North Wye

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5




This branch of Wye Creek sees much less attention the lower portions of the drainage. It offers quality climbing in an unreal settion. Enjoy the hike up through beech forest, before popping out into sub-alpine tussock grasses. There are two main crags: Katabatic Wall facing West & Symphonie Buttress facing North. These walls catch a reasonable amount of sun in summer, however in autumn & winter the sun hides behind the opposite hill. For your evening entertainment Mother Nature supplied a dozen or so house-sized boulders, 10 mins from the bivy, they provide many opportunities.

Access issues

Tread lightly. Leave no trace!


From the Wye Creek toilet, walk up the Wye Creek track which stays on the North Side (don't cross the hydro bridge to Wye South). After passing Admiral Wall, follow the orange DoC track (follow the orange markers) for around 40 minutes to the edge of the beech forest. Follow a vague track close to the river bank through scrub & over rocks.

After 5 minutes cross the river to a small island. Walk 25m upstream on this & then cross the other channel of the river & find yourself on the true left of the river (again, orange markers). Stay at river level for 5 minutes before veering up hill. From here you will sidle down hill again, until the valley widens drastically.

After about 15 minutes you will cross a perpendicular stream (depending on season & snow melt). From here Katabatic Wall is visible. Walk uphill around 200m to Stag Bivy. This bivy is conveniently located under a huge boulder with plenty of room for 4-5 people. Amazing views of Single Cone. Symphonie Buttress is visible from this point up higher in the valley opposite side to Katabatic Wall.

Where to stay

Stag Bivy.


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Thu 20 Apr
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