Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Prominent roof boulder over the Takaka river. The roof is like honeycomb Every time you climb it you find a new sequence! Loads of people have made it across the roof, but it is rare that someone makes the difficult move pulling over the lip. This is what gives it its V5/6 rating. Legend has it that the first ascent was done by a dude on acid listening to a walkman!

Start from the down stream corner of the big ledge. The first move is a bit tricky with wet consequences if you fall. The next 20m is juggy pulls.Stay low and you will make it to " The cave". Its pretty chill until the cave. From here the hard stuff starts. Swing round the corner and continue traversing on pockets until they till stop. The last moves are gnarly.

Shares the first 3 bolts of Why? Then goes directly up the headwall. Perma-draws to lower off at the top.

Start at the extreme left side of the cave and commence traversing right on jugs. At the 4th bolt, head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave. Significantly harder after losing a crucial jug.

Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right on jugs to join Rubble at the 5th bolt. As for Rubble, there is no anchor so just jump off.

The line of bolts immediately to the left of Gorilla Grip. Ascend to a distinct crux above the 3rd bolt, then continue up to top out through a slot left of the bolt line. Jump off.

Climb Gorilla Grip to its 5th bolt then break left across the obvious rail to join the top of Rubble.

Cave classic and always climbed on. Most people's first climb here. Start up the short slab and continue straight up to the chains over the lip of the cave. Most people jump off the top instead of clipping the chains to avoid destroying their rope.

Start up the line of bolts to the right of Kaz's. Climb up to a dyno and then traverse into the pigeon pod of Ride of the Valkyries. Finish here on a single bolt.

Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start.

Go halfway up Bolts and break right above the big blob. Some long moves lead you to the Attack Mode anchor.

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to the good holds between bolts 4 and 5 of Let There Be Bolts. From here, go back right to the Attack Mode anchor.

Start as for Attack Mode. After the initial boulder problem, angle right and climb straight through the roof.

Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left to the Attack Mode anchor.

The rightmost route on the Great Wall. Scramble up to the ledge with bulbous features and very chossy rock to clip first two bolts. From here, blast through the overhang with bouldery sequences and improving rock quality to an anchor over the lip.

Start on the pillar between Gorgon and 50/50. Climb past a thin section past 3 bolts, then link into the top of Gorgon.

Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off.

Start left of the capped corner directly under the roof. Surmount this on small crimps, then move slightly right after the third bolt, then back left again. Finish up the obvious white groove.

Start left hand on rail and right hand on lower sloper. Dynamic move to V-groove sloper and up arete.

A bolted boulder problem that climbs through the roof left of Footloose. A stout sequence right off the deck leads to good holds. Traverse into Footloose past the 3rd bolt.

Powerful moves through the roof left of The Big C.

Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE.

Start as for Tropical Storm, but at its third bolt, hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof to join Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt.

Starts about 1.5 metres to the right of Real Slim Shady. Somehow surmount the roof on minuscule holds, then link into RSS past the third bolt. Take care with the death blocks at the top.

A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route.

Climb Peak Plonkers to the third bolt, then traverse hard right, clipping the bolt beneath the roof, to link with Hushpuppy below its final bolt. Hard if you stay below the roof on the traverse, easier if you traverse higher.

Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts

Climb Great White to the last bolt, then traverse left to link into the top of Silence of the Wombats for its last bolt. Really just a variant finish, but fun nonetheless.

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors

Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though.

Start up Reincarnation to 1st bolt and then traverse across right on the "fangs" to the arête. The route finishes there but can be linked into Hang on Man.

A boulder problem with dynamic movement under the first roof leads into a harder than expected corner. Turn the second roof and ascend the lichenous head wall to the anchors.

Start beneath the overhang left of Dark Lands. Climb up and right, then angle out left until you can span between the crack and the blunt arête on the right. At the old carriage bolt, move slightly right and ascend on glued crimps.

Stand start on teeny tiny holds and a heel on the mega jug. Apply some zest and finish up less challenging terrain.

Stand start on the jug and fight the increasing difficulty all the way up to the lip.

Sit start as for 'Always Crashing in the Same Car' traverse along the lip but exist lower and later, after some spicy moves finish as for 'Halfling'

Sit start on the jug below the roof and move up via pinches and crimps.

Stand start left of Summer Moon with LH on slopey sidepull dish, RH low on the half moon crimp of Summer Moon. Slap RH to sloper at head height then launch to lip. Sit start is possible but will be hard.

Originally graded 25, sources now say this line is 27. Regardless of the grade, it climbs good quality stone up an arête to a ledge rest, then a thin slab headwall crux. Quite nice!

Starts just left of Leaning Wall, on big holds to the first bolt. A fierce crux presents itself immediately off of the ledge, then eases to a juggy ramble. Join Leaning Wall above the last bolt.

Climbs the corner just above the track, immediately left of Dr Strangelove. Originally attacked the corner directly, but broken holds necessitate traversing in from the left. 2 bolts and gear for the cracks above.

The line of 4 bolts immediately right of the Scratching Julius crack. Boulder up to the top of the shield feature, where you will find consistently engaging climbing all the way to the anchors, on some of the best rock in the Port Hills. This route is safely bolted, but prepare for air time if you come off!

Start just right of Citizen Kane at the obvious fridge feature. Yes, it is possible to climb into the corner right of the bolt line for 24 points, but the better option is to take the direct line up the fridge, as intended. Some creative beta leads to better holds above the second bolt, to an easier but pumpy finish.

The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Numerous variations exist.

Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25.

Gymnastic and steep moves almost directly out the wall, going slightly left to finish at top of Gone Bimbo. Good edges if a bit sharp, and plenty of bolts!

Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease. At the second bolt, instead of breaking out left, continue straight up over the roof and into a right facing corner. Surmount another roof to reach easy ground and the anchor.

Climb Mega Pump but instead of going straight up at the left end of the Gone Bimbo traverse, continue left to link into Layer Cake.

An easier variant start to 'Creatures of Power' Start in the corner right of the aforementioned route and boulder your way up through 3 bolts and turn the lip off the roof. From here, join 'CoP' and finish as for that route. NB This is not the route's original name, which appears to have been lost to time.

Climb the crux of Bridging Over Lyttelton, then at the second bolt above the roof, head left to pass the final two bolts of Location… and finish as for that route. More sustained than the original, with a sting in the tail!

Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes.

Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes.

Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes.

The choice line of the cave. Start near the far left side of the overhang. Powerful moves right off the deck set the tone for a gymnastic and surprisingly technical route. Finish up the lichenous face after surmounting the last of several roofs.

Destroyed during earthquakes.