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Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,935 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Kerikeri Landing
19 (Courtois & Courtois)
Unknown
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The West Ridge
20 Force 10

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1994

Trad 35m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The North Face
19 Akuna Manta

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

FA: Richard Dale & Paul Hersey, 1995

Trad 45m
20 Green Eggs and Ham
1 15
2 18
3 18
4 20
5 17
6 14
  1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

  2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

  3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

  4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

  5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

  6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

FA: Paul Hersey & Hugh Nicholson, 1993

Mixed trad 110m, 6, 5
20 Winge-En-Yank

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

FA: Simon Courtois & Wendy Courtois, 1994

Trad 35m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Top Rocks
20 Living On A Razor Edge

FA: Paul Hersey, 1996

Sport 8m, 2
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Main Crag
19 Waves Of Motion

FFA: Paul Hersey, 1996

Sport 9m, 2
19 Sticky's Web

FA: Richard Dale & Paul Hersey, 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 3
19 That'll Do

FA: Chris North & Guy White, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Pukepohatu/ Bald Rock Northeast Slabs
20 Dissection Variation

FA: Alan Hill & Bernie Massey, 1991

Trad 20m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Pukepohatu/ Bald Rock South Buttress
20 AID:A1 South Face Route

FA: Alan Hill & Bernie Massey, 1991

Aid 40m
20 The Crack

FA: Alan Hill & Bernie Massey, 1991

Trad 25m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Caves Closed Arena Walls
19 Colluden
Unknown 12m
20 Can I Play With Madness
Unknown 20m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Waro Reserve Main Crag
20 Fits 'n' Tannies Unknown 18m
19 Famous Five Go Bolting Unknown 18m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ōhakiri - St. Paul’s Rock Pebble
V1 Spider Crawl

Sit start in the right hand roof, pull though onto the face and traverse to the left stay low though the harder part and straight out up to the finish.

FA: Adam H, 7 Dec 2020

Boulder 6m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Pump House Wall
19 Potarta Traverse

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with TBD.

Trad 10m
20 Gorsing Around

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

FA: Robert Scott, 2015

Sport 10m, 4
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Lakeside Wall
19 Liang Fen Liangfen

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

FA: Owen Lee, 4 Jan 2019

Trad 12m
19 Peanut Butter Jam

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

FA: Owen Lee & Gregor Kolbe, Feb 2016

Trad 10m
20 His

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, 13 Apr 2018

Mixed trad 12m, 2
19 Blood Sweat and Sunblock

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Sport 10m, 4
20 Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Sport 11m, 6
19 Level Three

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

FA: Thibaut, 24 Mar 2020

Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020

Sport 11m, 5
19 Rock Climb This You Bastards

Bare walls make bridging a necessity without mixed tools. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

FA: Owen Lee, May 2016

Sport 12m, 6
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side
20 Brain Damage

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

FA: Len Gillman, 1977

Trad 7m
19 Tears For Fears

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

Trad 14m
20 Shitbox Klingons

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1985

Trad 15m
20 Kamikaze Krack

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1985

Trad 15m
19 Koruba

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Mixed trad 14m, 3
19 Momrath

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Trad 14m
19 Samarcand

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards and right from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above, or up and left to the anchor above Load It For Me.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

Trad 9m
19 Kaloo Kalay

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

Trad 16m
19 Bandersnatch

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour or Silver Surfer / Orangutang from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Trad 11m
19 Orangutang

Hard start direct into the groove (the ledge on the right is out). Climb the crack to the hanging block then exit left to the anchor above Silver Surfer. Alternately, move right and up the top groove and bulge of Badfinger.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

Trad 12m
20 Night Of The Crabs

Climb the right-hand arete of Orangutang without using the cracks on either side.

FA: Hunter Johnson, 1989

Trad 12m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 1
V1 Whale Dork

Jump t prow and mantle out

Boulder
V1 Liken Slap'n
Boulder
V1 Brain Damage
Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 7
V1 Short Black Decaf
Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 8
V1 Booty Pain
Boulder
V1 Crazy Booty Frog
Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 9
V1 Orang-utan
Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Shady Tree Area
V1 Latte
Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Whinging Wall
19 Boggart

The strenuous left-leaning layback crack. The start is somewhat easier than it once was with the raising of the ground level, but beware the slippery footholds.

Trad 10m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Coliseum and Wee Corner
V1 Unnamed

Sit Start

Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Zoo Area A Dog Boulder
V1 A Dog

FA: Ketzal Sterling, 2010

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Zoo Area The Tiger Boulder
V1 The Sloth
Boulder 2m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Zoo Area Fat Lip Boulder
V1 Fat Lip

Sit start and mantle.

Boulder 1m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Total Damage Area Garlic Clove Boulder
V1 When Tradsters Go Bouldering

Sit start foot jam, then jam or layback your way up the crack.

FA: Thibaut, 7 Mar 2021

Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Stead's Nugget
V1 It's All Balance Baby

FA: Ant Stead, 2010

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Middle Earth Whale Boulder
V1 Crackly

FA: Ant Stead, 2010

Boulder
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Thumb Ridge Thumb Boulder
V1 The Cross

FA: Ketzal Sterling, 2010

Boulder 3m
V1 A Kind of Cake

FA: Stu Kurth, 2010

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Track side Boulders
V1 Tuskan Raider
Boulder 2m
V1 Sandel
Boulder 2m
V1 Carbon Scoring
Boulder 2m
V1 Point Break
Boulder 2m
V1 Ali's Traverse

FA: Ali Vaughan, 2019

Boulder 2m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Loan Boulders
V1 Bunched

Sit start bunched up on jugs.

FA: Richard Flinn, Dec 2019

Boulder 2m
V1 Round Arête

Sit/stand as low as you can and move up the arête.

FA: Daniel Scott, Dec 2019

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Matakana Boulder
V1 JAFFA's Weekend Getaway

Stand start the obvious right hand jug and left hand crimp with a high heel and foot. Rock over and exit right up the dull arête.

FA: Daniel Scott, Nov 2019

Boulder 4m
V1 Right Slab

Pinch the two slopers and work your way up.

FA: Richard Flinn, Nov 2019

Boulder 4m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Maungarei Springs Boulder
V1 Maungarei Springs

Aptly named after Auckland's outdoor gym. Climb the layback crack with your feet on the left hand side boulder.

FA: Daniel Scott, Nov 2019

Boulder 4m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Lulu Boulder
V1 Lulu Traverse

Sit start and climb up the arête then traverse along the jug rail and exit next to Lulu Lads.

FA: Richard Flinn, Nov 2019

Boulder 4m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Top Boulder
V1 Exposure

Climb the slopey arête. Don't fall.

FA: Daniel Scott, Nov 2019

Boulder 4m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Preamble
19 To the Max

An unusual looking groove with bolts on the right wall. Scramble to the ledge at the base of the groove then climb up the groove, which is steeper than it looks and at the 4th bolt step onto the wall. Continue up past 5th bolt to tree belay.

For an easier option, climb just left of the last two bolts at about grade 17

FA: Graeme Dingle & Jo-anne Wilkinson, 2005

Sport 15m, 5
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Arch
19/20 Devil of Delhi

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

FA: Christian Gamst, 17 Feb 2019

Sport 20m, 6
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Amphitheatre
19 C.J.D Arete

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Kaaren Cordukes, 1996

Sport 20m, 5
19 Queen of hearts

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

Mixed trad 30m, 6
20/21 Mismatch

Start as per 'J.E.M' then veer slightly right after the 2nd bolt. Technical climbing straight up the face leads to a tricky finish.

Set: Shaun Brown, Nov 2020

FA: Shaun Brown, 27 Nov 2020

Sport 23m, 8
20 Fearless Freddie

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Neil Withers, 2000

Sport 15m, 3
20 I Hear The Devil Calling Me

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

FA: Mark Bodt & Marcus Thomas, 1991

Sport 15m, 3
20 Smilla's Feeling

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 2000

Sport 15m, 3
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Sam Bullock Wall
20 Richard

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

FA: Derek Watts, 2003

Sport 20m, 5
20 Puffin

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

FA: Derek Watts & Ken Harcombe

Trad 19m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Whiskey Delta Area
19 Ariaan Makarena

To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Dillon Vickery, 1996

Sport 10m, 2
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Northern Boulders Main Boulder
V1 Rock Trippin'

Sit start in the middle of the face using the variety of holds on offer then head right and over the bulge.

FA: Melissa Valnegri, Dec 2018

Boulder 3m
V1 Slap Me, Hard

Multiple variant betas for this line, the tall man, the delicate & precise and the wrong beta you chose.

FA: Andrea Ruggieri, Dec 2018

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side Main wall
V1 Aquarius

Climb the face only, arete is out. Crimp at half height near the arete is in. Alternative Baldwin, Sit start with left hand on side pull in crack and right hand in pocket. Stand up to large slopey crack, match top jug on right to finish.

Boulder 3m
V1 Bevy

sit-start using left under-cling and right sloper.

FA: Alex Gangalof, 11 Oct 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 Wesley

Sit start pull to the top cracks either side are out

Boulder 3m
V1 Kings to Garage Traverse

Staring from the blocky ground right of Burch St Fairy traverse left to the blocky ground left of Angry red dwarf. Big rocks touching the ground are in for feet.

Boulder 30m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave King's Wall
V1 The King's line

Caution - lots of loose rock. Be careful Sit start, feet on 1 and 2. left hand on 3 right hand on sloper crimp 4. Only use lower part of 5 side pull. Finish on 6.

Boulder 3m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave The Plaque Side
V1 Amandale

Stand start on obvious edges climbing up to match top. Slab to the right is out.

Boulder 4m
V1 Level Three

Use the slab face and arete only to gain the top

Boulder 4m
V1 Level Four

Use the slab and face only to gain the top, arete and crack are out. Helps to be tall.

Boulder 4m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Buck Rock Main Cliff
19 Demons of Bosh
1 19 30m
2 15 30m

FA: Kevin Barrat, Richard Knott & Cliff Ellery, 2006

Sport 60m, 2, 15
20 Climba Sutra

FA: Brian Mercer & Cliff Ellery, 2010

Sport 25m, 8
19 Au Revoir

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2005

Sport 25m, 6
19 Bring Back Buck
1 19 25m
2 19 20m

P1: Start on 'Première', then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts and climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Brian Mercer, Dylan Ball & Rachel Mayne, 2009

Sport 45m, 2, 14
20 Pass the Buck
1 20 25m
2 20 25m
3 18 30m

Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux in the first pitch with some quality bridging.

The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

The top pitch is truly an alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

FA: Cliff Ellery, Brian Mercer, Dylan Ball & Rachel Mayne, 2010

Sport 80m, 3, 24
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Buck Rock Summit Crag
19 The Earl of Buckingham

FA: Cliff Ellery, Mark Ashurst & Brian Mercer, 2011

Sport 15m, 7
20 Renee

FA: Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson

Sport 12m, 5
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Pipeline Walls
20 Ten Dollar Groove

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

FA: Pete Jemmett & Robbie McBirney, 1971

FFA: G Beisly, 1999

Trad 25m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Skyline Buttress
20 The Green Dragon

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past a bolt through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall and on to the belay ledge above.

FA: P Beisly, 2008

Mixed trad 35m, 1
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge China Wall
20 Pokinatcha

Scramble up as for shadowfax to where that climb traverses right. Clip the bolt and climb on small holds directly to the break above (crux). Continue on good holds and interesting rock to the belay ledge and bolts.

FA: G Beisly, 2003

Sport 22m, 6
19 That Summer

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

FA: J Pawson & J Goulstone, 1984

Sport 20m
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto The Twister Buttress
20 Twister

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

Sport 25m, 11

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,935 routes.

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