Routes as sport in New Zealand

The route at the leftmost side of Upper Bluff, follow the track all the way around. Starts in a short corner then continues up the wall above.

Open Project between Recycling Nachos and Squeedily Spooch. Only the first two bolts have been placed, if you managed to do the boulder at the second bolt get in touch. Two moves revolving around an undercling that is likely to weigh in around V10/11.

8 bolts. Right of Recycling Nachos, a V3 start (stick clip it if you don’t have fingers of steel) to sustained 20-ish climbing, a no-hands rest then a hard exit (now retrobolted for those with inferior human organs)

This steep line faces anyone willing to become immaculate. Tackles the roof section directly above the vertical wall. A small traverse right then left will lead you to another roof and over a lip to the anchors.

Easy climbing for the first few bolts leads to a triple crux sequence (V3 / V4 / V2), then a welcome hands free rest before sustained 23 climbing takes you to another bouldery crux (trending left) that guards the anchor. Benchmark 26. Tick this and you're ready for the 27's.

A great climb to push yourself with safe falls and plenty of shade in the summer / sun in the winter.

A climb that people from the beach can marvel at you climbing. Technical and thuggy climbing will lead you to a traverse out left. Clip the 6th bolt and prepare to pull hard, or whip trying. Recommended to clip the belayer in.

Head up the first four bolts of Altar Of Madness, then continue straight up the slightly overhanging wall through the black streak. Shares the same anchor as Altar Of Madness.

The direct line of Altar of Madness that cuts out the traverse. Shares the first and last two bolts.

The second pitch of Altar Of Madness. Trends slightly right, then cuts left of the top of the bluff.

Four bolts up to the ledge, then six more to the anchor. Quite hard to stop and clip around the second to last bolt.

Starts at Flogged To Death/Tour Of Duty RH finish belay.Trend up and slightly right (Gr 19) to a ledge 6m from summit. Up through a bouldery groove in the overhang, cutting right to the very top of the bluff. Could be 26+ for sub 6 foot tall climbers.

The easy slab/arete. Much easier and shorter than its Californian cousin.

An impressive line up the easier slab then through two overhangs (crux at first). Lower off the anchor above the second overhang at 30m or continue to a shady ledge belay and scramble off.

The large prow left of Fibula. Boulder start then stay left on the bolts.

On the lone buttress 40 meters right of The Tombstone. Boulder start followed up an easy dihedral.

A good first multi pitch with low consequence, easy moves and a good view.

Pitch 1: (15) A right-trending line that finishes at the big ledge. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the slab, heading right after the third bolt. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 3: (14) Continue heading up the slab and past a ledge to the anchor. DBB. (4b)

Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be combined

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

Head up the bolted arete, splitting off left to the anchor. DBB.

Start as for Raw Umber, but continue up the arete. Head left under the bushes and then head straight up over the small bulge to the anchor. DBB.

Start as for Survival Of The Fittest, but head right from the mid-height ledge to continue on the arete. DBB.

Climb the easy start left of Shoot Your Gun then after 15m attack an overhanging face. Make use of a mini rest before launching into a powerful crux sequence with perfect clean falls. After this, climb left into Survival Of The Fittest for a few metres up to the last bolt, then tackle the overhanging arête direct to the large ledge.

1. 22m, 8 bolts: Follow the grey ring bolts to the belay ledge in the middle of the face.

2. 26m, 8 bolts: Follow the first four ring bolts then tra-verse right, through the roof, to join the top of Highway Child. Dan Head; 2011.

10 bolts. Starts at the top of the first pitch of Ezy Ryder. From the mid-way belay, climb past the first 3 ring bolts then head up and left onto the hangers. Alpine style rock climbing. Dan Head (solo) ; Mar 2011.

1. Climb up the slab using edges and cracks.

2. Follow straight up through technical overhang with good holds.

Follow the vague crack line straight up after the first 3 bolts of High Hopes.

Outstanding, best as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (16) From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. (8b)

Pitch 2: (16) Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay. (7b)

“Excellent, this is” – Yodan.

1. 25m, bolted: Start as for Make My Blue Rat Dance, then continue straight up the steep face direct to the High Hopes midway anchor.

2. 23m, bolted: From the anchor, head up and right through some wild terrain with increasingly harder moves until you gain the slab.

Link up of P1 for Pimps Don't Cry into P2 of Black Yoda. Hand/fist sized cams will be helpful to reduce runouts.

7 bolts. Named after a high-diving rat with big gourds. Start by the tree before the first exposed hand line traverse. Wandering and bold. Head right at the end. Solid 18 most of the way.

A tough onsight! 1) 23. 10m, 3 bolts: Move right onto the hanging roof and up to a seated belay on at the Rumpus Room anchor.

1. 1. 20m, 8 bolts: Fairly direct up to a powerful crux sequence.

Dan Head, Dylan Ball, Matt Thom; Apr 2011.

Bold and beautiful. Tough for the grade unless you’re brave and know the moves. As for Fly My Pretties, but go right after the 2nd bolt onto stupendous terrain!

Starts up the arete just past the boardwalk. Traverse to the first bolt from the right, then continue up the arete to an interesting crux.

Would be a good idea to anchor the belayer somewhere.

Head up the small groove through thought-provoking movements to the anchor.

Rappel down to the water from near the base of 'Human Intervention'

Pitch 1: (19) Head up the arete, then head onto the face with a anchor at the ledge. DBB.

Pitch 2: (19) Head right off the ledge and climb the overhanging face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (17) Continue up the face and bask in the views. DBB.

Accidental retrobolt of For King And Country.

Accessed via traversing right at the anchor of Hands Solo. Start up the wide chimney, moving left at the break before climbing the chockstone.

The combination of arete and face climbing will lead to some interesting moves and multiple cruxes. Two pitches are required to get down. (There is a midway anchor below and left of the tree)

The overhanging arete right of Road Tripping. Stay off the slab for full value

P1: Start as for Night Rider but traverse right at the 5th bolt to the anchor at the ledge.

P2: Step back left from the anchor and continue up the face.

Link up of P1 and P2 of The Pilgrimage without using either anchor.

A few meters right of 'Super Natural'. Left of 'The Hecklers' and 'Mexican Americans'

Pitch 1: (22) Straight up the bolted slab/arete, with a crux around the small bulge. (22m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Continue up the slab/arete with some easy runouts near the top. Head up the fixed line to the next pitch. (22m, 9b)

Pitch 3: (16) Access the easy slab by traversing from the left of the slab. Clip the high bolt in the cave then move left to the belay. (18m, 5b)

Pitch 4: (20) Climb out of the belay into the arch before entering the crux. Belay at the ledge. (18m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (23) Cross using the fixed line to the ledge, take a deep breath and pull hard to get through the bolted roof. (15m, 7b)

Pitch 6: (17) Continue up the far easier terrain away from the arete to the top of the wall. (15m, 5b)

Starts left of 'After the sunset' (pitch 1)

Pitch 1: (20) Climb up the slab left of the arête. Crux around the 3rd bolt but balancy and challenging slab with small overhang in the middle all the way up. Follow fixed rope straight up to the next pitch (45m, 11b). Abseiling over anchor of 'After the Sunset' (P1) is possible.

Pitch 2: (16) [16, 20m, 8b] Climb up the slab, follow the line of bolts to the right to the ledge below 'New Wave Wall' (20m, 8b). Same as 'After the Sunset' P3.

Pitch 3: (21) Second line of bolts from the left up over the red face. After getting over the edge keep left and head up around the corner to a two-hangers-anchor. (20m, 7b)

Pitch 4: (23) Climb through the roof and up the long arete shared by After The Sunset. (25m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (14) Up to the very top. (5m, 2b)

Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked, but watch for rope drag and communication problems with second.

Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Now 5-6 pitches right to the top.

1. [18, 9b] Wander up the arete to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge.

2. [15, 7b] Left into the corner then back right and up to reach the hand rope. Take that leftward.

3. [16, 8b] As for P2 of Mexican Americans to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.

4. [18, 8b] The leftmost line of bolts over bulges to belay below the wall left of the arete.

5. [20, 10b] Up the right traversing line of bolts around the corner to the arete, then up the arete to reach a ledge and anchor. Best clip this with a long sling and continue.

6. [14, 2b] A short easy pitch to the top. Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Starts high on the wall (100m up!), left of Fraggle Rock. Access by climbing one the multi-pitches that finish close by. From the top of 'After the Sunset', head left (back towards camp) for about 20m until you spot a double bolt anchor to rap in. The next belay station is quite far left. Alternatively, climb the left variation exit for Fraggle Rock to the same top anchor.

Originally a mixed route (one cam at the top), now fully bolted. Definitely worth the effort to try this little beauty. Video link below.

https://vimeo.com/121409944

Nicely cleaned up. Start on the face immediately right of Boat Ramp Crack, moving right around the roof to get established on the the arete (crux), then easier climbing follows higher up. For an easier start climb up the hand rope and path a bit and start on the face right of the arete.

A dirty climb, but you'll find good consistent climbing up the fun face. Route near the end of the fixed rope.

Starts with 'New Wave' and heads up past there midway anchor. In the PDF guide its marked as two pitch route (28 30m, 23 15m).

Like '2 Minutes in Heaven', this starts most of the way up the wall. To the right of Mexican Americans pitch 3. Shares the first 15m with 'Kung Fu Panda', then leads right up.

https://vimeo.com/116741555

New Wave P1-2 linkup.

Only bolted line on Odyssey wall, but you've got to be strong enough to climb this line.

Pitch 1: (17) Starts at the end of the lowest fixed-line. Head up from here, heading up the left line of bolts.

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the easy slab, then head left along the fixed line to pitch 3

Pitch 3: (19) Head straight up above you and get prepared to pull hard

Pitch 4: (24) Head off left up the seemingly blank face

Pitch 5: (25) Continue up and head slightly right and head straight through the roof. This pitch can be aided due to generous bolting by the FA's

Pitch 6: (19) A super short pitch just to marvel in the view

Fully bolted except for the crux pitch that takes good gear (with one bolt to protect the 2nd crux).

Start as for The Eagle Huntress but climbs direct at the middle crux. Lower into the cave via the quick clip anchors to begin pitch two.

Pitch 3 starts off the big ledge. Consistent climbing leads to an easy top section.

Pitch 4 another great sport pitch with a tricky exit and comfy belay ledge.

Pitch 5 (crux) trends right and up with plenty of gear options at the main crux that climbs through an atmospheric overhang.

Pitch 6 a powerful start leads to tecky corner moves that may feel hard until you find your best beta. A great rest post crux leads to a fun, right-trending exit on more cool features.

Climb the face left of Les Femmes et Les Grimpeurs A'bord

Climbs between Working Holiday and Les Femmes. P2 can be a great practice multi-pitch or an extension for the two routes to the right; L.F. and W.U.T

Line in the middle of the face. Easy climbing leads to a tricky section between the third and fourth bolt.

Move up the easy slab then up the face onto the top out ledge.

Up through the bulletproof looking face. Great moves on some cool pockets and edges. Second pitch can be done as multi-pitch practice from this climb or There's Wetas in my Porridge.

"Enlightened"

An old, forgotten route, established around 1990. It now sees the light again, and should be much more popular with its modern hardware. Old-school style cruxes reward technique over brute strength.

Climbs the arete (left of Holiday Mode), with massive jugs up to the 1st bolt, then has small moves on small holds with an easy finish, traversing left to the top.

Retro-bolted in September 2021. Pitons and naked bolts upgraded with glued in rod & hangers. Shares the anchor with the trad & sport route to the left (now upgraded with a ring hanger). 2nd pitch to come soon.

The direct line up the juggy face and overhang. Brilliant climbing. Recleaned in 2020 by Dan Pearl.

Classic, but a bit polished and technically challenging for 15.

Following the left curving line before heading through the slight overhang to the anchor.

Tough onsite, easy redpoint (for the grade). Original grade and name unknown. Named, retro bolted and extended in 2020. Trends right then back left. If the runout between 3rd and 4th bolt looks too scary, imagine doing it with the original single bolt to feel better, (or rap in and clip a piton with an extendable or long draw).

Finish on the big ledge at the double ring belay or continue up the buldge to the very top, sharing the anchor for Hidden Treasure and Walking on Sunshine.

Climb the middle of the face. A low bolt protects the hard start, power through the over lap on big holds with more welcome bolts and a nice bridgy / slab rest. Easier climbing in the middle with spaced bolts up to the big ledge with a final test at the top overhang. Like the name suggests, who would have thought such a nice climb was there!

A tough start laybacking the arete (or easy grovelling in the corner), leads to beautiful climbing up most of the wall with a tricky exit. Shares the same anchor as Hidden Treasure. A nice long route.

Climb up the slab through right facing corner, then move left onto small ledge. Hug the tree on the way past and up easy ground to double ring bolt anchor. If you want a second pitch, step left from the anchors and onto the top half of Walking on Sunshine (grade 16).

Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.

The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete. 'No one' had put much effort into cleaning it, protect it safely or even name and credit it. Now it's fully bolted (with hangers), relatively clean and adequately protected. A route for Katoa (everyone) - climbing 23's, to enjoy.

The large boulder behind it has a belay bolt on it to keep light belayers grounded.

Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard.

Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.

The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 hangers then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

Start off 3-4m right of 'Eat The Meat' in the corner, move past 3 bolts to the roof, at the 4th bolt mantel the roof, 5th bolt is about 6-7m past the roof, finish up to the anchor of 'Into The Wild'

1 Large hex or cam optional between 2nd and 3rd bolt

1 medium hex or 2 friend between 2nd and 3rd bolt

Alternative start to ’Mojo Moan’ up the left side of the obvious pillar. Avoids the worst of the choss and has some challenging moves on the sloping arete.

Starts up the right side of the obvious pillar. Beware the choss.

Start on first bolt of Eye of The Tiger then traverse left via big moves on mostly good holds to an okay rest, then fire up the sustained headwall on excellent rock.

Starts just left of the New Black on glue in ring bolts. Keep left of the over hung roof through the chains and up the head wall.

Just 14 years from "erection" to completion. Long and quite hard with a big bulge at the end! First four bolts of The New Black, head right through steep ground onto the face. Finish over the bulge with the crux dead-point past the lip to a rams horns lower off.

Start up Priapism but instead of going direct keep traversing at the 5th bolt to finish up Tartarus. Cuts out any no hands rests, sustained but none as hard as the priapism heart breaker.

Three boulders in a row with one involving a mono doigt to an easier finish. Climbs tothe same anchor as Tartarus.

Start as per Man Over Board and then head left at the fourth bolt. Follow the holds up to the corner then climb the corner to finish.

Start as per Man Overboard, go left, at bolt 7 head up through steep terrain.

Climb to the obvious sidepull feature. Move left into a series of underclings. Once over the bulge, follow the vague arete to a short roof then up to the Head Shot anchor.

Left of Chapel of Ghouls. Direct start, 3 bolts then into the crux. Easier climbing to the roof and through to the anchors. Watch out for rope drag in the roof, extend the roof draw if possible.

Climb the chapel of ghouls then at the roof head left to a pumpy and burly finish up to the anchors of dans project. Watch out for rope drag and extend the draws in the roof and just below. Adds difficulty and brilliant roof moves onto the original line.

Link Chapel into Maximus

Far right end of the main crag. Starts with some funky moves pressing through the lip, head up through some tricky moves then head left and straight up the face. After the bulge easy slab to the anchors of C.O.G. Good idea to stick clip the second bolt and extend the fourth for added protection.

Climb the face to the left of Dealers Choice. Tricky moves off of the block lead to easier moves on good holds higher up. Top the route out to the right or under the tree and the anchors are on the wall above the mini cave.

Climb the steep arete on jugs then some trickery... Take the left or right option, they seem to be about the same difficulty. Top the route out and the anchors are on the wall above the mini cave.