG to its finish.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

Climb Kaz's to the 5th bolt, then continue to angle up and left to the heel hook at the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Climb Kaz's project to the rest at the 8th bolt, then traverse hard right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus. Finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Start in the corner at the right side of the deepest part of the cave. Technical climbing leads up and left via a very long section of consistently very hard moves to the lip of the cave.

Set: Kaz Pucia

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007

Climb Kaz's to the dyno at the 4th bolt, then angle up and right to the kneebar rest at the 7th bolt of Bogus. Climb to the next bolt of Bogus, then at the 'boobs', go up and right to finish on the Hauser anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Start up the line of bolts to the right of Kaz's. Climb up to a dyno and then traverse into the pigeon pod of Ride of the Valkyries. Finish here on a single bolt.

FA: John McCallum, 1994

Climb Hung Like Elvis to the pigeon pod, then continue up to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch (just left of the pigeon pod). From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left, then join Kaz's Project at its 7th bolt. Finish as for Kaz's.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse left to link into and finish as for Kaz's.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left. At the 'one jug' feature below the horizontal crack, traverse right to the 8th bolt of Bogus at the 'boobs'. Finish up Bogus.

Set: Derek Thatcher

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

The line of bolts that starts at a dark patch of rock left of Bogus. V10 boulder to the pigeon pod. Link into the top of Bogus Machismo via the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt.

Set: Rodney Newburn

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003

Starts immediately left of Bogus. Climb straight up to the first kneebar of Bogus at its 5th bolt, then finish as for Bogus.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Climb Bogus to the second kneebar (6th bolt). From here, downclimb left to the pigeon perch, go up one bolt, then traverse hard left across Kaz's to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt, then finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Climb Bogus to the flat ledge at its 9th bolt. From here, traverse hard left all the way to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped.

Set: Matt Evrard

FA: Peter Taw, 1994

Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Instead of angling up and left, go up and right to finish at the Hauser anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2015

Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at its 8th bolt. From here, traverse right all the way to finish at the Space Boy anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019

Climb Bogus to the first kneebar at the 6th bolt. Angle up and right to join the Enigma of Kasper Hauser and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Start up Bogus but go right at the 4th bolt into the no hands rest. From here continue up and right to the lip of the cave. Was originally climbed by Alex Palman with glued holds at 29, and recently broke to become harder again.

Set: Alex Palman

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004

Climb Bogus to the 4th bolt, then traverse right to join Kaiser Soze. At the undercling rest, instead of going straight up, traverse right all the way to the Space Boy finish.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007

Start as for Bogus, then above the 4th bolt traverse right, then down across Enigma to the 'hanging slab' feature. From here, diagonal up and right to finish at the Wilhelm anchors.

Set: Andy Cockburn

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

Start at the line of bolts just to the right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at Bogus' 4th bolt, then finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

Start at the line of bolts just right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at the 4th bolt of Bogus, then continue straight up into the crux of Kaiser Wilhelm and finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016

The line of bolts just right of The Baron. Hard boulder problem to start into rest hole. From here, continue up into an inverted crux! Finish at the anchor just to the right of Bogus.

Set: Matt Evrard

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

Start as for Enigma of Kasper Hauser, then after the crux head up and right to finish as for Kaiser Soze.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003

Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but instead of trending left climb straight up through the hanging slab and the prominent undercling, to finish as for Kaiser Soze.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but at the hanging slab feature, break right and finish at the anchor to the right of the Kaiser Soze anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

Starts at the line of bolts just left of the start of Space Boy. Climb up and right into the pod at the 5th bolt on Space Boy and finish up this line.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021

Start as for Space Boy, but upon reaching the pod at the 5th bolt, instead of angling right continue straight up to the Underworld anchors.

FA: Josh Cornah, 2020

Classic. Line directly to the left of Dracula. Climb the vague arête to the pod, then angle right, following the line of permadraws. Continue through another crux to the lip of the cave for the extended version.

FA: Matt Evrard, 1994

FA: Kaz Pucia, 1995

Climb Space Boy, but at the 7th bolt, instead of going straight up, angle right to finish at a lower anchor to the right of the small tree.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Classic power endurance line, and the direct start to Nosferatu. Was originally 32 but has been downgraded due to hold breakage and poor re-gluing. Follow the line of bolts just right of Space Boy, angling slight right until you reach the wet jug. From here, join Nosferatu.

Set: Kaz Pucia

FA: Kaz Pucia, 2003

An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Invader anchors.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021

An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Boy anchors.

FA: Max Farr, 2008

Start as for Dracula, but at the wet jug, instead of joining Nosferatu continue to traverse right to finish at the Urge anchors.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

The line of bolts between Dracula and Nosferatu. Climb straight up then right, crossing Nosferatu, to finish at the Urge anchors.

Set: Kaz Pucia

FA: Kaz Pucia, 2005

Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse hard left all the way to join Bogus Machismo and finish as for that route.

FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2014

Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse left to join Space Boy and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004

Start on the vague pillar to the right of Dracula. Pull a hard boulder problem, then join Dracula at the wet jug.

Set: Peter Taw

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2002

Start just to the left of Let There Be Bolts. Climb up and slightly right, then join the top of Bolts at the final roof.

Set: Andy Cockburn

FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005

Closed

Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start.

FA: Brian Alder, 1993

Cave classic. Interesting, sustained moves that slowly get harder as you go.

Sustained, funky, bouldery moves on the right hand side of the cave. Starts on a large bulge about 5m left of the waterfall. Equipped with permadraws and a lower-off.

FA: Peter Taw, 1993

Go halfway up Bolts and break right above the big blob. Some long moves lead you to the Attack Mode anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

Start up Bolts, then break right at the third bolt, cross the black streak, and angle up and right to finish as for Attack Mode.

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2017

Start immediately to the right of Let There Be Bolts, then at the 3rd draw and footcam of Bolts, angle left to join and finish as for that route.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Start to the right of the black streak, right of Let There Be Linkups. Upon attaining the pockets about halfway up the wall, move left then back right to the Attack Mode anchor.

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2014

Start just to the right of Retrograde, move up to the pockets about halfway up the wall, then finish at the Attack Mode anchor.

Set: Richard Dale

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2002

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left all the way to the Bogus Machismo anchor. A massive linkup of the entire right side of the Cave!

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, and traverse left to the Nosferatu anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to finish at the Urge anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to the good holds between bolts 4 and 5 of Let There Be Bolts. From here, go back right to the Attack Mode anchor.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008

Bouldery start leads left to good pockets, then back right with sustained climbing and some hard moves through the roof.

FA: Peter Taw, 1993

Start as for Attack Mode but instead of angling left to the pockets after the initial boulder problem, angle right to the Iceman anchor, skirting to the left side of the roof.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998

Start as for Attack Mode. After the initial boulder problem, angle right and climb straight through the roof.

FA: Alex Palman, 1998

Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left to the Attack Mode anchor.

FA: Lucas Dowell, 2020

Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left, skirting around the left side of the roof, to finish at the Iceman anchor.

The right-most route inside the Cave. A bouldery start leads to a rest at the ledge. Finish up and right at the manky anchor.

The following routes are 50 metres right of The Superbowl.

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