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Summary

Castledowns is an 'out of the way' limestone crag located near Mossburn/Dipton. If passing through to Fiordland, it is defiantly worth a visit.

Description

Routes vary from long arete climbs to pocketed headwalls. The climbing style here is slightly hard, so bring an array of techniques. It is a common saying amongst southerners that a climb at Castledowns may be a 16 here, but would be graded an 18 in Wanaka. Generally, all climbs are fairly equipped. At the time of writing, new route development is happening and work is being done to repair anchors and bolts. Generally, all that is needed is a sport rack, though there is the odd climb that requires a nut.

Climbers have been visiting this crag since the early '70s, and in the 90s when the use of bolting became widespread the crag saw large amounts of development. The development has continued to happen with the likes of Andy MacFarlane, Jo Kippax, Ivan Vostinar, John and Ethan Dale, and John Grogan.

Access issues

Please be mindful of livestock that occasionally roams the area. Also, after a bit of rain, it is advised to bring a pair of gumboots or shoes you don't mind getting wet as the base of the cliffs can hold a bit of seepage.

Approach

Located between Dipton and Mossburn on the Dipton Castle Rock Road. Park at a pullout on the side of the road, you'll notice a small farm gate that will take you through the fence.

Where to stay

The Mossburn Pub is a great place to stay, have a bite to eat, and chat about climbing.

Did you know?

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Castledowns.

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