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Buck Rock

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Summary

Fantastic crag with easy access from Hamilton, Tauranga and Auckland. Good rock a mix of single and multipitch routes (up to 80m). Spectacular views over the Waikato and Kaimai Ranges.

Description

It's a bit of a walk up the hill, but it's well worth it. Long routes with stunning views out over the Waikato. A range of climbing from 16 to 26, single and multipitch, mostly sport with a few trad pitches.

For more information about Buck Rock, see the very well written PDF guide at Free Climb.

Wear a helmet. Most of the rock is solid, but there are some loose sections.

Access issues

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Approach

From Te Aroha, drive south down Te Aroha/Gordon road, ~2 km out of town turn left onto Waiorongomai road, at the end of the road (1km) is the carpark for the Te Aroha Mountain Gold Mining Walking Tracks. Buck Rock is a 40 minute walk up the hill. There is a long drop toilet near the start of the tracks.

From the carpark, head up the main track, through the footwear cleaning station. Turn left at the next intersection. Follow signs for High Level Pack Track, then straight through the intersection with the Piako Country Tramway. Soon after, take a left onto the Cadman track - this is the uppermost loop. Cadman track is also called High Level Pack Track on some maps. As you ascend Cadman track, on your left there is a coloured tag and a belt. This signals the start of a short climber's track towards the main cliff, which climbs steeply to an old miners tunnel. Follow the track to the left of the tunnel to go to the main wall.

To reach the summit crag stay on the Cadman Track for another 200 meters longer then head up another obvious steep track marked with orange triangles. Follow the track for a couple of minutes and take the steep track up to summit crag at the intersection (straight/left for south-east wall).

History

History timeline chart

In 2006 Kevin Barrett and Richard Knott visited Buck Rock and put up the 2 pitch line of “Demon of Bosch”. Kevin then returned with Stephen Barrett and added 3 more routes. Kevin continued to preach “to anyone that would listen” about how good this crag was and the enormous potential for new routes, but he failed to drum up any interest and when he moved down south development stopped.

In late 2009 Cliff Ellery returned to the crag and along with other local Hamilton climbers started to develop Buck Rock. As it turns out Kevin was right, the climbing is great, the rock quality is great, the outlook is fantastic and the potential for long single or multipitch climbs is enormous.

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Main Cliff cliff
27
614
41m
9

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Wed 23 Feb
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