Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Eugene Sloper Corridor | |||||
V5 | ★ Secret Rules Of Engagement
Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
V4/5 | ★★ Wowan Krab Dancing
Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete. FA: Maggie Lin & Sean Huang, 26 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves The Bubba Sector | |||||
V4 | Bubba
Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Bonzo's Montreaux
SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves The Backside Trail | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Freak of Nature
Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Top Rocks | |||||
AU:24 | ★ Rise and shine
Direct LH boulder start to Sunshine Daydream - joins original at the scoop FA: RobScot, 19 Feb 2020 | ||||
AU:24 | Bro Cracked It Bro
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Main Crag | |||||
AU:24 | ★ I Don't Want A Job
FFA: Paul Hersey, 1996 | 9m, 1 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive The Island | |||||
V5 | ★★ Mosquito Monkeys RH start
Easier RH sit start using crack and edge on RH side of arete for first move | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Mangawhai Heads | |||||
V4 | ★ Stream of the Stingray
Up obvious seam in middle FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Forest Cliff | |||||
V4 | ★★ High Heels
Stand start. Match on the large flat hold. Head left to top out at the horn. FA: Leon Rudman | 2m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Compaction Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Fling Thing
Start matched on the large feature in the middle of the face. Throw a big move for the arête then use high right hand holds to top out at the peak. FA: Aug 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Compaction
Right hand on the bad sloper out on the face, left on the knob. Throw the heal up then work hands up holds to a position to mantle. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 2m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Rusty Bucket Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Rusty Bucket
Right hand under cling left hand pinch. Head up on the left arete and then right on the slopey rounded holds. FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
V4 | ★ Andy's Problem
Match on the edge in the middle of the face and throw to the smooth jug. FA: Nov 2020 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Flash Gordan Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Flash Gordan
Sit start matched low in the crack. Throw up to a pinch then traverse left along a nice series of crimps. FA: Will Watterson | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Gully Sun's Out Guns Out Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ I, the Slabmaster
Stand start with right hand on the gutter side, left hand on small crimp, climb the rail to the top. FA: Ashkan FA: Jan 2021 | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Gully Butterfly Creek Boulder | |||||
V4 | Butterfly Creek
Start with two good handholds while your right foot is towards the creek and go to the left. RISK of falling into the creek. FA: Leon Rudman | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Gully Into the Abyss Boulder | |||||
V5 | Into the Abyss
Match start on right sloper. Head left along the slopey ridges to reach the jug and top out. FA: Samuel Blok | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Yard Hornet Nest Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hornet Nest
Match on the obvious jug. Head straight up to higher holds and top out. FA: Samuel Blok | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Kicking the Hornet Nest
Start far along the left side. Traverse along the crack to the start jug and finish with Hornet Nest from there. FA: Leon Rudman | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Sleepy Hollow Thop | |||||
V5 | Thop
Match start on the good ridge and dyno the triangle on the top and find a way to rock over. There are two good holds for the right and left feet. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 2m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Sleepy Hollow Pyramid | |||||
V4 | Sunsleeper
Stand start with a pointy crimp and a rounded rail. Move left to the slopers and then to the large pocket jug. Top out to the right of the peak. FA: Kristov Sokratov | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders East Bank | |||||
V5 | Big Kahuna
start by matching on the crack and continue climbing until you need to make a big reach with your left hand into the crack to find a good jug, then use other jugs to finish the climb. FA: Leon Rudman | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Jungle | |||||
V5 | Dark Knight
Sit start with the left on a bad pinch and the right low on the arete. Climb the black featureless arete to better holds. Highball FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Watchtower Boulder | |||||
V4 | The Thief Direct
Head straight up from the same start as The Thief. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Pump House Wall | |||||
AU:24 | ★★ The Potarta
Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on. Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off. FA: Steven McInally, 2009 | 10m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Right of the Fence Wall | |||||
AU:25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct
Hard bouldery start up the scoop to a no hands rest at mid-height. Then some balancy moves direct up the face to finish (stay off the right arete for full value). Set: Christian Gamst, Apr 2018 FA: Leon Laubscher, 7 Feb 2021 | 9m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Lakeside Wall | |||||
AU:24 | ★ HOLE-19
The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value. Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020 FA: Leon Laubscher, 14 Nov 2020 | 10m, 4 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime
Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack. FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Greirson & Owen Lee, May 2016 | 11m, 3 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie
Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet FA: Andrew Morozov, 15 Nov 2019 | 10m, 5 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Hers
Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His". FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, 13 Nov 2018 | 12m | |||
AU:25 | ★ Dodor
Scramble up onto the ledge. Navigate straight up the face. slight left of bulge goes at 25, right of the bulge 26 Set: Chris Lacoste, 24 Mar 2020 FA: Travis Rangi, 26 Jun 2020 | 12m, 4 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Lust For Life
Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 15 Dec 2018 | 10m, 2 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Upper tier boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Dark Magician
Start on the crimps and make your way to the top, stay close to the centre crack for full value.Take care on the fall zone. Down climb on the right. FA: Travis Rangi | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side | |||||
AU:24 | Dekcuf
The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram. FA: Bryce Martin, 1977 | 10m | |||
AU:24 | ★ The Raven
The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some. FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977 | 10m | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Desolation Angel
The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect. FA: Bryce Martin, 1977 | 10m | |||
AU:25 | Hear No Evil
After the start of Morning Glory Eliminate, move left across the ear-shaped slab with 2 bolts. FA: Alex Palman, 1989 | 11m, 2 | |||
AU:25 | Morning Glory Eliminate
The original Morning Glory buttress was demolished by the school when it began to separate from the face, leaving this and the next four routes mere shadows of their former selves. Climb the steep groove and thin crack. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986 | 14m | |||
AU:24 | Effort, Money And Time
Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole. FA: Bolke Water, 1992 | 13m | |||
AU:25 | Thunderpussy
Just climb the buttress between Nutcracker and Green Groove Eliminate. FA: Peter Dickson, 1990 | 14m, 2 | |||
AU:24 | Wild Gravity
Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress. FA: Alex Palman, 1987 | 11m, 3 | |||
AU:25 | ★ Legs This Wide
The shallow bulging grooves to the right of Heat. Take small wires. FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983 | 15m, 2 | |||
AU:24 | Wired
Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove. FA: Rick McGregor, 1981 | 15m | |||
AU:25 | Roo Squeaks
The direct finish to Gothic Groove. FA: Alex Palman, 1987 | 16m | |||
AU:25 | Rebuilding Oscar
From the Silver Airman ledge, climb the right-hand buttress. The two bolts were retrospectively placed. FA: Ton Sneider, 1986 | 16m, 2 | |||
AU:25 | ★★ Smash And Grab
The overhung groove above the right-hand start of Silver Airman. Climb past a bolt, move right at the top. FA: Rick McGregor, 1983 | 14m, 1 | |||
AU:24 | ★ Sheerlux
Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above. FA: Rick McGregor, 1979 | 14m | |||
AU:24 | ★★★ Porkland
Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 14m, 1 | |||
AU:25 | Maisola Party
Follow the thin crack left of Momrath via a small peapod to the top of the block. FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 14m | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Load It For Me
Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection. FA: Rick McGregor, 1980 | 17m | |||
AU:25 | ★ Ugly Murmurs
The left-hand short corner with overhanging groove and crack. FA: Rick McGregor, 1980 | 9m | |||
AU:24 | Shoes This High
Climb the corner to the left hand edge of the ledge, then up the buttress above, moving left at the top. FA: Rick McGregor, 1983 | 13m | |||
AU:25 | Suspended Animation
Absolutely silly. Climb the arete only, between Stem The Evil Tide and Kaloo Kalay. FA: Alex Palman, 1988 | 16m, 2 | |||
AU:24 | Picture This
Climb the corner to broken ledges, with poor protection. Continue up the corner above to the ledges, exiting left or right. FA: Rick McGregor, 1982 | ||||
AU:25 | Training For Straining
The peaked arch right of Soliloquy. Climb the thin crack until you can step left to ledges on Soliloquy, move right again and continue up the crack to the top of the arch. FA: Rick McGregor, 1981 | 14m | |||
AU:24 | Jams O'Donnell
Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above. FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977 | 14m | |||
AU:25 | Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off
Up the twin corners to the black ledge. Abseil from the anchor at half-height or finish as for Jams O'Donnell or Melquiades. FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 9m | |||
AU:24 | ★ Melquiades
Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above. FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975 | 14m, 1 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ The Engineer Of Human Souls
The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too). FA: Luke Newnham, 1989 | 14m, 1 | |||
AU:25 | Busted Bicycle
| 14m, 1 | |||
AU:24 | Splatter
| 14m | |||
AU:25 | The Towering Inferno
| 14m, 1 | |||
AU:24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie
Climb the wall between Bad Behaviour and Bandersnatch, then right to the thin crack and hole. Move left after the 4th bolt and pull through the bulge, finishing up Bad Behaviour. Retrobolted. FA: Rick McGregor, 1983 | 14m, 4 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Chasing After Charlie Direct
Keep going straight up instead of moving left. Run out. FA: Ton Snelder, 1994 | 14m, 4 | |||
AU:24 | ★★ Spanish Moon
Levitate up the shallow corner and very thin crack right of Bandersnatch. Protection is tiny and hard to place. FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 11m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 1 | |||||
V4 | One Move Wonder
FA: James FM | ||||
V4 | Bop Gun
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 2 | |||||
V5 | Yuppie Floozie
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V4 | ★★ Supergroove
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V5 | Perrenial Pipe Dreams
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 3 | |||||
V4 | ★★ Grunta
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V4 | ★★ Boulevard Pèriphèrique
Campus. | ||||
V4 | ★ Drive Through Coffee
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V5 | Lego
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 4 | |||||
V4 | ★★ Heat
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 6 | |||||
V5 | Another Broken Hero
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V5 | Mumbles
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V5 | Zorns Lemma
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V4 | Shoes This High
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V5 | ★ Big Max
Right of arête, up to ledge, match to finish. V6 sit start, right of arête to ledge. V5 left of arête. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 7 | |||||
V5 | When the Cat's Away
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 8 | |||||
V4 | ★ Melquiades
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 9 | |||||
V5 | Pet Cemetery
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V4 | ★ Silver Surfer
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Coliseum and Wee Corner | |||||
V5 | ★★ Brown Arete
Up the arete/face. Left crack is in (no jamming), anything past the crack is out. Everything including the right hand crack and past is out. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Chunky Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Leon's Problem
Located left of The Good Life. Left hand on a good edge, right on a tiny slopey undercling. Throw for the jug. Crux is getting the foot on. FA: Leon Rudman, Oct 2019 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Toe It Out Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Toe It Out
Sit-start FA: Zane Bray, 2010 | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area The Salma Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Salma
Sit-start FA: Glenn Erik Johannessen, 2009 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Zoo Area Baboon Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Bonobo
Start matched on the small shelf and traverse left. Crux is to not dab. FA: Marco Lefebvre, Oct 2019 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Zoo Area The Tiger Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ The Caterpillar
Sit start | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter The Gulley Little Island Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Little O
Start as for Little Island but move the right hand up one hold on the arete as the start. For shorter climbers. FA: Leon Rudman, 6 Feb 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | Little Blue
Traverse left to right and finish as for Little Island. FA: Leon Rudman, 6 Feb 2020 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter B-Team Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Nimbus
Stand-start on the arete and crack. FA: Stu Kurth, 2004 | 4m | |||
V4 | Fumatron
FA: Stu Kirth, 2004 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter North Side Whispers Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Whisper
Standing start, slap up arete, mantle. Originally graded V3. FA: Michael Welson | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Thumb Ridge Thumb Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ The Anti Cross
Start as for The Cross and finish with Now Tell Me. FA: Leon Rudman, 6 Feb 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Leon's Traverse
Start with The Cross, traverse left and finish with Now Tell Me. FA: Leon Rudman, Dec 2019 | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Loan Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Pork Loin Lunch
Sit start on the arete via a heel hook and compression. FA: Daniel Scott, Dec 2019 | 3m |