Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Grot View Cave | |||||
V10 | ★★ Savage Alfresco SDS
Start as for Frank's Route and finish with Savage Alfresco. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 17 Nov 2018 | 6m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Anti-Hesitator
Start as Power Puku and straight through the start of Franks Better Half using the plate, then through the blank horizontal roof (undercling holds) out to the lip, finish up Savage Alfresco. FA video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLkTsHA_vhk FA: Stu Kurth | ||||
V10 | ★★ Days Well Spent Extension
Climb Days Well Spent and finish with The Wheel of Waitomo. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 23 Jun 2022 | 11m | |||
V10/11 | ★★ Days Well Spent - The Wheel of Waitomo Variation
Around 38 moves. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Feb 2023 | 11m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Warrant of Fitness
This climb links Days Well Spent into Check Your Head to end at the Power Puku finish. Climbs on the first tier holds. https://www.instagram.com/p/CqzM00LS8-_/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= FA: Marco Lefebvre, 7 Apr 2023 | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★★ A Wrinkle in Time
Climb Warrant of Fitness and finish with Transverselina. Not at hard as the Line of Fitness, but a solid 10. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 30 Nov | 6m | |||
V10/11 | ★★ Ferocious Al Fresco
Climb The Wheel of Waitomo and finish with Savage Alfresco. A long power endurance climb with a big finish. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 27 May 2022 | 10m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Wheel of Waitomo Variation
This line climbs The Wheel of Waitomo but eliminates the Du Hast shelf and plate by climbing Leon's Line (the outside face below the Du Hast shelf to the nose) to reach the nose. Finish as for The Wheel of Waitomo.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF5PRpy_CBs&t=48s&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre FA: Marco Lefebvre, 10 Apr 2022 | 11m | |||
V10 | ★★ Everything's Frantic!
Start as 'Check your Head' climb 'Leon's Line' and finish up Frantic, the Du Hast plates are out. Very Sustained! FA: Charlie Birch | 10m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Project Gully | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Architexture
Sit start with the left on the big edge and the right on the arete. Work your way up the sloping ramp and transition onto the face for an exciting finish. The stand start goes at the same grade. No pockets, feels like climbing granite. FA: Stu Kurth | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||
31 | By the Power of Grey Skull
Set: Richard Bull FA: Stu Kurth, 2010 | 15m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||
31 | Free Pussy Riot
FA: Stu Kurth | 10m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | |||||
31 | Mighty Odin's Raven
FA: Stu Kurth, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
V10 | 11. Subtle
Direct start to '10. Scooby Do' Climb up the face without using any holds near the left edge. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
31 | Shining Bright Despite the Plight
Set: Richard Bull FA: Josh Evans, 2011 | 18m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
31 | Smith's Choice
Climb hound then trav up the face, not along the ledge, skipping the rest on BTl. FA: Craig Houston, 2017 | 20m, 7 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Kingdom | |||||
V10/11 | 12. Muscle Tribe of Danger and Excellence
Climb the face of the tombstone. FA: Stu Kurth | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
31 | Slaughter Is The Best Medicine
Boulder start then climb bad crack right of Batman. FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2014 | 25m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge | |||||
30/31 | Dodecahedron
Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish. FA: John Palmer, 9 Apr 2021 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu White Falls | |||||
31 | Crag Blocker
Start at the spider, through infinite monkey, past crag vultures, reverse coma crux, finish up at the Coriolis/Retaillack anchors. FA: craig houston, 2022 | 25m | |||
32/33 | ★★ Immortal Technique
Set: James Field-mitchell, 2011 FA: Wiz Fineron, 2013 | 10m | |||
31 | ★ Hail to the king baby
Climb the wraith, then continue through Koha breaking left through steep group to the top of the cliff. FA: Jamesfm, 2013 | 25m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Baring Head Lean-To Rock | |||||
V10 | ★ La Connexion
If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies. FA: John Palmer, 2012 | 8m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Baring Head Long Wall | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Check Your Head
AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel. FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2000 | 6m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Turakirae Head The Wavelength Wavelength South | |||||
{US} V10 | ★★ Big Waves
Start matched in the small roof below the Wavelength Traverse start on a very thin, flaring undercling. A big crossover move will prevent the dab. Continue with Wavelength Traverse and finish with Beaster. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 22 Nov 2019 | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Turakirae Head The Bronx The Bronx Cave | |||||
V10 | ★★ Musashi
Start sitting on the block, with hands matched on the rail. Pull up and snatch the broken pocket with the right hand. Take the big pinch, slap the lip and mantel. FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2006 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Control Freak Out
The low, low Start to 'Control Freak'. Start as for 'Pro Series' on the double underclings, move to the flake and carry on up 'Out of Control' | ||||
V10 | ★★ On Piste
Start a body-length back from the glued flake on some obvious underclings (P) (the right hand one is a jug). Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and exit up off piste. From the flake using the Musashi rail if needed get right hand to pinch, left hand to flatty, then the little crimps above the jug (that’s being skipped), then top out FA: Rob Gajland | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Turakirae Head The Bronx Toast Area | |||||
V10/11 | Red Snapper Project
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V10 | ★★★ Mr Olympia Redux
The extension to Pumping Iron. Sit-start below Allison Wonderland with an undercut and a sloper thing with a handy thumb pocket. Crank left to a small rail, match and then truck left to join the start of Pumping Iron. FA: John Palmer, 2006 | ||||
V9/10 | ★★ Raw Ruthenium
The exstention to 'Raw Iron' start as per 'Mr Olympia' and finish 'Raw Toast' | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Turakirae Head The Bronx Rotund Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★ Übermensch
Crouch start on the big undercling beneath the boulder. Slap around the bulge to the small flakes, exit straight up as per Uber Alles. FA: John Palmer, 2008 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Turakirae Head The Bronx Kish Kash Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★ Boilerplate Sit
Sit start on two small crimps, pull up and make a long move into the start of Boilerplate. FA: Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2012 | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Globe Wall | |||||
31 | ★ Unforgiven
Easy climbing to a boulder problem. Set: Ivan Vostinar FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2004 FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2004 | 15m | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Mount Owen Fyfe River Gorge Intergalactic Intergalactic Right | |||||
32 | Hammerhead
FA: Josh Cornah | 15m, 6 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
32 | Centrifuge
The horizontal line which traverses almost half of The Cave. Start as for She Devil, pass Gorilla Grip and continue along the seam which leads to Bogus Machismo. A mediocre rest at the flat ledge allows for a modicum of recovery before attacking Bogus' final crux. Set: Ivan Vostinar FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
31 | The Phantom
Climb Gorilla Grip to the 3rd bolt, then traverse right to the good jug on Troglodyte. Keep angling up and right to the good rest before the final crux of Kaz's, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | ||||
32 | Swoopathon
Climb Troglodyte to its 3rd bolt, then traverse right to join Kaz's Project at the slopers. Finish as for that line. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2014 | ||||
31 | Troglothon
Climb Kaz's Project to the slopers at the 5th bolt, then drop down to the level of the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip. From here, climb GG to its finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | ||||
32 | The Ghost Who Walks
Climb Kaz's to the 5th bolt, then continue to angle up and left to the heel hook at the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Kaz's Project
Start in the corner at the right side of the deepest part of the cave. Technical climbing leads up and left via a very long section of consistently very hard moves to the lip of the cave. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | ||||
31 | King Of Snake
Climb Kaz's to the dyno at the 4th bolt, then angle up and right to the kneebar rest at the 7th bolt of Bogus. Climb to the next bolt of Bogus, then at the 'boobs', go up and right to finish on the Hauser anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | The Fat Controller
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch (just left of the pigeon pod). From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left, then join Kaz's Project at its 7th bolt. Finish as for Kaz's. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | ||||
32 | Airbender
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | ||||
32 | ★ Ride of the Valkyries
The line of bolts that starts at a dark patch of rock left of Bogus. V10 boulder to the pigeon pod. Link into the top of Bogus Machismo via the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Set: Rodney Newburn FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
32 | Centripetal Force
Climb Bogus to the flat ledge at its 9th bolt. From here, traverse hard left all the way to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | Hyper Boy
Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at its 8th bolt. From here, traverse right all the way to finish at the Space Boy anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
31 | Bogus Hauser
Climb Bogus to the first kneebar at the 6th bolt. Angle up and right to join the Enigma of Kasper Hauser and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | Kevin Spacey
Climb Bogus to the 4th bolt, then traverse right to join Kaiser Soze. At the undercling rest, instead of going straight up, traverse right all the way to the Space Boy finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | ||||
31 | The Baron Machismo
Start at the line of bolts just to the right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at Bogus' 4th bolt, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
32 | The Baron Hauser
Start at the line of bolts just right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at the 4th bolt of Bogus, then continue straight up into the crux of Kaiser Wilhelm and finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
32 | The Enigma of Kasper Hauser
The line of bolts just right of The Baron. Hard boulder problem to start into rest hole. From here, continue up into an inverted crux! Finish at the anchor just to the right of Bogus. Set: Matt Evrard FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
31 | Kaiser Wilhelm
Start as for Enigma of Kasper Hauser, then after the crux head up and right to finish as for Kaiser Soze. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003 | ||||
32 | Underworld
Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but at the hanging slab feature, break right and finish at the anchor to the right of the Kaiser Soze anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
32 | ★★ Space Boy
Classic. Line directly to the left of Dracula. Climb the vague arête to the pod, then angle right, following the line of permadraws. Continue through another crux to the lip of the cave for the extended version. FA: Matt Evrard, 1994 FA: Kaz Pucia, 1995 | ||||
31 | Space Invader
Climb Space Boy, but at the 7th bolt, instead of going straight up, angle right to finish at a lower anchor to the right of the small tree. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
31 | Drac Invader
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Invader anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021 | ||||
31 | Bloodlust
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Boy anchors. FA: Max Farr, 2008 | ||||
31 | Count Duckular
Start as for Dracula, but at the wet jug, instead of joining Nosferatu continue to traverse right to finish at the Urge anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
31 | The Ugly Duckling
The line of bolts between Dracula and Nosferatu. Climb straight up then right, crossing Nosferatu, to finish at the Urge anchors. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Kaz Pucia, 2005 | ||||
32 | Buffy Express
Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse hard left all the way to join Bogus Machismo and finish as for that route. FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2014 | ||||
31 | Buffy
Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse left to join Space Boy and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | ||||
31 | Let There Be Link Ups
Start immediately to the right of Let There Be Bolts, then at the 3rd draw and footcam of Bolts, angle left to join and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills Halfcar | |||||
V10 | Half Brain
Stand stand on 'perfect single pad crimp', continue up and left through the short roof on teeny grips. | 4m | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills Lyttelton Rock Mr Clean Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Dr Strangelove
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | 14m, 6 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
32 | The Annihilator
Very short boulder with bad slopers and flexible moves FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | 9m, 1 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills The Nettlebed | |||||
31 | Red Admiral
FA: Zac Orme Set: Matt Evrard | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills Waterfall Crag | |||||
V10 | Traverse Right to Left (No Glue)
Start as for Arachnophobia, then commence traversing left to top out as for End of the Rainbow. This line is an eliminate and excludes all holds "made out of glue". Interesting distinction, and likely subject to change as the cave evolves. The line stays low, underneath the steepest parts of the wall. | ||||
V10 | ★ Sasquatch
Start near the centre of the cave with LH gaston and RH undercling. Make a hard pull on and slap LH to sloper. Latch RH crimp then throw to a good edge. From here, grab the good ball hold then climb straight up the face on good holds. Finish to the right on the bucket. FA: Derek Thatcher | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula The Altar | |||||
31 | ★ False Idol
Starts on pocket and sidepull right of the corner to the right of McChurch. Surmount the roof using cruxy underclings. Set: Derek Thatcher & James Gunn FA: Pete, 2014 | 10m, 5 | |||
32 | Charismania
Climb up to roof right of 'The Alter Boy' to a nails compression boulder problem. Bust out right to hit the awesome jug on the lip. Finish on Kneel to the Pope anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2015 | 10m, 6 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Spittle Hill Map 11 Cyclops Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★ When Animals Attack
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Spittle Hill Map 23 Scoop Doggy Dog | |||||
V10 | ★ Scoop Doggy Dog
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Spittle Hill Map 29 Mushroom Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★ House of Pain
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 2 Omertà & Remorse | |||||
V10 | ★ Everthing's Gone Green
| 4m | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 3 Dreamhouse Traverse | |||||
V10 | ★ Infinite Jest
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V10 | ★ Ignition
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 7 Heisenburg Gully | |||||
V10 | Anthrax Crouch
Jerry-start | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 10 Ode TJ & High Rise | |||||
V10 | ★ Apocalypse
FA: seb Loewensteijn | ||||
V10 | ★★★ 3 SS
Radical Dyno. Cautious: Fatal risk | ||||
V10 | ★ Faster Kill Pussy Cat
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 15 Central Lake South | |||||
V10 | ★★ Minnesota Fats
Caution: Fatal risk. | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 24 Magic Peach and Ice | |||||
V10 | ★★ Leviathan
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 28 Caffeine Wall | |||||
V10 | ★ Piccalo
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 30 Project Wall | |||||
V10 | Prototype
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Map 33 Headlights Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★ Good and Evil
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V10 | ★★ Crash & Burn
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Quantum Map1 Area | |||||
V10 | ★ Everything's Gone Green
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V10 | Infinite Jest
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V10 | Ignition
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Quantum Map5 Area Ode to Joy Boulder Area (Map 5) | |||||
V10 | Biohazard SS
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V10 | ★ Apocalypse
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Quantum Map9 Area | |||||
V10 | ★ Rumplestiltskin
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Quantum Map 10 Area | |||||
V10 | ★★ Leviathan
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Quantum Field Quantum Map 16 Area | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Crash and Burn
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Dark Castle | |||||
32 | Angel of Pain
Set: Eric Talamadge FA: Eric Talamadge, 1991 | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Wuthering Heights The Thin White Line | |||||
V10 | Boss Tanaka
Crouch start | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Wuthering Heights Ancient Arts Boulders | |||||
V10 | Ancient Arts Arete
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Wuthering Heights Buffalo Bill Area | |||||
V10 | Annie Oakley SS
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Waitaha / Canterbury Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin Flock Hill Dinosaur Face Field | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Interstellar Overdrive
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