Routes in Te Waipounamu / The South Island for selected grade

Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top.

Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side.

Start between Space Invader and R for Ranger. Jugs eventually give way to an extremely blank bulge. The grade is for climbing the line direct; moving right at the crux gets you 24 points.

Straight up arete joining Daves. Super.

Hard technical start leads to great tufa climbing.

Prominent roof boulder over the Takaka river. The roof is like honeycomb Every time you climb it you find a new sequence! Loads of people have made it across the roof, but it is rare that someone makes the difficult move pulling over the lip. This is what gives it its V5/6 rating. Legend has it that the first ascent was done by a dude on acid listening to a walkman!

Start from the down stream corner of the big ledge. The first move is a bit tricky with wet consequences if you fall. The next 20m is juggy pulls.Stay low and you will make it to " The cave". Its pretty chill until the cave. From here the hard stuff starts. Swing round the corner and continue traversing on pockets until they till stop. The last moves are gnarly.

Shares the first 3 bolts of Why? Then goes directly up the headwall. Perma-draws to lower off at the top.

Head up for two bolts then trend right through the roof and up to the break. Anchor is above the lip and has perma-draws to lower off.

Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right past 3 bolts, then head straight up via big moves to reach the jug rail. Follow this right to the Super Glue anchors.

Start at the extreme left side of the cave and commence traversing right on jugs. At the 4th bolt, head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave. Significantly harder after losing a crucial jug.

The line of bolts immediately to the left of Gorilla Grip. Ascend to a distinct crux above the 3rd bolt, then continue up to top out through a slot left of the bolt line. Jump off.

Climb Gorilla Grip to its 5th bolt then break left across the obvious rail to join the top of Rubble.

Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start.

Start as for Attack Mode but instead of angling left to the pockets after the initial boulder problem, angle right to the Iceman anchor, skirting to the left side of the roof. May also be started from the right to avoid Attack Mode’s often wet start.

Start as for Attack Mode. After the initial boulder problem, angle right and climb straight through the roof.

Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left, skirting around the left side of the roof, to finish at the Iceman anchor.

The rightmost route on the Great Wall. Scramble up to the ledge with bulbous features and very chossy rock to clip first two bolts. From here, blast through the overhang with bouldery sequences and improving rock quality to an anchor over the lip.

Start on the pillar between Gorgon and 50/50. Climb past a thin section past 3 bolts, then link into the top of Gorgon.

Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off.

Start immediately right of Ground Zero, with a staple for the first bolt. Follow a line of FHs up a series of ledges to reach a hanging scoop. Surmount the morpho crux and continue easily to the Ground Zero anchor.

Start left of the capped corner directly under the roof. Surmount this on small crimps, then move slightly right after the third bolt, then back left again. Finish up the obvious white groove.

Left sit-start into top of Early Bird.

SS on the slopey lip with a good crimp rail for the right hand. Follow the runnel to the arete on slopers and small crimps.

Sit start with left hand on crimp (L-shaped hold) and right hand on the side pull in the small break/crack. Crimp hard and find the balance to reach up to one of the half-decent holds up high.

Small prow below Space Invaders. Start low on the wide pinch/crimp and rad undercling, one move to the top.

SS with left hand on the small slopper and right hand on the undercling. Use the good right foot and small edge for left foot, stand up and throw left hand up to the decent slopper. Easier finish moves to top out.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

A bolted boulder problem that climbs through the roof left of Footloose. A stout sequence right off the deck leads to good holds. Traverse into Footloose past the 3rd bolt.

Powerful moves through the roof left of The Big C.

Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor.

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

Start as for Tropical Storm, but at its third bolt, hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof to join Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt.

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth.

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route.

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts

Climb Great White to the last bolt, then traverse left to link into the top of Silence of the Wombats for its last bolt. Really just a variant finish, but fun nonetheless.

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors