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Description

The main cliff area with the most routes. The path leads up to Première and the routes are both to the right and left. Some good link up options exist by mixing up belay points and different climbs. There is quite a bit of loose rock around so helmets and caution advised, the crag is steep so take care on accessing routes and belaying.

Descent notes

Take care as you're descending because if you go off the wrong side of a belay you can end up hanging in mid air, perhaps clip a few lead bolts to stay on line (e.g. Pass the Buck).

History

History timeline chart

In 2006 Kevin Barrett and Richard Knott visited Buck Rock and put up the 2 pitch line of “Demon of Bosch”. Kevin then returned with Stephen Barrett and added 3 more routes. Kevin continued to preach “to anyone that would listen” about how good this crag was and the enormous potential for new routes, but he failed to drum up any interest and when he moved down south development stopped.

In late 2009 Cliff Ellery returned to the crag and along with other local Hamilton climbers started to develop Buck Rock. As it turns out Kevin was right, the climbing is great, the rock quality is great, the outlook is fantastic and the potential for long single or multi pitch climbs is enormous.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 16 10m
2 17 30m

Abseil ~45m down the line of Bolt Clinic.

FA: John Montgomery & Kelsey Montgomery, 1 Apr 2017

1 16 10m
2 17 30m
3 16 20m

3rd Pitch Trad

FA: Grant Pearson & Jeff Hall, 1987

1 24 20m
2 18 30m

FA: Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson, 19 Mar 2017

1 18 25m
2 17 30m

FA: Cliff Ellery Jess Dobson, Mar 2015

Warning Rock: Falling chunks

1 23 25m
2 22 30m

20m left of 'Demons of Bosh'

FA: Stefan Geissdoerfer & Cliff Ellery, 15 Feb 2014

1 19 30m
2 15 30m

FA: Kevin Barrat, Richard Knott & Cliff Ellery, 2006

1 22 30m
2 22 30m

FA: Brian Mercer, Apr 2012

FA: Brian Mercer & Cliff Ellery, 2010

FA: Cliff Ellery, 1 May 2016

FA: Stephen Barratt, 2005

FA: Cliff Ellery, Madeleine Van Den Braak & Dylan Ball, 2010

Start from Buckle's belay.

FA: Rich Morgan

Start from Buckle's belay.

FA: Daniel Kripper, Jun 2013

1 17 12m
2 23 17m
3 16 17m

FA: Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson 4 March 2018. & Jess Dobson, 4 Mar 2018

FA: Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, Wendy Martin & Jamie, 16 Jan 2012

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Brian Mercer, 4 Feb 2018

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2005

1 22 25m
2 21 25m

FA: Stephen Barratt, 2006

1 19 25m
2 19 20m

P1: Start on 'Première', then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts and climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Brian Mercer, Dylan Ball & Rachel Mayne, 2009

1 21 30m
2 23 20m

FA: Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson, 1 Feb 2016

1 20 25m
2 20 25m
3 18 30m

Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux in the first pitch with some quality bridging.

The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

The top pitch is truly an alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

FA: Cliff Ellery, Brian Mercer, Dylan Ball & Rachel Mayne, 2010

1 17 25m
2 21 10m

FA: Richard Knott & Stewart Hope, 2010

1 20 25m
2 21 25m
3 19 15m

FA: Cliff Ellery Richard Knot, Bryan Mercer & Mark Ashurst, 2011

1 21 30m
2 22 30m

FA: Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Bryan Mercer, Jan 2014

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Activity

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