Routes as sport in New Zealand

Great climbing with interesting features and some tricky sequences. Finishes on the starting dyno jugs of the extension 'Bagheera'.

"We're going to need a bigger star system". Continues up from the Baloo anchor. All beta so far involves an all points off dyno! A hard V2 (6A) crux guards the top. Feels hard for the grade until you send, then it's easy - c'est la vie (such is life).

Hope you like mantles.

A fun bouldery start then consistent grade 17 moves up to the 'tree house' ending.

Short but savage. A chill start up the layback finger crack leads to triple, consecutive cruxes (V2-V4-V3) / (6A/6B+/6A+). Some serious skills are needed to slay the Congo King.

Closed project, please stay off. The left side of the face/slab arete. Balancey and beautiful.

Undercut start through blocks onto arete

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

On the arete right of flake 7

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Scramble up right to pre clip the 1st bolt if you don't have a stick clip. Starts in the corner, then head up the slab (avoiding the crack), moving right at the tree, then tackle the improbable-looking upper slab. Great photo spot out right on a bushy ledge above 'The Zoolander Center'.

Pitch 1: (19) Up the face and over boulders to a crux finger crack. Use the maillon of the anchor on the tree.

Pitch 2: (16) Traverse to the right to the belay station after climbing up the face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (19) Start in the bottomless chimney, traverse up and right and exit through the overhang, then leftward on a slab and face. DBB.

Pitch 4: (19) Straight up the face to the very top. 15 bolts. DBB.

Starts at the top of pitch one of Ventura Highway.

Pitch 1: (21) Wandering route, but generally trends left up the face. DBB.

Pitch 2: (22) Initially head out right and weave back left between the two shrubs. Continue straight up the exposed headwall to the anchor. DBB.

Trend rightwards at first until you get into a small groove. Continue upwards cutting left underneath the big block. Follow just right of the small arete to the belay.

Take a 70m rope and plenty of extendable draws. Pitch 2 is still a work in progress.

Climb the face just right of Pain Au Chocolat.

Up the left hand side of the arete, transitioning onto a slab to the top.

Up the blunt arete of the right of the boulder.

Go up the main just left of the main slab of Secret Garden

Left most line of bolts on the main wall. Low angle slab, start up big holds and trending slightly left following the bolts, small traverse left then back right and up to the anchors on the face. DBR anchor.

Goes directly up the wall, parallel to Miromiro, then trends slightly left to a separate anchor on the shorter section of the wall. Crux bulge has two options: direct (16) or out left to the original boulder problem (17).

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Start as for ‘Miromiro’ for the 1st 3 bolts then trends slightly right. The original 19 direct exit was rebolted to the right to keep the climb as a sustained 15 and to give the original line to the left (Miromiro), more space. A separate anchor was installed (single ring w/ chain).

Runs up the central smooth part of the main wall, between Miromiro and Rise of the Sloths, follow the black bolt hangers. Finishes up the vertical groove with a technical second crux to keep you entertained. Originally graded as a hard 20, potentially a grade harder.

An easier variation start is possible by laybacking the crack out left to avoid all the slab crux moves. The top crux in the groove is grade 18 if you want to log this variation.

Line of bolts up the middle of the right side of the slab face.

Pitch 1: (23) Up the smoothest part of the wall on small features to a ledge with an anchor on the vertical wall on the right.

Pitch 2: (20) Climb the left side of the wall, over the arete and up to the anchor. Pitches can be linked with a 60cm sling on the anchor of pitch 1.

Up the right side of the slab, next to Rise of The Sloths, near the body sized crack. Hard for the grade due to the old school style. Probably a 15.

Keep climbing onto P2 of R.O.T.S. For a nice long pitch dubbed 'Tinkerbella', Grade (19/20).

Balancey moves down low give way to easier slab climbing up above, anchors are the same as for Bitten By A Cobra.

Go up the face with interesting moves (can be bypassed by using the tree), good luck and have fun.

Fantastic moves on well bolted, slightly overhung face climb, then over the arete to an easy slab top out.

Start right of the Animal Farm arete, then up the slab to the anchor

Second line of bolts right of 'Animal Farm', start scrambling up on to the ledge then into the groove and follow it straight up the easiest terrain,keep the ledges on your right, trending slightly left on the top slab to the anchor. Double bolt D anchor.

Go up the boulder start or use the hand jam on your right to gain the rest of the climb. Continue up and right through the slight overhang, pulling over onto the easy slab finish.

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

The overhanging arete. Packs a lot of good moves in for a short route. Originally graded easy 22, then hard 20, settled on 21. Short beta possible for the crux. Tricky onsight. Originally had 6 bolts for the F.A.

Climb the face, both adjacent boulders are in as are knee pads... hint hint...

Go up the tight chimney, then into a boulder crux. Can be done as a crack eliminant which goes at 21/22.

A hard start leads to multiple cruxes high above the forest. Preclipping the first bolt might prove beneficial..

Cool moves up the left hand arete. Consistant climbing with great flow (once you have the beta sussed).

Hard onsite, easy redpoint (with good conditions). Great photo spot up and right. Preclip the 1st bolt off the small boulder to avoid an awkward ground fall at the 1st crux.

The scariest thing in all of this wood, Alice saw the rock and the rock looked good!

Multiple tecky cruxes and interesting moves make it feel longer and climb better than some other short routes. Great photo spot and views from the belay ledge.

Climb on the overhang face for 4 staples and then join the top bolt of the route to the right.

Steep start, be careful clipping 2nd bolt.

Start on the boulder to the left if the face and follow up the arete.

Up the face on the right. The first bolt is placed high after the opening problem (the crux) and then easing off a bit with a long runout at the top.

Access via track on right before you get to Dream Wall (when walking from camp). Friendly climb with views at top. One crux getting over the lip.

Fun layback moves up the short, wide crack lead to a 2nd crux up high. Great warm up route. Cleaned by Alice Heath, bolted by Dan Head.

Starts by Q.O.D. Trends left to big pockets that may take a little bite out of your pinky finger unless you tape it up. Short, sharp and sweet.

Hard 22 / V2 Highball. Powerful and fun moves. Traverses right after the crux.

Originally an easy 20 until the undercling jug broke off. Now a hard 20. Optional V1 Highball. Follows the white hangers.

21/22. Great moves and holds with a tricky crux. Follows the Grey hangers.

Another technically challenging sequence. Follows the black hangers. Recommended pre clipping the high 1st bolt.

23 / V3 Highball. Originally an easy 24.

Short, slightly overhung, crimpy route on black hangers. Crux around first bolt. Recommend stick clipping first bolt or rappelling in to place draws. Alternatively, climb as a V5 highball boulder.

Layback block start leads to a crux and slab finish.

A classic for the grade. Head up the face and arete through super jugs to the anchor.

Bolted line up the face right of 'Jug Addiction'.

Straight up the line of bolts, don't reach right into the top of Secret Squirrel.

Starts left of the arete, moving up the slab. There is an easier grade 16 RH start around the arete with 3 independent bolts.

Deceptive moves up the face opposite Pinch And A Punch. Could be a bit stiff for the grade.

Sustained. Up the steep face on small sharpish holds, move right at the 4th bolt.

"A nice spot". Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

Easy, short and generously bolted.

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension. Now retro bolted, WTF?

Another retro bolted easy trad route.

A cruisy multi-pitch climb with a sting in the tail

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the featured face, heading up and slightly left through the pockets. DBB. (25m)

Pitch 2: (14) A short pitch to the big dirt ledge. Walk right to access the next pitch. (10m)

Pitch 3: (17) Climb up the featured corner. Watch for some hollow blocks. (25m)

Pitch 4: (23) The sting in the tail. Commit yourself by stepping over the void before cranking through the hard overhanging moves. Take a rest in the cave before stepping left around the bulge and pulling hard to get to the top. (15m)

The first two pitches can be done in one with 15 draws.

Left line of bolts from P3 anchors of Reggae Shark.

The right hand edge of the featured face. Still very dirty for a sport route.

Adds a new start and finish to the original bolted arete of Don't Hurt my Kowhai. Start up the hand line left of Predator and take the rope leading left to reach the line of bolts in the gully.

Pitch 1: (18) Follow the bolts to any anchor above the kowhai tree. (20m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Head up the bolted arete to the anchor. Head left along the hand line to the next pitch. Watch out for dropping anything on the people below you.

Best to combine pitches 1-2 (18 bolts)

Pitch 3: (18) Head up the wall onto the slab to the belay hidden in the shade. (15m, 6b)

Pitch 4: (18) Continue up the line of bolts, but be aware for whip potential. (13m, 6b)

Don't combine pitches 3-4, there is ledge fall potential and the belayer needs to see the leader. You can get down on a 60m with rope stretch from the top of pitch 2, but if unsure make your initial abseil from the top a bit longer to reach the ringbolt and chain hanger 5m further down.

Do the first couple of moves of Predator then go left up the blunt arete. Slightly right at 4th bolt then up.

Tackle the middle of the pinnacle through steep and sustained moves, topping out on the right. One of the most popular climbs at Kawakawa Bay.

A powerful start to establish on the pinnacle leads to a slabby sequence to the top.

Just around the arete from Dirty Dancing. A hardish start leads to the slab above.

Up the arete from the toe of the pinnacle to meet Ducky Fuzz at the top.

At the back of the pinnacle, accessible by a hand rope. Nice climb with good views.

Pitch 1: (17) Start up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here (10 bolts), or;

Pitch 2: (19) Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God. (3 bolts)

P1: (18) Follow the left line of bolts up the arete (9b, 25m)

P2: (21) The original Aliens pitch through the overhang and to the right (8b, 15m)

P3: (19) Continue up the headwall, past the anchor of Jugzilla to the top of the buttress (7b, 20m)

The steep overhang between Aliens 2nd pitch and Foo Fighter. Traverse in from the ledge (use the belay bolt to keep safe). Left knee pad or tape recommended. There are two great photo spots, depending on the light, next to the start of Jugzilla or at the anchor of Pointy Bit.

Up Aliens Resurrection until that route splits left. Head right up the overhung arete on some wild holds to gain the slab and anchor.

Sustained pocket pulling up the slightly overhung face to a mini crux and obvious undercling rest. Power up for the final 5m to the arete and slab.

If you've got something left in the tank, keep climbing into the crux pitch of Brunettes not Fighter Jets (23) for a 3 star, 30m link up.

P1 (21): Play "find the jugs" up the vertical wall right of Aliens Resurrection, then easy slab to chain anchor.

P2 (23): Continue on the left-hand line through some technical climbing.

P2 (20): Cross over the crack, then continue straight up the face to the top.

Starts left of the tree by the trail, trending left. Good access to the hard routes above.

P1: (23) Follow the red streak directly in front of you into pockety terrain with jugs up high (6b, 15m)

P2: (18) Head slightly left then straight up, following the arete left to the anchors (13b, 30m)

Follow the white streak out right from Sweet 16s Not M16s anchor, heading left around the corner and through the overhang.

P1 (22) Follow the left line of bolts, continuing up the pink face to the belay ledge. (30m)

P2 (18) Technical climbing. Up past the old anchor, trending right at the top to the Captain Caveman anchor. (25m)

P1 (23) Go up the pocketed slab towards the upper arete, joining with the second pitch of Thors Little Brother. (9b, 30m)

P2 (22) Continue up the face on big but spaced holds, tackling the upper bulges and increasing exposure. (10b, 25m)

The easier way up, juggy climbing all the way and bypass the overhang crux of Caveman. Go up and left on the hand line from the start of 'Captain Caveman' to a small ledge. P1) goes up the right-most line of bolts through the gully to the anchor in the bottom of the cave. P2) goes right from the anchor then left up the obvious easy route out of the cave to a ledge on the face, stop at the chains or continue into the shade and use the Caveman anchor. P3) Follow the corner crack system straight up as for 'Captain Caveman', then at the overhang where Caveman goes left, instead go right following the bolts for an easier 16 finish on similar features, then traverse left to the shared anchor.

The line between Cave Boy and Captain Caveman. Starts part way up Captain Caveman.

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

1. (17) Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

2. (16) Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney or use hanger, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

3. (19) Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

Short chimney at the back right of the cave as you go in from Captain Cavemans first pitch anchor. Left of Year of The Monkey. Quick clip anchors.

Starts in the cave at the top of the first pitch of Captain Caveman.

A boulder start will lead you to some fun climbing above. The grade seems to be dependant on your height and ability to exploit it.

This one you can't lank your way out of it. Another boulder start to fun upper moves.

A nice fun rope with multiple anchors set up to practice multipitches or top-rope laps.