Routes as sport in Waitaha / Canterbury

Start up ‘Weet-Bix Kids’ and at the third bolt head slightly rightwards and finish up the last two bolts of ‘Liposuction’ combining the two best bits of each route for a harder more sustained variation.

First route of the "modern" development of Britten. Deceptively steep wall just left of the cave. A nut or large wire can be used at the start climbing onto the protruding nose Straight up the wall to a good hold left of the third bolt, then rightward to the chains just above the lip on the right.

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.

On the left side of the pigeon cave. Follow four bolts up an ever steepening wall and across the top roof on better holds than you might expect. Use Mutilation's anchors

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

Start up U Haul to the first bolt, but move left to another bolt, then blast up the wall past two more bolts on improving holds. Can also be started by bouldering to the first bolt directly. Use the U-Haul anchors.

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

The left side of the arête. Start slightly left, moving right past the second bolt and then up. Five bolts and two anchor rings.

Lh Traverse. Starts as for Disco Logic and circles leftwards & up wards using top bolt of NN and going left across the top regions of Thorn Bird finishing at top of Mt Pleasant Butcher

The right-most route in the cave area. Start under the overhang on decent holds. A long reach to the glue reenforced holds then continue straight up to it’s own independent anchor.

Climb just right of the arete.

Start four metres right of the cave at the black streak. Single bolt anchor.

Just right of Mercy, starting up the black face.

Climb up the centre of the yellow face.

Hard start over the left of a small cave, following a faint crack.

Start at the lowest point of the slab, 2m left of the corner. Can share anchor with Bury the Brass, the 17 to the left, for sport climbing.

Swing rightward to gain the wall above the cave.

Start in the small cave and move left at the third bolt. Continue straight up through the overhang.

Same start as 10mm FMJ but continue straight up the wall.

Pull through the roof a metre right of Release The Wombats.

Narrow wall to the right of the small cave.

Starts from big sloping holds to a small pillar, finishing in the scoop. Finish straight up for a slightly harder variant.

Climb up a steepening orange wall just left of the arete.

Hard start on very small crimps to second bolt. Beautiful face climbing after that.

Start right of The Rocket, between the large corokia and the harakeke. Climb the techy face to beneath the roof, clip the bolt, and make a series of hard moves to get established on the slab. Run it out to the anchors.

Note: please be careful to avoid damaging the broadleaf trees and flax plants at the base of this route.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Start immediately to the right of the earthquake scar. A technical face leads to steeper terrain higher up.

Go left at the roof and continue up the groove. Rejoin the standard route higher up.

Climb the somewhat crumbly slab to the right of the roof.

The top of this climb extensively damaged during the earthquakes. It is possible to climb to the fifth/ sixth bolt then run it out across death choss blocks to the anchor of ‘ The Subterraneans’ but not this is not advisable.

No usable anchor at the top. One bolt with a washer, a nut but no hanger. Needs a lower off +/- another bolt.

No usable anchor at the top. One bolt with a washer, a nut but no hanger. Needs a lower off +/- another bolt.