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Te Waipounamu / The South Island |
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough |
Rarangi
Sport climbing location with 14 routes and potential for more. |
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough Rarangi |
Rarangi Crag
Sport climbing area with 9 short routes. |
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough Rarangi Rarangi Crag |
Western Side
Routes described from left to right. |
18
Crab Slab
Climb up the right arête with small smeary feet to a double glue in bolt anchor. |
14
Route 2
Climb the system of cracks and ledges to a double bolt chain anchor. Can easily be protected entirely with traditional gear or as somewhat runout sport route. |
17
★ Route 3
Challenging climbing up to the second bolt on small edges and shouldery underclings up to a double bolt ring anchor. |
17
★ Route 4
Climb the blank looking face on small hand and foot holds to an easier finish and a double bolt chain anchor. |
16
Route 5
An easier but tricky start right of ‘Route 4’. Climb the right arête and join ‘Route 4’ at the third bolt. |
13
Route 6
A trad route runs up the main crack line, you will need to build an anchor off boulders or trees. |
21
★ Unknown Sport Route #1
Climb the slightly overhanging arête moving rightwards to a series of pockets and edges. Double glue in bolt anchor. |
22
Route 8
Climb the very blank face on tiny holds. |
19
★ Route 7
This route starts 10m right of Route 6. Climb up to the ledge and move left over a small roof (crux), continue left to anchors. |
Eastern Side
Several undocumented trad lines with double bolt chain anchors before; |
14
Unknown Sport Route #2
The bolted route left of ‘Route 9’. Crimpy slabbing turns into jug hauling around the vague arête. Name, grade and FA unknown. Description and crag provisional until more information is gathered. |
14
Route 9
This can be found hidden in the trees directly opposite Rarangi wall. Climb the obvious line up and around the semi detached Blocks. Lower of the tree at the top or walk off. Not a highly rated route. |
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough Rarangi |
Closed Monkey Bay Crag
Area with three 20-25m sport routes, and a couple trad routes. |
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough Rarangi Closed Monkey Bay Crag |
15
Route 10
Start in corner crack then head left over chossy ground to the top. |
15
Route 11
Start as of route 10 in corner crack, but continue straight up the crack to the top. |
20
Unknown 1
The left most sport route of 3 in the Bay. Looks to be 19/20 ish in grade. May share the anchor with the middle line. |
18
★★ Unknown 2
Middle sport route on the largest wall in the bay. Very cool climbing. |
16
★ Unknown 3
right most sport route on the main wall, details need to be updated. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson |
Cobb Road
Something different from Payne's Ford, pack a lunch and be prepared for a steep hike to great climbing with even better views |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Cobb Road |
OSM Slabs |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Cobb Road OSM Slabs |
21
★★★ Narcissistic Tendencies
Left line. Sustained technical climbing on small hand holds and great feet. Excellent climbing |
19
★★ Pinkin Brownies
Middle Line. Share first two bolts with Narcissistic Tendencies. Two reachy balanacy crux's. Well bolted |
20
★★ Sensa Cunisiun
Right line. Get the thumb involved for a hard strenuous reachy start then relax up great slab climbing to another fingery easier crux. Well bolted but be aware two bolts as anchor but no repel rings. Climb left to top of Pinkin Brownies and clean off that. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Cobb Road |
Cosmosis Wall |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Cobb Road Cosmosis Wall |
18 ★★ Barely Legal |
19
★ In Flight Mag
Same start as Barely Legal, but go up the arête. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson |
Paynes Ford
Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford |
Closed North End
All climbs in this area have been CLOSED and bolts removed at the instigation of the Dept of Conservation for environmental reasons |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Closed North End |
10
Thelma
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
10
Louise
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Big Sharks At Night
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
25
Gangrene
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★ Terror, Illness and Rebellion
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
14
Zen Navigation
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Herbal Infusion
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★ Checkmate
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
23
★★ The Darling Buds Of May
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford |
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof |
16
★ Blobbet
The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive. |
17
★ Goodbye Cream-Poofters
Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it. |
25
★ Why Would You Wave to a One-Armed Man Riding a Bike?
Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top. |
16
★ Re-election Blues
In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left? |
15
★ Golden Years
Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain. |
14
★ Midwife Crisis
On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling. |
12
★ Calling All Hobbits
1 bolt up the right arete to chain. |
18
★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Blockbuster
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Bite My Chunk
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★ The Fearless Vampire Killers
Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well. |
15
★ Gorgonzola Goes
Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads. |
15
★ Cheddarmaster's
Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right. |
19
★ Hula Yula
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
24
★★ Spotty Brit
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Tongue In Groove
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Sweet Dreams
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
Wasp Factor
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Hunting Tartan
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Something Precious
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
V4
★ Easiest Out
Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back. |
V8
★★ Straight out
Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave. |
22
★★★ Rawhide
Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling. |
23
★★ Rumplestiltskin
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
24
★★ Golden Bay Connection
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
Serac Attack
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Further climbs to the right are listed under Rata Wall.
Further climbs to the right are listed under Rata Wall. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford |
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall
The Rata Wall starts to the right of the Rawhide roof. The Rat Trap Wall is the next wall further around the corner. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall |
Rata Wall |
22
Granulated Chicken Booster
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Humpty Dumpty
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★ All The Kings Horses
2nd pitch to Humpty Dumpty, can be done as 1 pitch. |
22
★ Woop, Woop Pull Up
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Last Call For Flight 911
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Bang Your Head
Pitch 2 of Last Call for Flight 911. |
22
Bob and Betty go Mating
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
The Rat Trap Wall
Continue around the corner and 5m to a ledge. |
21
★ Tales By Firelight
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Rat up a Drainpipe
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Bilbos Great Adventure
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★ No Rest For The Wicked
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
23
★ The Immaculate Deception
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford |
Stone Symposium Wall
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Stone Symposium Wall |
25
★ 7 Days a Week
Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side. |
19
★★ Spitfire
Climb up to the ledge, where Seafire starts. |
21
★★ Seafire
Extension to Spitfire, starting from the ledge. |
22
★★ Jericho
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★★ Temples Of Stone
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Space Invader
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
26
★ Sunday Picnic
Start between Space Invader and R for Ranger. Jugs eventually give way to an extremely blank bulge. The grade is for climbing the line direct; moving right at the crux gets you 24 points. |
21
★★★ R for Ranger, D for Danger
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Stone Symposium
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★ Stroking The Tiger
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Wazzo Jugs
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Autumn Leaf
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |