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Description

Home to some of the steepest routes at Wye Creek. Access the Upper Tier via a ledge and fixed rope from the start of Chimney Sweep.

Approach

Follow the trail leading to the Main Wall until reaching a small sign, then turn left.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 14 26m
2 15 30m

Waterfall makes communication difficult. P1 (8b): traverse right from the right side of Zipity Zapity Wall until reaching the bolted belay. P2 (6b): exposed climbing directly above B27 Positive to the top of the big boulder.

FA: Ian Binnie & Swenja Stellfeld, 1998

Steep crack to shared anchor with Babaganoosh.

FA: Rupert Gardiner & Andrew Mills

Powerful moves through the roof to the bulge, but more technical than you might think.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1998

FA: Aaron Ford, 2007

Up the crack left of Little Rivers to a chimney.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2002

Up a well featured face to a steep finish. Shared anchors with Hard Rain.

FA: Michal Karnik, 2013

Climb the right side of the arete, then through the overhang.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1998

Start as for B27 Positive, then tend left to the widest part of the roof. Pull over and finish up the steep headwall.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

FA: Ian Binnie & Russ McRae, 1996

1 16 28m
2 15 30m

P1 (11b): up the wide chimney. P2 (7b): climb the corner and finish up Fata Morgana.

FA: Aaron Ford & Phill Goss, 2007

Bridging.

FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2002

Difficult sequences on relentlessly steep rock.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2008

Slopey, steep, endurance climbing.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1997

FA: Aaron Ford, 2015

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

Climb the brown rock 5m left of the arete.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2008

1 17 25m
2 15 15m
3 24 20m

P1: 8b. P2: 4b. P3: 2b mixed trad.

FA: Mark Woodward & Dave McKinley, 1997

FA: Nick Cradock, 1998

Lots of exposure and big moves on overhangs. Access via a ledge and fixed rope from the bottom of Chimney Sweep.

A 70m rope is a must.

FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2016

FA: Mike Simpson, 2004

FA: Mike Simpson, 2004

FA: Michal Karnik, 2012

Set: Aaron Ford

FA: Alex Honnold, 2016

FA: Perry Beckham, 1999

FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1999

FA: Ian Binnie, 1999

FA: Perry Beckham, 1999

Start right of Perry's Crack.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2010

Set: Arnaud Forest

FA: Michal Karnik, 2014

FA: Arnaud Forest, 2014

Up the left side of a small chimney.

FA: Niall Muller, 2010

Follow right-trending crack to the arete. Can be split into 2 pitches (grade 26, 25)

FA: Michal Karnik, 2012

Crank through the steepest part of the roof, then finish up TBC.

FA: Michal Karnik, 2012

Set: Aaron Ford

FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2015

Climb the right face of the cleft.

FA: Andrew Mills, 2010

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