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Top Hat

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3
5

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Description

A beautiful part of Castledowns. Though the climbs are generally short, they are some of the most interesting lines at the crag.

Access issues inherited from Castledowns

Please be mindful of livestock that occasionally roams the area. Also, after a bit of rain, it is advised to bring a pair of gumboots or shoes you don't mind getting wet as the base of the cliffs can hold a bit of seepage.

Approach

From the second gate, a toilet is visible. From here a gully up and left will lead you to the base of ‘Royal Stool’. Climbing this will make reaching ‘Top Hat’ much easier. Short scramble from the anchors to the head of the gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

Technical smear test piece. Up the pockets to a steep slab. incorporating smears, small holds, and superb balancing moves.

Backside of ‘Top Hat’ starting beneath the archway. Crank hard on big holds to reach the top. Dynos are optional.

A beautiful climb of its grade. Incorporates a smeary bottom section which leads to lovely pockets.

Climb the pocketed wall to the rip. Top out by bridging and stemming off the rib.

From the second gate, a small buttress is visible up the gully to the left of the toilet. A nice wee line, which makes the ascent and descent from top hat much easier.

FA: John Dale

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