Bivvy Rock Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Bivvy Rock 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -43.626361, 172.627928

summary

Set in a lovely spot looking down over Lyttelton Harbour and Governors Bay. The crag is sunny until early afternoon, is sheltered from the southerly but not so if from the North-West.

description

See https://guides.porthillsclimbing.nz/Minor-Port-Hills-Crags-Rev-G.pdf for Tony Burnell's excellent PDF guide.

approach

Drive south from Sign of the Kiwi for 3 km. The Cliff is on the left and is clearly visible from car park. Walk uphill on the Crater Rim Track from car and join Ella's track which leads to base of cliff.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Far Right Slab A recently developed wall currently sporting four bolted routes. Names, grade, FAs unknown. Easy slab climbing likely in the 9-12 grade range.
2		★ Unnamed - far right		Sport 10m, 4
3		Unnamed - middle right	10	Sport 10m, 5
4		★ Unnamed - middle left	10	Sport 10m, 7
5		★ Unnamed - far left		Sport 11m, 6
Siesta Wall
7		★ Apnea FA: Simon Courtois, 2022	18	Sport 15m, 6
8		★ Awake To A Shake FA: Simon Courtois	17	Sport 15m, 7
9		★ Brokeback Mountain FA: Simon Courtois	19	Sport 15m, 7
10		★ Insomnia FA: Simon Courtois, 2013	17	Sport 15m, 7
11		★ Faux Fur FA: Simon Courtois	17	Sport 15m, 7
12		★ Ruperts Blanket FA: Wendy & Simon Courtois, 2007	16	Sport 15m, 7
13		★ SNAFU FA: Tony Burnell, 2022	21	Sport 15m
The Prow Area
15		We Ain’t Playing Tiddlywinks, Mate Warning Fixed Gear: Missing 2 or more bolt hangers. FA: Howie McGee, 2012	20	Sport 20m, 6
16		★ Sleeping Beauty Shares first bolt as Cold Ground before moving directly up above ledge. Crux fall could land you on ledge. FA: Owain Scullion & Tom Stubbs, 2017	21	Sport 20m, 6
17		★ Cold Ground FA: Dave Shotwell, 2008	20	Sport 20m, 5
18		★★ Matrix FA: Tony Burnell, Apr 2022	18	Sport 15m, 5
19		Pillar Talk Destroyed during the earthquakes. FA: Simon Courtois, 2007	17	Sport 20m, 5
20		★★★ Let Me Sleep On It FA: Simon Courtois, 2007	20	Sport 20m, 7
21		★★ Dirty Dreams FA: Simon Courtois, 2012	18	Sport 20m, 8
22		★★ Sleep When You're Dead FA: Owain Scullion & Tom Stubbs, 2016	18	Sport 20m, 5
Main Wall Area
24		★ Duncan's Route FA: Duncan Sherratt, 2012	18	Sport 20m, 6
25		★★ Pyro-technic Cool route up overhang. FA: Warrick Matheson, 2017	21	Sport 20m, 9
26		★ Dustpipe Bouldery start on slopers to easier finish. FA: Tony Burnell, 28 Mar 2019	21	Sport 17m, 7
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
27		★ Ash Vegas Climb under the overhang, squeeze out left, use crack system and follow line of bolts. FA: Tony Burnell, 23 Nov 2018	21	Sport 25m, 9
28		★ Missing Link FA: Tony Burnell, 10 Mar 2019	22	Sport 20m, 7
29		★★ Annihilation Mix FA: Tony Burnell, 23 Nov 2018	24	Sport 20m, 9
30		★ Slip Of The Tongue FA: Owen Davies, 2022	26	Sport 20m
31		★ Compression Test FA: Tony Burnell, 14 Dec 2018	25	Sport 20m, 7
32		XX Set: Grant Piper, 2018 FA: Tony Burnell, Nov 2018	21	Sport 8
33		★ 4X Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off. FA: Tony Burnell, 10 Apr 2022	25/26	Sport 18m, 6
34		★ Pressure Gauge Start immediately right of Ground Zero, with a staple for the first bolt. Follow a line of FHs up a series of ledges to reach a hanging scoop. Surmount the morpho crux and continue easily to the Ground Zero anchor. FA: David Jefferson, 15 Jul 2023	25	Sport 22m, 7
35		★ Ground Zero FA: Grant Piper, 2017	19	Sport 22m, 7
36		★ Pocket Symphony Start up ‘Ground Zero’ for the first three bolts then break left onto the blank wall. FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2022	23	Sport 22m, 8
The Right Slabs Area
38		★★ Christmas Curry FA: Alexandria Natalia, 25 Dec 2018	18	Sport 25m, 8
39		★ The Central Line FA: Tony Burnell, 8 Dec 2018	18	Sport 25m, 8
40		★ Sleep Sliding Away FA: Simon Courtois, 2018	17	Sport 25m, 8
The Left Slab Area
42		Round Up FA: Grant Piper, 2017	16	Sport 25m, 8
43		Black Humour FA: Grant Piper, 2017	19	Sport 20m, 7
44		Scorched Earth FA: Grant Piper, 2017	18	Sport 20m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
10		★	Unnamed - middle left	Sport 10m, 7
			Unnamed - middle right	Sport 10m, 5
16			Round Up	Sport 25m, 8
		★	Ruperts Blanket	Sport 15m, 7
17		★	Awake To A Shake	Sport 15m, 7
		★	Faux Fur	Sport 15m, 7
		★	Insomnia	Sport 15m, 7
			Pillar Talk	Sport 20m, 5
		★	Sleep Sliding Away	Sport 25m, 8
18		★	Apnea	Sport 15m, 6
		★★	Christmas Curry	Sport 25m, 8
		★★	Dirty Dreams	Sport 20m, 8
		★	Duncan's Route	Sport 20m, 6
		★★	Matrix	Sport 15m, 5
			Scorched Earth	Sport 20m, 7
		★★	Sleep When You're Dead	Sport 20m, 5
		★	The Central Line	Sport 25m, 8
19			Black Humour	Sport 20m, 7
		★	Brokeback Mountain	Sport 15m, 7
		★	Ground Zero	Sport 22m, 7
20		★	Cold Ground	Sport 20m, 5
		★★★	Let Me Sleep On It	Sport 20m, 7
			We Ain’t Playing Tiddlywinks, Mate	Sport 20m, 6
21		★	Ash Vegas	Sport 25m, 9
		★	Dustpipe	Sport 17m, 7
		★★	Pyro-technic	Sport 20m, 9
		★	SNAFU	Sport 15m
		★	Sleeping Beauty	Sport 20m, 6
			XX	Sport 8
22		★	Missing Link	Sport 20m, 7
23		★	Pocket Symphony	Sport 22m, 8
24		★★	Annihilation Mix	Sport 20m, 9
25		★	Compression Test	Sport 20m, 7
		★	Pressure Gauge	Sport 22m, 7
25/26		★	4X	Sport 18m, 6
26		★	Slip Of The Tongue	Sport 20m
?		★	Unnamed - far left	Sport 11m, 6
		★	Unnamed - far right	Sport 10m, 4