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Description

The classic crag for the area. If your only here for a day or two this is definitely the crag to check out. Very exposed at approximately 1000 meters and a some of the classics of the area. Don't leave without climbing 'The Mission' Bring a 60m rope and lots (12+) quickdraws

Approach

From the top of the road, follow the walking track for approx 20 minutes. You will eventually come to a junction with a sign that says "track" pointing one way and a waterfall the other.

Ignore the sign and follow the bridge across the waterfall. Continue to follow the water pipe. Keep folowing until it turns into a walkway. Follow the walkway all the way to the end. You will eventually come to the main waterfall of Wye Creek. Cross the final bridge then follow the small walking track up to the main wall. If you are walking on a path that doesn't look well trodden, you are going the wrong way. You will end up at the Main wall, and you will know you are at the arete where 'The Mission' is as there is a small tree there too.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the chimney.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2009

Climb through the overhang, finishing on a slab.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2010

Climb the corner.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2017

Climb up past two bolts on the right face of the corner. Step over onto the left slab and continue to a chain anchor.

FA: Sally Ford, 2004

Start at the fixed belay anchors at the bottom. Straight up the slab past 5 bolts and lots of holds to a chain anchor.

FA: Dave Bolger

Climb left of a vague arête. Lower off same chain anchor as per TQ.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2013

Climb the gentle slab.

FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2017

Climb the large crack, then left to bolts.

FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2018

Climb the corner to the wide crack, tending left.

FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2017

Climb to the 4th bolt of Almi, then tend left.

FA: Sally Ford & Aaron Ford, 2010

Climb up a slab to a small overhang.

FA: Swenja Stellfeld, 1997

Climb the crack.

FA: Steve Carr, 1998

Start as for Alien Resurrection and finish up corner to anchor left of Bigger than Big.

FA: Simon, 1998

Two meters left of 'Bigger than Big', just next the the small tree. Straight up the face to a small rooflet. Continue through the bulge and left at the overhang with one bolt on it. Follow the large crack to the left and back onto the face for an easy finish at the chain anchor.

FA: Swenja Stellford, 1997

Climb up an easy face to a small rooflet.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2017

Up through a lightly steep section with some great jugs past 2 bolts then a big move up over the bulge. Nice and easy slab climb to finish, though may be a tad run out for a beginner leader. Double ring lower off.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

Bouldery moves.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2005

Climb up a brown rock to a shared anchor with La Belle Vie

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor.

FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996

Well spaced bolts around cruxes.

Face climbing with few bolts.

FA: Mark Woodward, 1996

Climb up the ramp to the base, then up the crack system.

FA: Gordy Watson

Boulder up to the first bolt, then finish up a steep face.

FA: Guillaume Charton & John Burrow, 2012

Climb up an offwidth to a crack, finishing up a small face.

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

Start left up the first bolt, climbing up the arete. Veer towards Aratika at the 4th bolt, then back left.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

Climb up the sustained arete.

FA: Russ McRae, 1996

Wide chimney right of Aratika.

FA: Doug Smelie, 1999

Climb up the face, then left at the break to shared anchor with Aramuru.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

Long slab.

FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996

Clip the two bolts left of the offwidth, then up the crack joining with another crack on the right.

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

Overhanging offwidth to the crack joining with Aroha.

FA: Aaron Ford & Sally Ford, 2007

Between two obvious cracks, tending left to shared anchor with About Time.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

Start on the left end of Proud Monkey Roof, climbing left to join Ford Crack.

FA: Sally Ford & Aaron Ford, 2007

FA: Bruce Dowick

FA: Gordy Watson & Andy Mills

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

Jugs galore through the roof. The pump is real pulling the lip. Hang on until you clip the anchors. All about the location with this one. Cut your feet & get the shot.

FA: Ian Bull, 1999

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

FA: Ian Bull, 1999

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